Incredible Hulk. Greg Donaldson closed his description of the west face of the Incredible Hulk with the sentence, “So the summit is still waiting along with a thousand other possibilities.” (A.A.J., 1971, 17:2, p 353.) Note that this is no longer ...
In April 2011 I returned for a second visit to the Johns Hopkins glacier basin in the southern part of the Fairweather Range. In 2009 Guy McKinnon and I had been the first climbers to access the main glacier and had made two ascents. This time Vau...
Ama Dablam, Winter Attempt. Roger Massardier, the leader of this French expedition, broke both his legs very early in the climb while on moraine just above Base Camp and so there were only three members with no climbing Sherpas attempting an uncli...
P 19,580, Patrasi Himal. The Anglo-Welsh Expedition consisted of Edwin Hammond, leader, Dewi Jones, John Cheesmond, John Vincent, Dr. Ieuan Jones and me as deputy leader. We were to make an attempt on the main peak of the Patrasi Himal (21,742 fee...
New Peaks in the Atuel Valley. My primary goal was to collect local lore in the mountain valleys of southern Mendoza but I did have a chance to enter a district unvisted by climbers near the sources of the Arroyos (creeks) Malo and Blanco and east...
Chogolisa from the Northwest and Broad Peak. Our group, Louis Deuber, Swiss, Richard Franzl and Harald Navé, Austrians, and my wife Alice Zebrowski and I, Germans, left Rawalpindi on May 16 and proceeded to Concordia on the Baltoro Glacier. For ou...
California—Mt. Shasta: On 28th November 1953 a party which included Edgar Werner Hopf (30) and eight companions left Horse Camp intending to climb Mt. Shasta. They left the cabin at about 4:20 a.m. in 10- minute intervals and agreed to meet at Lak...
Three Swiss, Simon Anthamatten, Urs Stocker and Reiner Treppte, made the third ascent to the summit of the ca 1,350m Spanish Route, Impossible Star (Juan Aldeguer, Sergio Martinez, Jose Moreno, and Juan Thomas; May 1984) on the west face of 6,454m...
Bhagirathi II. Spaniards Carlos Dávila and Adolfo García climbed Bhagi- rathi II by the east face, arriving at the summit (6512 meters, 21,364 feet) on September 13.
Tupilak East, New Route. It was reported that in September, 1997, Kurt Albert, Stefan Glowacz and eight others put up a 700-meter route on the south face of Tupilak East (2264m) in the Tasermiut Fjord area of east Greenland. The 22-pitch route was...
PROTECTION PULLED, OFF ROUTEAlberta, Ha Ling Peak (formerly known as Chinaman's Peak)On July 6, two climbers set out on the Northeast Ridge of Ha Ling Peak (5.6/ 5.7). The climbers got off route on the third or fourth pitch, and discovered by the ...
Chako, first ascent. A 10-member Kanagawa Alpine Federation party, led by Tatsumine Makino (62), made the first ascent of Chako (6,704m), via the southwest ridge. The team approached via Nar Gaon and Phu Gaon, making their base camp on July 9 at 5...
Mount Blackburn—Second AscentLeon H. BlumerThe old ghost town of Chitina, Alaska, was invaded by our group of five climbers on May 17, 1958. That we all met on the appointed date was a masterpiece of personnel organization, considering that two of...
First Ascents in the Cascades. In September 1946 Charles Welsh, Jerry O’Neil and Fred Beckey camped in the alpine meadow at Washington Pass, with the bell-shaped N. Peak of Liberty Bell looming above. On the 27th, starting from a gully to the S.W....
Rock Protection in the 1980sWilliam Supple AS THE QUEST TO climb the “desperates” continues, modern-day climbers are continually searching for lighter and more versatile protection adequately to protect today’s hardest routes. It is now being prov...
Momhil Sar Attempt. The members of our Catalan expedition were Dr. Pep Cañellas, Albert Cornelias, Xavier Font, Dani Ramírez and I as leader. After arriving at the roadhead at Nagar, we took four days to Base Camp, established at 4450 meters on Ju...
Mount Mather. On March 29 Steve Hollenhorst and I climbed the northeast spur of Mount Mather (12,123 feet) in Denali National Park and Preserve. From a high camp on the Eldridge Glacier, we climbed mixed ice and snow.Alan Ewert
Stimson Bullitt 1919–2009Stim Bullitt, by his own admission, was born with a silver spoon in his mouth, and he spent the rest of his life trying to live it down. Being delivered to school in his mother’s Rolls Royce, he would lie on the floor and ...
The summer of 1998 was a productive one for new route activity in Rocky Mountain National Park. At least 20 new routes were established, three quarters for which I was responsible. I kicked the season off with Terry Murphy, finding a fine new line...
Alaska and the WarBradford WashburnIT is hard to believe that it was only two years ago today that webade farewell to the other members of the Mt. Hayes party in Fairbanks and started the first leg of our homeward trip by air to Edmonton. In past ...