Accident Reports ANAM
Leader Fall – Lost Tooth West Virginia, Summersville Lake, Long Wall

At 4 p.m. on April 8, Connor Damato (age 21) was attempting to lead Jesus Is My License Plate (5.10d), a sport route on Long Wall. This was Damato’s first outdoor roped climbing experience and his first day of lead climbing. He and his partner had...

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| Published 2016 | Author Connor Damato and R. Bryan Simon


Accident Reports ANAM
Thumb Amputated By Rope in Fall West Virginia, New River Gorge, Cotton Top

Just after 5 p.m. on May 12, a male climber (age 29) was attempting to lead Cottonmouth, a 5.10a sport climb at Cotton Top, a small crag on the north side of the New River Gorge. The climber moved quickly through he lower portion of the climb. Onc...

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| Published 2016 | Author R. Bryan Simon


Accident Reports ANAM
Exposure, Hypothermia Washington, Mt.Rainier, Gibraltar Ledges

About 10 p.m. on March 26, people at Camp Muir notified rangers that two climbers had not returned from their summit bid and their gear was still in the shelter. At 9:30 a.m., Monique Richard, 41, could be heard yelling for help above Camp Muir.Af...

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| Published 2016 | Author Mt. Rainier National Park, media accounts and The Editors


Accident Reports ANAM
Strandings on Rainier – Weather, Altitude Sickness Washington, Mt. Rainier, Disappointment Cleaver and Emmons Glacier

In the first three weeks of the summer season on Rainier, rangers performed three helicopter rescues. The first was on June 10, after two climbers spent several unplanned nights on the summit after becoming disoriented. The second rescue was June ...

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| Published 2016 | Author Mt. Rainier National Park and The Editors


Accident Reports ANAM
Rappel Failure – Inadequate Knot Washington, Methow Valley, Goat Wall, Prime Rib of Goat

About 3:30 p.m. on May 3, Ryan Kautz, 26, was rigging a rappel off Prime Rib of Goat, a multi-pitch 5.9 bolted route, with new 70-meter, 9.5mm ropes. He and his two partners had seen a storm coming in and decided to descend after climbing eight of...

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| Published 2016 | Author Rock and Ice Magazine The Editors


Accident Reports ANAM
Rappel Error – Climbing Alone Utah, Zion National Park, Moonlight Buttress

On the afternoon of March 9, two climbers on the Moonlight Buttress route reported that someone had fallen from above them. Rangers investigated and located the body of a male at the base of the climb. This individual, Eric Klimt, 36, was wearing ...

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| Published 2016 | Author Ranger Andrew P. Fitzgerald, Zion National Park


Accident Reports ANAM
Anchor Failure – Poor Rock, No Backup Utah, Canyonlands National Park, Maze District

On May 25, Brent Blakenburg (30), Jason Bernard (36), Sean Finnegan (27), and Daniel Coldfelter (36) were camped near the Hans Flat Ranger Station in the Maze District of Canyonlands National Park. The Maze is well known for its remote location (a...

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| Published 2016 | Author Jason Bernard and The Editors


Accident Reports ANAM
Leader Fall on Ice – Ice Tool Puncture Wound Utah, Little Cottonwood Canyon, Snowbird

I was on Rookie Party in Pipeline Bowl, above the Snowbird ski resort, on October 23. This is a WI4 single-pitch ice climb at about 10,500 feet. Ice conditions weren’t great, but other than messing with my head, the conditions did not play a role ...

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| Published 2016 | Author Brett Verhoef


Accident Reports ANAM
Lowering Error – Rope Too Short, Failure to Close System Utah, Little Cottonwood Canyon, The Egg

Salt Lake County Search and Rescue got called out at 2:36 p.m. on October 2 for a 35-year-old male climber who had fallen 30 or 40 feet after climbing Leggo My Eggo, a 5.10a bolted face on the Egg. He was believed to have broken or sprained his an...

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| Published 2016 | Author Michael Finger, Salt Lake County SAR and The Editors


Accident Reports ANAM
Highball Bouldering Fall Utah, Big Cottonwood Canyon

A 30-year-old male had been bouldering with two other friends in an area near Lake Mary. The patient was attempting a hard and high new problem that he had previously top-roped a number of times. He fell from 20 to 30 feet, landed on his boulderin...

