A Note on the Chaba Glacier. On July 7th, 1933, being encamped in the eastern fork of the Chaba, E. Cromwell and the writer reoccupied the glacial observation station made by the Harvard party of 1927, at which time (July 28th) the ice was within ...
Cholatse Attempt. Seven Germans led by Hans-Jörg Gutzler failed on their attempt to climb Cholatse by the southwest ridge at 5750 meters.Elizabeth Hawley
Gangsthang, lower west face; Thirot Shivling (5,324m). Our team of nine climbers met with cold, variable weather but discovered a magnificent new valley for mountaineering, the Thirot Nala in the Lahaul district of Himachal Pradesh. Initial reconn...
Gurla Range, Ascents and Other Activity. Our team consisted of Tom Simons, Quinn Simons, Soren Peters and myself as guide. Our main objective was Gurla Mondata (7700m), the third-highest peak in Tibet, located in the west near the frontier with In...
Climber’s Guide to Tahoe Rock. Mike Carville. Chockstone Press, Evergreen, CO, 1991. 294 pages, photos, maps and topos. Soft cover. $18.00.This is a welcome and much-needed addition to the rapidly-expanding California (and Nevada) guidebook repert...
Mt. Doonerak, First Winter Ascent, Previously Unreported. On March 17, 1996, Jon Miller and I flew into the North Fork of the Koyukuk River and skied up Bombardment Creek, climbing a few frozen waterfalls (up to W13) on the approach to Marshall La...
FALL ON ROCK, RAPPEL ERROR, DARKNESSUtah, Zion National Park, Prodigal SonOn New Years, 1997, John Christensen (36) died while soloing Prodigal Son in Zion National Park. Having fixed two pitches the previous day, he tried to complete the route in...
Shisha Pangma Ascent, Attempts and Tragedies in the Post-Monsoon. Only one climber reached the highest summit of Shisha Pangma in the post-monsoon when Briton Nikola Kekus completed his climb. All others stopped at the lower central summit. Some 1...
El Capitan, Mediterraneo Route, 1982. Four Spanish brothers, José Luis, Miguel Angel, Carlos and Javier Gallego, made a new route on El Capitan in October 1982. In the lower part it was between the Magic Mushroom and Salathé routes and in the uppe...
TABLE II1951-601961Geographical DistrictsNumber of AccidentsDeathsTotalPersonsInvolvedNumber of AccidentsDeathsTotalPersonsInvolvedCanada —Alberta 323313British Columbia2410328Yukon Territory000101United States —Atlantic — North401554202— South ...
Manaslu, Ascent, and Fourth Person to Climb All 14 8000ers. On Manaslu, Mexican Carlos Carsolio on May 12 became the fourth person ever to scale all 14 8000ers—and the first of the four to come from a non-European country—when he and his brother A...
Dragon Peak, Northwest Ridge. In June, Claude Fiddler and I climbed the left of two arêtes on the northwest side of this peak. The route was six pitches and was done in a day, car-to-car. (II, 5.8.)Vern Clevenger
Colorado, Grand Giraffe. On 29 September, Warren Bleser (26) was leading the last chimney of the Grand Giraffe, a difficult 5.8 class climb in Eldorado Springs Canyon. He was belayed by Quinn and had reached the last difficult move, inside a chimn...
Vermilion Cliffs, various activity. For the past five years Albert Newman of Flagstaff, with a dozen partners, including Jeff Kennedy and James Martin, has passionately pursued new route development in the Vermilion Cliffs of northern Arizona. Com...
Summit Lake Area, Various Ascents. Six of us from the Banff area converged on Summit Lake during the first two weeks of May. We only had time for a short trip, so were banking on a lucky weather window. People seemed to think that going before the...
Watkins Mountains, Various Ascents. In May, Christine Watkins led a British group including Anne Picard and Charlotte Skinmeir that made several ascents (many firsts) from the Upper Woolley Glacier. First ascents included Sphinx (3210m), Ladies’ P...
New England Section. The year began on a celebratory note when Bill Atkinson was honored at the home of Rich and Andrea Leonard on his 80th birthday January 13. The 90 guests, including representatives of both the Appalachian Mountain Club and the...
JULIE CHENEY CULBERSON1957-1993One of America’s most loved and respected alpinists, teachers and guides was lost on August 9, 1993 when Julie Culberson was killed in a climbing accident in the Canadian Rockies. The loss to her husband Matt and to ...
Ama Dablam. Our expedition was composed of Hans Penz, Dr. Theo Lyu- banowitsch, Stefan Krismer, Gemot Pollhammer and me as leader. We placed Base Camp on the edge of the moraine below the west face of Ama Dablam at 14,925 feet. On April 4 we set u...
Mt. Logan, The Orion Spur. In late May Jeremy Frimer and I climbed a new route on the northeast side of Mt. Logan (5,956m). The Orion Spur drops from Logan’s summit plateau into the basin formed by the Catenary Ridge (1967) and the Independence Ri...