Mount Deception, Northeast Ridge*. Our goal was the southeast ridge, a long double-cor-niced tight-rope walk that had rudely turned back one strong party. Jeff Benowitz and I flew onto the Eldridge Glacier just south of the Denali Park wilderness ...
Everest, East (Fantasy) Ridge attempt. The only expedition that did not attempt the standard Everest routes on the north and south side during the spring was a team of 10 Indian climbers and five Nepalese Sherpas led by Santosh Yadav, the first wo...
Changtse, Southeast Face. We completed the second American ascent of Changtse by a route previously climbed by Ed Webster solo (see above), the southeast face. We also made a significant achievement in using the Gamow Bag as a treatment for cerebr...
Saser Kangri II (7,518m), southwest face. Americans Mark Richey, Steve Swenson, and Freddie Wilkinson made the first ascent of the world’s second highest unclimbed independent mountain (attempts on the highest, Gangkar Puensum in Bhutan, are banne...
FALL ON ROCK, EXCEEDING ABILITIES, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, BELAY FAILURE Alberta, Chinaman’s PeakOn August 22, B.P. (20) and M.K. attempted to climb the usual Northeast Face of Chinaman's Peak when something went wrong, probably on the third or fou...
Meru Central (Shark’s Fin), east face, attempt. The Korea Meru Peak Expedition comprised Kim Sae-jung and Cho U-ryeong from the Extreme Leader Alpine Club, Lee Sang-woo and Jang Seon-tae from the Bong-ahm Alpine Club, and Park Young-sik from the G...
Agua Negra Region, Central Andes. In January, Horacio Sánchez went to this important zone with many virgin peaks. He ascended solo a peak (ca. 5100-5200 m) between the Paso de Agua Negra (4779 m) and the Glaciar de Agua Negra, a little north of th...
Mt. Kerkeslin: First Ascent by W. Face and First Traverse. The second ascent of Mt. Kerkeslin (9790 ft.) was made on 8 July 1946, from about Milepost 22 on the Jasper-Banff highway, about one mile and a half S. of Athabaska Falls. E. R. Gibson and...
Porcelain Wall, Sky Is Falling. In late July, Eric Kohl and I established a new line on the left side of the Porcelain Wall. We named the route Sky Is Falling (VI 5.10+ A?, 15 pitches, 73 holes) due to the amount of loose rock regularly shed from ...
FALL ON ROCK—CAUSE UNKNOWN, CLIMBING ALONEWyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Grand Teton, Owen-Spaulding RouteOn June 23 at 0825, Amer Beslagic (38) obtained a back-country camping permit at the Jenny Lake Ranger Station for a campsite at the Mor...
Arch Canyon, Bridges National Monument. In April, 1984 Tim Coats, Gary Rugerra and Scott Baxter made the first ascent of Dream Speaker, two pitches on the west face (II, 5.11). The 250-foot Cedar Mesa sandstone tower lies five miles up Arch Canyon...
Alaska, Mt. McKinley. It was at our 17,200-foot camp that we had trouble with the camp stove (optimus). On this day it was 16°F below zero inside the snow cave, I removed my silk snow gloves to try to fix the stove. This operation took approximate...
Manaslu, Northeast Face Attempt in Winter. A little after midday on December 22 my brother Alan and I were climbing carefully upwards at 23,000 feet on the northeast slope of Manaslu. Winds of more than 80 mph kept throwing us sideways into the wa...
Pumori. Pere Rodés, Joan Alarcón and I reached the summit of Pumori on May 5, having left Base Camp two days before. Base Camp was at 5260 meters and we made only one camp at 6250 meters on the climb. During the descent we had to bivouac in an ice...
Tsaranoro Massif, Various Activity. Last summer three different teams visited the Tsaranoro Massif in the Andringitra National Park. All the visiting teams, except Kurt Albert and Bernd Arnold, who had first visited the area some years before, use...
Volcán Juriques, 1987. In September, 1987, nine women led by Julia Meza made a 12-day trip to the Licancabur district. On the 16th, all nine climbed Volcán Juriques (5704 meters, 18,713 feet) on the Chilean-Bolivian border.Evelio Echevarría
FALL ON ROCK, RAPPEL DEVICE DETACHED California, Yosemite ValleyAt 2209 on September 19, 1988, Alksander Lekic, of Celje, Yugoslavia, reported that Dragan Rogic (28) of Zagreb, Yugoslavia, had been killed in a fall to the ground from the Aquarian ...
Peaks in Southern Cordillera Apolobamba. Ken Findlay, Les Holbert, Pamela Holt, Ray Dimmock, Ian Wadsworth, Sue Cooper, Ashley Hardwell and I visited the Cordillera Apolobamba, where we were able to locate a southern area which seems to have had n...
Satopanth. Our group of nine Austrians and a Swiss had first hoped to climb Satopanth (7075 meters, 23,212 feet) by its northwest ridge. We failed when five members fell sick at the beginning of the climbing period. On September 14, Klaus Reininge...
Grand Central Tower, Peshastin Pinnacles. The central chimney of the east face was climbed in April by Don Claunch, Ed Cooper, and Galen McBee. A variety of wooden wedges, wide angle pitons, bolts, and regular pitons were required on this class 5 ...