Mount Goode, East Buttress. One of the most magnificent alpine faces of the northern Cascades, Mount Goode’s northeast wall sweeps 3000 feet to its granite summit. In 1954 John Parrott and I climbed the ice apron and steep slabs of the direct nort...
A.A.C., Rocky Mountain Section. This Section met four times during the year, starting with a dinner meeting in April at the sprawling Phipps mansion in Denver. Gerry and Barbara Roach had just returned from an around-the-world junket, a part of wh...
Meru Shark Fin, East Face Attempt. Britons Paul Pritchard, Johnny Dawes, Noel Craine and I from South Africa tackled the technical and demanding east face of Meru Shark Fin (6660 meters, 21,850 feet) via a new route. In early September, we were ha...
FALL ON SNOW, FALLING INTO CREVASSE—SNOW SLIDE, UNABLE TO SELF-ARREST, EXCEEDING ABILITIES Oregon, Mount Hood, Cooper SpurOn July 23, 1994, about 1330, a party of four was descending the Cooper Spur route when at least one individual lost his foot...
Alberto de Agostino, Swiss missionary and author of the fine volume, Andes Patigonicos (1941), now in our library, has ascended the highest peak (3600 m.) of the St. Lawrence massif in the Patagonian Andes.
Stewart Valley, Baffin Island. An expedition of the Ottawa and Montreal Sections of the Alpine Club of Canada spent three weeks climbing in the Stewart valley at N 71° 03'. The party consisted of K. O’Connell and E. Whalley, leaders, and J.A.R. Bl...
Clyde Minaret, Southeast Face. Kim Schmitz and I made the first winter ascent of this route in February. We were surprised that this most prominent of High Sierra wall climbs had been left alone in winter. Not only was it selected as one of the “F...
Valley of the Gods, Various Activity. In 1999, with various partners, I visited the Valley of the Gods in southeastern Utah five times. While the bulk of my time was spent racing around Valley of the Gods Loop Road like a maniac (trying to set a n...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION—Wyoming, The Tetons. On August 4, Allan Eddy (28) and Ken Mayers were climbing the Southwest Ridge of Symmetry Spire. At 2:30 p.m. Eddy fell from about 90 feet above the beginning of the “nose” pitch where Ken M...
Rattlesnake Route. This route climbs a face, actually an indistinct buttress, about 200 feet to the southwest of Bridalveil Fall, and is easily identified as the area above a cone-shaped rock and tree slope. Several parties in recent years have be...
Climbs in the Paine Group. The Asociación Universitaria de Andin- ismo, Santiago, organized a nine-man group to tackle Cerro “Fortaleza” (or “Fortress,” unofficial name), in the Paine group. In 20 days of attempts C. Gálvez and G. Oyarzún had only...
Eastern Darwin Range, Near Stoppani Glacier. In the early 1960s while returning with Eric Shipton on a Chilean naval vessel from an expedition, we put into Yendegaia Bay and anchored off Estancia Yendegaia for the night. From there a broad, flat, ...
Nuptse and Thamserku Attempts. Three Scots led by Malcolm Duff attempted the west ridges of both of these peaks in the post-monsoon but reached only 20,175 feet on Thamserku and 22,000 feet on Nuptse. One climber failed to acclimatize and technica...
Langar Zom, Main Peak. The Gakuyukai Alpine Club of Waseda University climbed at the head of the Ushko Glacier. Tanenori Tachibana was the leader and members were Riki Suzuki and Katsushi Noguchi; Captain Nasib was the liaison officer. After leavi...
Beatrice, Southeast Face, New Routes. It was reported that from the end of August to mid-September, a British team put up two separate new routes on Beatrice (ca.5800m) by its 750-meter-plus southeast face on the north side of the Charakusa Valley...
Diamond, Longs Peak, New Routes. Christopher Robin and Water- hole N° 3 are two new Grade V routes on the Diamond of Longs Peak. I did both solo, taking two days on each. These right-side routes begin with difficult nailing on the lower sections, ...
Nanga Parbat, Rupal Face Attempt. Because of sickness and frostbite suffered on the south face of Aconcagua, five of the planned Spanish expedition could not go to Nanga Parbat and only Luis Fraga could join me. After only two days’ march from Ram...
Aguja Rafael, West Face, and Saint Exupéry, North Face and Upper East Ridge. On January 25, my wife Sue Harrington and I climbed 14 pitches up the British-American route on the west face of Aguja Rafael, which has also at times been called Torre I...
California, Yosemite National Park. On 29 August Tom Gerughty (21) was cleaning the last pitch of Sickle Ledge Route on El Capitan while using Jumar ascenders. He reclipped the right Jumar at the start of the pendulums and the left Jumar released ...
Dhaulagiri Winter Attempt by Koreans. A Korean expedition led by Cho Jung-Sol ended its attempt on the normal northeast ridge on December 25 at 8025 meters, only 42 vertical meters below the summit. Strong wind and cold forced the summit-attack te...