Sharphu is a collection of peaks on a north-south ridge to the west of Kambachen, forming the watershed between the Ghunsa and Yangma valleys. Well to the north lie the peaks of Sato (6,176m) and Nupchu (6,044m); to the south is the Nango La, a pa...
Kyrgyzstan is rich in little-explored mountains. One example is the At Bashi, a beautiful range of snowy summits and technical rocky peaks near and parallel to the Chinese border. The range is more than 100km in length, and the highest peak ...
ONCE AGAIN Simon Gietl and I were at the gas station in Toblacher Kreuzung, having a quick coffee before climbing. After the usual “how’s it going,” we discussed whether we each of us had anything planned for the fall. During the day we returned s...
In September I sat in my house in Uløya through amazingly stable weather. Finally, I couldn't bear the pressure any more and set out to free solo the southeast pillar of Blåtinden (1,142m, 69°50'39.80"N, 20°36'37.28"E). I climbed the left flank of...
In June, Aiden Laffey and I attempted Machu (6,630m, 36.234967°N, 75.051874°E) in the Hispar Valley. As far as I could ascertain from the Internet and from talking to the locals, it had not been climbed or attempted before. From Hunza we traveled ...
IN EARLY 2010, the government of India opened 104 peaks in the Zanskar region. One of these was unnamed “Peak 6,000m,” located above the west bank of the north Hagshu Nala. It is a little north of Lagan (5,750m), which was climbed in 2014 by a Slo...
NO CLIMBER in the 88-year history of the AAJ has written more reports or had more climbs cited in these pages than Fred Beckey. No one even comes close. Reflecting his extraordinarily long climbing career, the AAJ database holds more than 700 arti...
SUBURBAN BLONDES (IV 5.9 C2+) is a relatively obscure aid route up the 850-foot Minotaur Tower, which rises along the broad wall between Angels Landing and Moonlight Buttress. The route, established in April 1979 by desert legend Ron Olevsky and S...
I FIRST LAID EYES upon the beautiful northeast face of Peak 9,331’ while walking across the Homathko Icefield in the early summer of 2016. Upon returning to the frontcountry, I was excited to find that the peak had not been climbed. Later that sum...
Brian Friedrich traversing the previously unclimbed east ridge of Griper (2,417m). Photo by Eric GilbertsonBARBEAU PEAK (2,616m) is the highest mountain in the far northern Canadian territory of Nunavut, rising just 550 miles from the North Pole. ...
The two of us had been dreaming of an expedition to Baffin Island’s big walls ever since we started climbing together in 2013. We'd ogled photos, trip reports, and the guidebook for the past three years, always kicking the can down the road on...
If a tooth gets knocked out of position or completely knocked out of one's mouth: Do not scrub, disinfect, or allow the root of a dislodged tooth to dry out.Rinse the tooth with saline or water to remove debris; do not touch the root.Re-im...
Even if your cell phone is showing no bars, it’s always worth attempting a 911 emergency call in remote areas. All carriers are required to provide free 911 service, and another car- rier might be able to connect your call even if your ca...
On July 23, an experienced climber died after falling to the ground from the anchor of a sport climb. We did not receive a firsthand report, but an online analysis from a close friend who was belaying at the time stated that the climber was likely...
In 2016 at the Mohonk Preserve there were 21 climbing-related incidents, including both injury and illness. Sixteen accidents required technical rescues. Seven of the accidents were caused by a belay system failure, while four were caused by inade...
An experienced 55-year-old mountaineer died in a 100-foot fall from 14,197-foot Crestone Needle in the Sangre de Cristos on July 9. Although he had climbed the peak at least twice, he and his team got off route and into more difficult terrain duri...
SHOCK IS DEFINED as inadequate delivery of oxygenated blood (perfusion) to the tissues and organs of the body. Insufficient perfusion results in deranged cell function initially and eventually cell death if left untreated. Climbers should be able ...
A 24-year-old climber fell at least 70 feet to the ground at Redgarden Wall on April 9, sustaining significant injuries. The 5.8 variation he was attempting has a PG-13 hazard rating. A complete report was not available, but witnesses said the fal...
On August 15, 2015, at approximately 4 p.m., Tony M. (37), an experienced traditional and alpine climber, fell approximately 20 feet on the east arête of the north summit of Split Mountain (14,058 feet) in the Palisades region. He and his partner,...
EVEN AT A DISTANCE, the sound of a person hitting the ground after a 70-foot fall is unmistakable. On April 9, 2016, I was approaching the Whale’s Tail in Eldorado Canyon to follow a novice trad climber up his first lead in the Colorado state park...