(A) Khalkhal West, (B) Praqpa Ri southeast top, and (C) Praqpa Ri (Central), seen from the east across the Savoia Glacier. The Chileans climbed a new route (not visible) on Khalkhal West and made the first ascent of Praqpa R...
After months of waiting—and in the end only four weeks before we were due to leave Italy—Federica Mingolla, Simone Pedeferri, and I received a permit to climb in the Kondus Valley. The idea for this trip had been in my mind for four years, ever si...
In August we visited the Gezart Valley, establishing base camp at 3,550m, not far from the start of the Gezart Glacier. Our campsite was at least 10 hours’ walk to the south (either one very long day or two days’ trek) from the village of Ak Art, ...
In late February, in partnership with Dutch guide Jan Bakker, I led a small team of American skiers on what we believe to be the first complete ski ascent and descent of the highest mountain lying fully in Iraq: Mt. Halgurd (3,606m, 36°44'27.75"...
In early August, Tom Schindfessel (Belgium) and Vlad Capusan (Romania) established a long new route on the north face of Bugaboo Spire. After a couple of warmups on established climbs in the Bugaboos, the duo approached the north face and began cl...
During April, Jesse Dufton, Alastair Everett, Oliver Mentz, Jennifer Roberts, and Molly Thompson (expedition leader) completed a self-supported expedition to the southern Stauning Alps. We aimed to rekindle the link between science and mountaineer...
Tabsar (Tobsar) was brought onto the permitted list in 2002. On the HMG-Finn map it is clearly marked as Tabsar (6,065m) at 28°34'51.27"N, 85°3'24.90"E in the Chamari Himal. However, coordinates given in the recent Ministry of Tourism list confusi...
On a rainy April day, Curtis Chabot and I carried 1,000’ of static line and a double set of cams up the northwest arête of the Unaweep Wall (possibly establishing a new mountaineer’s route in the process), the largest cliff in Unaweep Canyon with ...
Sharphu is a collection of peaks on a north-south ridge to the west of Kambachen, forming the watershed between the Ghunsa and Yangma valleys. Well to the north lie the peaks of Sato (6,176m) and Nupchu (6,044m); to the south is the Nango La, a pa...
Kyrgyzstan is rich in little-explored mountains. One example is the At Bashi, a beautiful range of snowy summits and technical rocky peaks near and parallel to the Chinese border. The range is more than 100km in length, and the highest peak ...
ONCE AGAIN Simon Gietl and I were at the gas station in Toblacher Kreuzung, having a quick coffee before climbing. After the usual “how’s it going,” we discussed whether we each of us had anything planned for the fall. During the day we returned s...
In September I sat in my house in Uløya through amazingly stable weather. Finally, I couldn't bear the pressure any more and set out to free solo the southeast pillar of Blåtinden (1,142m, 69°50'39.80"N, 20°36'37.28"E). I climbed the left flank of...
In June, Aiden Laffey and I attempted Machu (6,630m, 36.234967°N, 75.051874°E) in the Hispar Valley. As far as I could ascertain from the Internet and from talking to the locals, it had not been climbed or attempted before. From Hunza we traveled ...
IN EARLY 2010, the government of India opened 104 peaks in the Zanskar region. One of these was unnamed “Peak 6,000m,” located above the west bank of the north Hagshu Nala. It is a little north of Lagan (5,750m), which was climbed in 2014 by a Slo...
NO CLIMBER in the 88-year history of the AAJ has written more reports or had more climbs cited in these pages than Fred Beckey. No one even comes close. Reflecting his extraordinarily long climbing career, the AAJ database holds more than 700 arti...
SUBURBAN BLONDES (IV 5.9 C2+) is a relatively obscure aid route up the 850-foot Minotaur Tower, which rises along the broad wall between Angels Landing and Moonlight Buttress. The route, established in April 1979 by desert legend Ron Olevsky and S...
I FIRST LAID EYES upon the beautiful northeast face of Peak 9,331’ while walking across the Homathko Icefield in the early summer of 2016. Upon returning to the frontcountry, I was excited to find that the peak had not been climbed. Later that sum...
Brian Friedrich traversing the previously unclimbed east ridge of Griper (2,417m). Photo by Eric GilbertsonBARBEAU PEAK (2,616m) is the highest mountain in the far northern Canadian territory of Nunavut, rising just 550 miles from the North Pole. ...
The two of us had been dreaming of an expedition to Baffin Island’s big walls ever since we started climbing together in 2013. We'd ogled photos, trip reports, and the guidebook for the past three years, always kicking the can down the road on...
If a tooth gets knocked out of position or completely knocked out of one's mouth: Do not scrub, disinfect, or allow the root of a dislodged tooth to dry out.Rinse the tooth with saline or water to remove debris; do not touch the root.Re-im...