Accident Reports ANAM
Fall into Crevasse, Inadequate Equipment, Frostbite, Inexperience, Alaska, Mount McKinley

FALL INTO CREVASSE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT,FROSTBITE, INEXPERIENCEAlaska, Mount McKinleyOn May 2, 1988, the five person Chinese Hong Kong expedition lost a cache at 3450 meters on the West Buttress route on Mount McKinley due to deep snow accumulati...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Tirich Mir from the South

Tirich Mir from the South. Our expedition had as members Artur Hajzer, Rafal Cholda, Jerzy Mamica, Janusz Mikolajczyk, Ludwik Musiol, Andrzej Zielinski and me as leader. On July 24 we established Base Camp at 14,450 feet on the South Barum Glacier...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Idaho, Sawtooth Range

Sawtooth Range. Jerry Fuller and I chose the unclimbed south face of the Lower Aiguille as a pre-season conditioning climb. We well deserved the unexpected difficulties encountered in three rather exhausting chimneys and the final traverse à cheva...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall into Crevasse, Unroped, Public on Glacier, Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Athabasca Glacier

FALL INTO CREVASSE, UNROPED, PUBLIC ON GLACIERAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Athabasca GlacierJuly 25, 1990, was a warm, sunny day, as a family of four from Calgary, Alberta, stopped at the Columbia Icefields in Jasper National Park and took a walk on ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Latok III, West Face, Attempt

Latok III, West Face, Attempt. In July, Jay Smith, Kitty Calhoun, Steve Quinlan and Ken Sauls attempted an alpine-style ascent of the unclimbed west face of Latok III (6949m) just off the Biafo Glacier in Pakistan. The team made an initial carry o...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Snow — Unable to Self-Arrest, Inadequate Equipment, Inexperience, British Columbia, Canadian Rockies, Castle Glacier

FALL ON SNOW – UNABLE TO SELF-ARREST, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, INEXPERIENCE,British Columbia, Canadian Rockies, Castle GlacierOn Aug 3rd J.C. (22) and A.T. (24), on a day off from their university geology field trip, left their camp located at the ba...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Chile, Southern Patagonia, Torres del Paine National Park, Torre Central, Golazo, Second Ascent, and First BASE Jump

Torre Central, Golazo, second ascent, and first BASE jump. Tim Akhmedkhanov, Igor Pekhterev, and leader Arkadiy Seregin (all from Russia), with Sergiy Kovalov from the Ukraine, arrived in Puerto Natales on January 9,2007, and five days later start...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru, Pirámide de Garcilaso and Alpamayo in the Cordillera Blanca, and Jutunhuma and Cayungate I in the Cordillera Vilcanota

Pirámide de Garcilaso and Alpamayo in the Cordillera Blanca, and Jutunhuma and Cayungate I in the Cordillera Vilcanota. An expedition of the Swabian Section of the Deutscher Alpenverein established its base camp on the eastern shore of Parrón Lake...


Feature Article AAJ
Northwest Ridge of Deborah

SLEEP was fading away with the help of hot coffee, and once again I became aware of the glacier stretching away from my tent door. Somewhere down that glacier the drone of an airplane rose and fell, steadily coming closer. By the time I stumbled...

| Keywords
| Published 1976 | Author Richard Nolting


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Kyrgyzstan, Western Kokshaal-too, Bolgandy West Valley, Pik Margesson, Pik St. George, Shining Tor, Pik Nantucket, Pik Heliya, Pik Jessica and Jeremy, Pik Stapledon, Pik Sally; Pik 4,705 m, Attempt

Bolgandy West Valley, Pik Margesson, Pik St. George, Shining Tor, Pik Nantucket, Pik Heliya, Pik Jessica and Jeremy, Pik Stapledon, Pik Sally; Pik 4,705m, attempt. In August David Jorden, Chris Lloyd, Tom Sutherland, Ben Sutton, and I traveled to ...


In Memoriam AAJ
John Dale Mendenhall, 1911-1983

JOHN DALE MENDENHALL1911-1983John Mendenhall died in Seattle July 30, 1983, three weeks after suffering a stroke. John, his wife Ruth, and other family members were vacationing in the Tetons when John was stricken on the night before a planned cli...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru, Andes, Yanauccha and Huaytapayana Ranges

Andes, Peru, Yanauccha and Huaytapayana Ranges. Richard Kimball, my wife, Alice, and I spent the second week of August, 1953, climbing and exploring the Yanauccha and Huaytapayana ranges of central Peru. We drove our equipment and food to Huancayo...


Accident Tables ANAM
Reported Mountaineering Accidents, Table I

Number of Accidents ReportedTotalPersonsInvolvedInjuredKilledUSACANUSACANUSACANUSACAN195115221131952313517131953242712121954314131819553439286195646725413195745532818195832392311195942256231019219604746412378194196149961144510144196271190164019119...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India—Garhwal, Kedarnath South Face Attempt

Kedarnath South Face Attempt. James Garrett, David Pollari, Mel Brown and I spent the month of September envisioning a new route on the south face of Kedarnath to the western crest of the massif. We established Base Camp behind the southern latera...


Book Reviews AAJ
Du Kenya au Kilimanjaro

Du Kenya au Kilimanjaro, by Roland Truffaut. 251 pages, 2 maps, 2 sketches, 16 pages illustrations. Paris: Rene Julliard, 1953. Price bound, Fr. Fcs. 1090.This little book is the story of the small French expedition of 1952, which visited Africa a...


Book Reviews AAJ
From Everest to the South Pole

From Everest to the South Pole, by George Lowe. New York: St. Martin’s Press, 1961. viii + 216 pages, with 6 maps and plans; 32 pages of photographs. Price $4.50. First published in England under the title Because It Is There. London: Cassell and ...


Feature Article AAJ
The Southeast Face of Proboscis Technical Climbing in the Logan Mountains

"Pick an objective that you feel will contribute something to the development of American climbing, gather the strongest group of technical climbers available to do the job and the AAC will back the venture.” This was the invitation offered me by ...

| Published 1963 | Author James P. McCarthy


Accident Reports ANAM
Falls on Rock (12), Protection Pulled Out (4), Dislocations (4), Inadequate Protection (3), Inadequate Belay, Rappel Error, Falling Object, Off Route, Exceeding Ability, Strained Groin, New York, Mohonk Preserve, Shawangunks

FALLS ON ROCK (12), PROTECTION PULLED OUT (4), DISLOCATIONS (4), INADEQUATE PROTECTION (3), INADEQUATE BELAY, RAPPEL ERROR, FALLING OBJECT, OFF ROUTE, EXCEEDING ABILITY, STRAINED GROINNew York, Mohonk Preserve, ShawangunksEighteen reports were sub...


Book Reviews AAJ
Le Terrain de Jeu de l'Europe

Le Terrain de Jeu de l’Europe, by Leslie Stephen, translated by Claire-Eliane Engel. 8 vo., wrappers, 268 pages, with two illustrations. Paris: Victor Attinger, 1935. Price, Fr. 6.50; bound, Fr. 9.50.Under the inclusive title of “Montagne” this is...


Feature Article AAJ
The Kenai Peninsula, Alaska

The Kenai Peninsula, AlaskaJ. Vincent HoemanIf the Aleutians are the jaunty beard of the craggy Alaska headland, then the Kenai Peninsula must be the prominent Adam’s apple, though it is shaped more like a reptilian head itself. Perhaps one day sl...