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| Published 2016 | Author Michael Finger


Accident Reports ANAM
Ground Fall – Inadequate Protection Tennessee, Chattanooga, Suck Creek Canyon

Late in the morning on November 20, Josh Benti (26) and Jordan Tidbal-Sciullo (26) met Drew Bailey (39) at the Suck Creek climbing area and decided to climb a 5.8 offwidth (name unknown). While racking up, Josh noticed that no one in the group had...

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| Published 2016 | Author Josh Benti and The Editors


Accident Reports ANAM
Rappel Error at Smith Rock Oregon, Smith Rock, Rope de Dope Block

On November 24, after climbing Immortal Beloved (5.9), a climber fell about 35 feet to the ground upon unclipping from the anchor. The climber sustained lower leg fractures. ANALYSIS The exact error involved in this incident is unknown. Based on t...

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| Published 2016 | Author Source: Deschutes County Sheriff’s Office Search and Rescue.


Accident Reports ANAM
Rappel Error – Uneven Ropes, No Stopper Knots Oregon, Smith Rock, Cocaine Gully

On November 21, a 31-year-old, moderately experienced climber had finished Deep Impact (5.10c), an 80-foot sport climb. She planned to rappel from the anchor. She established the rappel and started down, but 25 feet above the ground she rappelled ...

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| Published 2016 | Author Deschutes County Sheriff's Office Search and Rescue and the Editors


Accident Reports ANAM
Ground Fall – Inadequate Belay Oregon, Smith Rock, Morning Glory Wall

On November 12 at around 11 a.m., two experienced climbers were attempting Doritos (5.12c). One of the climbers (male, age 28) was leading the route when he fell off and the belayer (female, approximately 30) failed to arrest his fall. A witness o...

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| Published 2016 | Author Deschutes County Sheriff's Office Search and Rescue and Adam Lee


Accident Reports ANAM
Stranded in Mid-Air – Off-Route Rappel Oregon, Smith Rock, Monkey Face

On June 22, Cordero Chavez (29) and Tyler Coleman (age unknown) climbed the Monkey Face spire via the Pioneer Route (5.7 C0). Upon completion of the climb, the pair failed to identify the correct descent route. With their two ropes tied together, ...

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| Published 2016 | Author Deschutes County Sheriff's Office Search and Rescue


Accident Reports ANAM
Ground Fall in Smith Rock's Lower Gorge Oregon, Smith Rock, Lower Gorge

A 37-year-old climber was leading Blood Clot (5.10b) on March 19 when he fell from approximately 15 feet up while attempting to clip his second piece of protection. The climber landed on the ground on his side and fractured his arm. ANALYSIS Pulli...

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| Published 2016 | Author Deschutes County Sheriff's Office Search and Rescue


Accident Reports ANAM
Fatal Fall – Climbing Unroped Oregon, Mt. Washington

At around noon on June 30, Brian Robak (28) left Big Lake Youth Camp to attempt Mt. Washington (7,795 feet). Robak posted a social media photo confirming that he’d reached the summit at approximately 4:30 p.m. He was reported missing around 3 a.m....

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| Published 2016 | Author Deschutes County Sheriff's Office Search and Rescue


Accident Reports ANAM
Lost During Descent – Hypothermia, Frostbite Oregon, Mt. Hood, South Side Route

A party of four Seattle climbers left Timberline Lodge early Saturday morning, January 2, for a summit climb via the Wy'East Face. High winds, cold temperatures, and icy conditions slowed the ascent. The party summited at 3 p.m., and with superfic...

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| Published 2016 | Author Jeff Scheetz, Portland Mountain Rescue


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Snow – Inadequate Protection, Failure to Self-Arrest Oregon, Mt. Hood, South Side Route

On June 9 a party of two experienced climbers (ages 49 and 52) fell high on the South Side Route while descending the “Old Chute.” The roped pair was unable to arrest the fall. One of the climbers suffered facial lacerations and bruised ribs. He w...

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| Published 2016 | Author Jeff Scheetz, Portland Mountain Rescue


Accident Reports ANAM
Ground Fall – Protection Pulled Out North Carolina, Pilot Mountain, Veg-O-Matic

On September 17, a male climber, JC (23), took a ground fall that resulted in a medical evacuation. JC was leading Veg-O-Matic (5.7+ or 5.8), a one-pitch trad climb, when he fell approximately 40 feet to the ground. A climber on an adjacent climb ...

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| Published 2016 | Author Pilot Mountain State Park and Mountain Project and Aram Attarian