Bugaboo and Vowell Groups, Purcells. During the second week of July Earle Whipple, Bob Page, Arnold Guess, and Bill Buckingham packed nearly a month’s food to Boulder Camp in the Bugaboos. For the next two weeks we familiarized ourselves with the ...

K2, Abruzzi Ridge. It was reported that Japanese Masafumi Todaka had planned a solo ascent of the unrepeated Kukuczka-Piotrowski route on the south face in three days with bivouacs at 6800 meters and 7900 meters, but unsettled weather and deep sno...

Guillaumet and Fitz Roy. At the end of September, Silvia FitzPatrick and I climbed the Aguja Guillaumet by the French couloir. For Silvia, this was her first Patagonian summit. We returned twice to Guillaumet and made a new variant on the northeas...

Shishapangma Attempt. Our Shishapangma (Xixabangma) expedition degenerated into a reconnaissance when a number of the expedition could not go. Although technically easy, the route on the mountain is not free of objective danger. A large slab avala...

California, Half Dome, Yosemite National Park. On 31 March Larry Greene (29) and Edwin Hermans, Jr. (24) were climbing on Half Dome. It is impossible to reconstruct exact sequence of events. Accident scene was at lower end of steep avalanche gully...

Climbs in Colorado National Monument. Mike Colocino and Calvin Herbert climbed Tunnel Vision (III, 5.10 +, A1,4pitches). The route ascends the second crack system right of the tunnel located right of Ribbed Buttress. Fred Knapp, Sharon Sadleir, Ju...

P 6115, Sargent Icefield, Kenai Peninsula. P 6115, between the Ellsworth Glacier and the Sargent Icefield and the highest in the Sargent Icefield region, was climbed for the first time by Fred Woelkers and Fred Moore. They were flown on March 10 t...

Ama Dablam in the Post-Monsoon. As the season began, the Nepalese authorities expected 16 teams to come to Ama Dablam (6812m), but they continued to grant permits to everyone who asked for them, and by the time autumn ended, an all-time high numbe...

Nun, East Ridge Attempt. In September the weather was fine and we climbed a number of peaks in Kashmir. By early October there was much unsettled cold weather. We reached 21,000 feet on the east ridge of Nun and bivouacked there for three days in ...

Ama Dablam, Post-Monsoon Ascents and Attempt. German Günther Härter led an expedition of six Germans, 4 Austrians and an Italian which climbed Ama Dablam by its southwest ridge. The summit was reached on October 22 by Härter, Austrian Peter Konzer...

Mount Logan. A few parties climbed Mount Logan, all by the King Trench route. A Japanese group led by Seiichiro Takai, was on the mountain from June 25 to July 9. A Kluane National Park Warden Service expedition of four members was led by me. Ron ...

Pumori Winter Attempt. Glenn Rowley led a group of 14 English climbers on the normal southeast face of Pumori. They were unsuccessful, reaching 6250 meters on December 2.Elizabeth Hawley

Ndoto Mountains, Manamonet, Maximum Miracle Centre. The British team of Toby Dunn, Alex Jakubowski, and Ben Winston, climbed a virgin wall, Manamonet: E5 6b. See “Maximum Miracle Centre” feature article earlier in this Journal.

Swargarohini. On October 25, 1974, Englishman Charles Clarke, Canadians Dilsher Singh Virk, Peter Fuhrman and Bruce MacKinnon and Indians Mohan Singh and Rattan Singh made the first ascent of Swargarohini’s western summit from Camp IV at 17,700 fe...

Colorado, near Mt. Neva—On June 20, 1956 Robert H. Cook (14), one of a group of about 20 boys from a YMCA Summer Camp, fell down the snow-faced cliffs on the side of Mt. Neva. He apparently slipped and rolled and tumbled 60 feet suffering a broken...

Dangchezhengla (5,833m), first ascent. Two climbers from the Hengduan Mountains Club (HMC)—Kiyoaki Miyagawa and Junta Murayama—made the first ascent of this beautiful, hidden snow peak, reaching a foggy summit at noon on June 17. Dangchezhengla is...

Mount Thor. A party led by me succeeded in the first ascent of this major peak in the Gold Range of the Monashees on August 7. Other members of the party were Graham Hollins, Chris Kopczynski and John Roskelley. Our approach was from the northeast...

Masherbrum II Attempt and Possible Altitude. In 1988, an Italian expedition led by Augusto Zanotti made the first ascent of the most westerly of the Masherbrum group. They called it “Masherbrum Far West” and gave it an altitude of 7200 meters. (Se...

Stein’s Pillar. The second ascent of Stein’s Pillar, a noted geologic landmark east of Prineville, Oregon, was made in late August by Steve Marts, Eric Bjornstad, Dave Beckstead, and me in a 1½-day siege. The 400-foot Pillar overhangs profusely on...

Spantik Ascent and Attempt. The French "Allibert" Karakoram expedition 1995 was successful in climbing Spantik (7027 meters) in the Rakaposhi Group. The expedition was led by the guide Bruno Douillet and approached the mountain from Chogolungma si...