Learning to Breathe. Andy Cave. London: Hutchinson, 2005.276 pages. £18.99. $44.95.This remarkable debut memoir, co-winner of the 2005 Board- man-Tasker Award and winner of the best-book prize for Adventure Travel in the 2005 Banff Mountain Book F...
Mt. Langley, S-Wall. Technically Langley has been the most ignored of the Sierra’s 14,000' peaks. Then in 1999 a fine line went up the big north face. In September Michael Thomas and I thought we’d have a look, but we never got there. A high roadh...
Lindeman, North Couloir, British Columbia Cascade Range. On November 14, Rob Freeman, Tim Hudson, John Petroske and I climbed a four-pitch snow-and-ice couloir on the north face of the north peak of Mount Lindeman. The prominent couloir parallels ...
Altitude Illness: Prevention and Treatment. Stephen Bezruchka, M.D. Edited by Maureen O’Neill. The Mountaineers, Seattle, Washington. 93 pages. $6.95.This compact primer has been designed to substitute for the smattering of information and notes o...
Demavend and Ararat, 1951OLIVER S. CROSBYAS we drove down the dusty road from Tabriz to Tehran, Hermann Dietrich and I became more and more excited at the thought of the climbing which lay ahead. For months we had discussed with Les Rood plans for...
Edmund Percival Hillary 1919–2008“Sir Edmund described himself as a person of modest ability; in reality he was a colossus.... He was our hero,” New Zealand’s Prime Minister Helen Clark said in her tribute to him at his state funeral in Auckland. ...
Slick-Johnson Nepal Snowman Expedition. In the spring of 1957 Tom Slick, of San Antonio, Texas, and Peter Byrne made a three-weeks reconnaissance up the Arun River. Between the Chhoyang and the Iswa Kholas at about 12,000 feet they discovered what...
In mid-October, Craig Pope and I made the quasi-annual pilgrimage from Bozeman to Pinedale with hopes held high for favorable mixed climbing conditions in the northern Wind River Range. The weather gods were on our side: We had just enou...
FALL ON ROCK, UNROPED, HYPOTHERMIAWyoming, TetonsAt 0400 on the morning of July 11, 1982, Dan McKay (26), a noted local skier, left the Lower Saddle in an attempt to ski down the Grand Teton on cross-country skis. He was not an experienced mountai...
Exploring in the KarakoramHENRY S. FRANCIS, JR.American Himalayan expeditions that are not set upon climbing a single major peak of the range are still a novelty in the Karakorams of Pakistan. In fact, an expedition from any country that is not la...
USA-USSR Pamirs ExpeditionJohn Roskelley, Peter Lev,J.E. Williamson, Jocelyn C. GliddenAs a result of an invitation from the Soviet Sports Federation to the American Alpine Club, a nineteen-member expedition, led by Pete Schoening, participated in...
Cholatse and Taweche Attempts. A five-man British expedition led by William Dark failed to climb the southeast ridge of Cholatse and the northeast ridge of Taweche in the pre-monsoon period. They established a high camp in the col between their tw...
FALLING SNOW BLOCKWashington, North CascadesOn July 24 at 2:00 p.m., National Outdoor Leadership School Instructor Jon Stamp and five students left their camp on the saddle between Dome and Dana Glaciers. They were traveling in two rope teams of t...
Towers of Brujo, Clandestino. From February 5-19, Toni Arbonés, Nicolas Meyer and I established Clandestino (ABO 7c+ A0, 400m), a free route in the Towers of Brujo in the Central Cordillera. There is no map of this part of Chile, and as far as I k...
Crevasse Patterns in Glaciers*Lawrence E. NielsenaLTHOUGH most mountaineers are familiar with crevasses from the practical standpoint, few know much about the physics of the formation of crevasses or the reasons why crevasses assume certain shapes...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION/BELAYCalifornia, Tahquitz Rock, The StepOn October 19, we believe that David Kellogg (32) and Kelly Tufo (41) had completed the climb and had finished up on Super Pooper or White Maiden’s Walkway. They were taki...
THE three-mile-long ridge of Kanchenjunga—third highest of the Himalayan giants—at no point drops below 8300 meters (27,231 feet). This splendid, wild mountain group, with its 13,000-foot-high bulwarks of rock and ice, not only thrilled mountai...
The West Face of Gasherbrum IVTo the top of the Shining Wallby Jae-hag Jung, Corean Alpine ClubWhen Sung-Dae Cho and three other Corean Alpine Club* members climbed Mount McKinley’s Cassin Ridge in 1988, it was not only the first Korean ascent of ...
Gasherbrum II, Gasherbrum I (Hidden Peak) and Broad Peak. We arrived at Base Camp at the foot of Gasherbrum II on May 18 after a 12-day approach. On May 22 we set up a camp on the plateau at 19,350 feet between Gasherbrums II and III but the weath...
Avant-Premières à l'Everest, by Gabriel Chevalley, René Dittert, and Raymond Lambert. Introduction by Dr. Ed. Wyss-Dunant. 304 pages, 36 illustrations, sketch maps, and appendices. Paris and Grenoble: Arthaud, 1953. Price, $3.50.This fine account ...