AVALANCHE, EUPHORIA FROM GOOD WEATHER AND PERFECT BACKCOUNTRY SKIING, NOT HEEDING INDICATIONS OF INSTABILITY, PARTY SEPARATEDColorado, San Juan MountainsFour of us from New England were skiing powder gullies and open trees below peak 12,311 in th...
On July 16, a male climber (22) fell as he descended from the top anchors on the sport route Plate Tectonics (5.9). After cleaning the top anchors, he descended on a double-rope rappel. Unfortunately, one end of his rope did not reach the ground. ...
Mount Columbia from the NorthCHRISTOPHER A. G. J ONESThis spring Toni Hiebeler was in Yosemite Valley with Fritz Wiessner, and knowing that an Alpinismus article on North American climbing would result, I was interested to hear what areas Hiebeler...
The Endless Summer ExpeditionA quest to lose oneself between Alaska and Antarctica.Alun HubbardIn 1999 Dave Hildes and I scraped our pennies together and bought a 47-foot steel ketch called Gambo, which, over the next four years—with the help of a...
Gasherbrum II and III. To mark the International Women’s Year the Polish Ladies Expedition was organized under the leadership of Mrs. Wanda Rutkiewicz. For safety reasons, a men’s team was added to the expedition with separate objectives. The foll...
Gangotri, Meru South, northeast face direct. At 4:30 p.m. on July 13 the sky finally opened for three Korean climbers standing at the top of the northeast face of Meru Peak (6,660m).Three instructors from the Extreme Riders Alpine Club, Kim Sejun ...
Hayes Group. Hayes, Deborah and Hess have received a good deal of attention in the past, but several unclimbed 12,000ers and many fine smaller peaks attracted Larry Muir, Tom Knott, my wife and myself to these mountains. Our approach was from Blac...
FALL ON ROCK AND FALLING OBJECT—LITTER California, TahquitzI went to Tahquitz on Sunday 12 June, ostensibly to help a friend practice aid climbing, but in reality to try to dissuade him from attempting the Regular Route of Half Dome as his first-e...
Central Mongolia, Ulaan Bataar, The Bombadorj Arête and The Lite Path. Our five-person team pioneered a 1,600’, 12-pitch route, which we believe is the hardest climb in remote Central Mongolia. My wife Heather Baer, Shawn Chartrand (our talented i...
Alpine Rock Climbs in CaliforniaGalen A. RowellPortions of this article appeared in Summit of May 1972THE east face of Keeler Needle was first climbed in 1960. For twelve years, attempts to repeat the route have failed. Not because of the intrinsi...
Antarctica: Both Heaven and Hell, Reinhold Messner. Translated by Jill Neate. The Mountaineers, Seattle. 1991. 375 pages. $35.00Some of the glory attached to Scott, Shackleton, Herzog and Shipton is owed to their unsung language teachers. In adven...
South Suru Group, Lingsarmo, southwest ridge. Kate Harris, Rebecca Haspel (both Canada), and I, as leader, formed an all-female, unsupported expedition that visited the Nun Kun Massif with the goal of climbing Lingsarmo (formerly known as Pinnacle...
Denali National Park and Preserve, Mountaineering Summary. For much of the past summer, as climbers approached the summit area of Mount McKinley, they were tragically reminded of the difficulties and dangers of the climb by the sight of two frozen...
Climbing fatalities in Nepal. Besides the seven deaths on Everest, two other climbers died last spring: American Jay Sieger and Ukrainian Vladislav Terzyul. They had gone to the top of Makalu together and were beginning their descent. Sieger appar...
A Survey of Andean Ascents Evelio Echevarría C.ADDENDA AND CORRIGENDA TO PART I, in AAJ 1962, and PART II, in AAJ 1963 ADDENDA COLOMBIAN ANDESCordillera Central59a. Nevado El Cisne, 5000 m. 16,404 ft. 1. A. Posada and other Colombians, 12.27.1957,...
An Open Letter to Managers of Peak Fees and Permits in the Greater Ranges.Your high peaks are beautiful, as are the people who live in their valleys. They attract visitors from all over the world, which is a source of pride for those who live in m...
St. Elias, Southwest Buttress, Second Ascent. The Tahoma-St. Elias Expedition was made up of Cy Perkins, Stewart Ferguson, Jim Price, Jim Witte and me. From research done during planning we thought the southwest buttress would be a new route. Upon...
Bear Creek Spire, Complete East Ridge. From the air, this long knife-edged arête is one of the most spectacular features in the entire range. In August John Martinek and I spent a very long day on this 22-pitch route with an overall rating of Grad...
Vertical Ethiopia: Climbing Toward Possibility in the Horn of Africa. Majka Burhardt, with color photography by Gabe Rogel. Addis Ababa: Shama Books, 2008.Vertical Ethiopia chronicles the fascinating journey of a team of climbers who seek untouche...
Kagmara Group and Kanjiroba Himal. On our expedition to West Nepal, we were a party of five: John B. Tyson, leader; James Burnet, Dr. Robert Kendell, John Cole and I. We left Kathmandu towards the end of August and travelled via the Kali Gandaki t...