Axel Heiberg Island. Dr. Eduard Leuthold and I joined the Jacobsen- McGill Arctic Research Expedition 1960 from July 26 until August 18 on Axel Heiberg Island to survey, climb and provide medical care whenever required. On July 26 we finally arriv...
FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING UNROPED, NO HARD HAT, INTOXICATEDCalifornia, Yosemite ValleyAround 1830 on July 15, Troy Johnson (22) met with Bill Russell. Russell stated Johnson at that particular time was intoxicated, yet expressed his desire to perform...
Ak-Su North Peak, North Face, Various Ascents. The Laylak Ak-Su region is still one of the most attractive climbing regions in the C.I.S., with the most technically difficult peak being the north face of Ak-Su North Peak (5217m). From August 12-25...
Everest Tragedy. The Defense Academy Team led by Takashi Kawakami comprised 10 members. They hoped to climb Everest by the west ridge via the Rongbuk Glacier. The climbing leader, Masashi Yokoyama, was drowned when he failed to jump across a glaci...
RAPPEL ANCHOR FAILURE, FALL ON ICEAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Tangle Ridge, Centre Stage FallsAround mid-day on November 26, 1992, Pat S., who was a Park Warden, Mountain Guide, and Public Safety instructor with the Canadian Parks Service in Jasper ...
Kande Hiunchuli. Eight British climbers led by Garry Kennard attempted the north ridge of Kande Hiunchuli (6627 meters, 21,742 feet), but they could not proceed beyond 5900 meters due to fresh snow. The expedition was abandoned on October 29.Kamal...
KR 5. A 12-member Indian expedition led by Miss Purnima Dutta climbed KR 5 (6258 meters, 20,532 feet) on July 2.Kamal K. Guha, Editor, Himavanta, India
Lagh Shar Attempt. The members of the Pinerola Section’s expedition to Lagh Shar (19,971 feet) were Giorgio Griva, Michele Ghirardi, Paolo Strani, Paolo Ghersi, Piero Dassano, Ercole Cassale, Luigi Vig- netta, Eraldo Quero, Giuseppe Morero and I a...
Kang Guru. A Japanese expedition led by Kiyoshi Washizu made the 14th ascent of Kang Guru (6981 meters, 22,904 feet) by the normal west ridge. They placed Base Camp, Advance Base, Camps I and II at 3800,4600,5600 and 6020 meters on March 25 and 30...
Mount Monolith, Tombstone Range; Ogilvie Mountains. On July 14 Allen Dennis, Selwyn Hughes, Martin Williams and I were helicoptered to Mount Monolith. On the 15th and 16th we climbed straight up the east face of the neighboring peak to the south. ...
FALL ON ROCK, PLACED INADEQUATE PROTECTION, OUT OF PRACTICEWashington, Snoqualmie Pass, Chair PeakMy son Erik Podenski (14) and I (42) were climbing the Northeast Buttress route on Chair Peak on May 16, 1992. This route is rated Class 4. I led all...
This pyramidal peak lies on the Nepal-Tibet border, southeast of Gauri Shankar and south of Melungtse. David Gottlieb and I approached from the town of Shigati (950m, on the Tamba Kosi) to the west, and hiked five days to base camp in the village ...
Jack Mountain, North Face. On July 18 and 19, Fred Beckey, Dallas Kloke and I climbed the north face of Jack Mountain (9066 feet) via an approach through the 7000-foot pass between East and West Crater Mountains. From camp at 6000 feet just east o...
East Temple. On September 2, Stu Turner, Mike Ermarth, Brad Merry, Ron Shrigley and I did a new route on the northwest face of East Temple. We climbed the talus and slabs to the base of the face, and then ascended a wide and sometimes icy couloir ...
HYPOTHERMIA, FROSTBITE, EXPOSURE, INADEQUATE CLOTHING AND EQUIPMENT, FAILURE TO TURN BACK, PARTY SEPARATED, EXCEEDING ABILITIES—INEXPERIENCE, WEATHER New Hampshire, Mount Jefferson and Mount WashingtonOn January 14, 1994, Derek Tinkham (20) and Je...
Dartmouth Mountaineering Club. Our club has concluded another safe, productive year. While others waited for the winter snows to melt in New England, three members went to the Mealy Mountains in Labrador for a two-week ski trek. Spring brought the...
Mt. Sheol. 1905 first ascent by P. S. Thompson, C. Kaufmann. This information is merely from the entry in Kaufmann’s book, route and time not being given.
Changla (6,563m), southwest face of north-northwest ridge, then north face. Uncertain of the best line to take on unclimbed Changla, Hirofumi Kobayashi (leader), Seiya Nakasukasa, Yuta Shibayama, and Naoki Yamaguchi approached up the Chula Khola, ...
Mount Wrangell. Bob Hurley, Bob Sutherland and I reached the summit of Mount Wrangell (14,163 feet) on September 4. We had been flown to a glacial bench northwest of the mountain at 8000 feet on August 30. We camped at 9800 feet the first night, m...
FALLING ROCK—Washington, Mt. Rainier. On June 18, a fifteen- year-old boy was injured by rockfall while climbing in the Thumb Rock area of the Liberty Ridge route with five others. His kneecap was broken, so a rescue team of eight had to lower him...