Washington, Mount Rainier National Park. On 16 June Ted Miles was leading a guided summit party down after a successful climb of Mt. Rainier (14,410). While crossing a steep (60 degree) snowbridge at the 12,000 foot level, Miles fell 40 feet into ...
The RMNP summer alpine season was limited by exceptionally wet weather for Colorado. Although Tommy Caldwell and Topher Donahue made a first free ascent, at 5.13-, of Bilge (previously 5.8 A3) on the Ship’s Prow at 12,000', perhaps the only long n...
FROSTBITE, EXHAUSTION, BAD WEATHER, PARTY SEPARATED, FALL ON SNOW, CLIMBING UNROPED, EXPOSURE, HYPOTHERMIA, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, INEXPERIENCEAlaska, Mount McKinleyOn May 14, 1982, an 18-member guided party from the German Alpine Club (DAV) flew t...
Deer Ridge Buttress and Longs Peak, Rocky Mountain National Park. On August 10, Scott Hall and Skip Daniel ascended a new route on Deer Ridge Buttress (II, 5.8.). It begins 100 feet left of Rainbow Rock and follows a direct line up the slab from a...
Manda, Gangotri Region. Our team members were James Balog, leader, David Sweet, Mark Udall and I. With the help of 15 porters, on May 12 we established Base Camp on a small alp below the Manda Bamak (glacier) at 14,000 feet. After acclimatization ...
London Tower, Battle of Britain. In May, Tristan Gray-Le Coz and I, both of Ouray, Colorado, repeated several Ruth classics, established one new route, and had one new bail. While soloing Freezy Nuts to the summit of London Tower, I noticed a 10' ...
MACAULEY LETCHFIELD SMITH1905-1993Macauley Letchfield Smith was born in Louisville, Kentucky on March 10, 1905 and died on August 23, 1993. He graduated from Philips Academy Andover and received degrees from Yale and from the Harvard Law School. H...
The Gods Are Angry, by Wilfrid Noyce. Cleveland and New York: The World Publishing Company, 1957. 214 pages. Price $3.75.No one has a better right than Wilfrid Noyce to write a novel about a Himalayan expedition from the inside, after an apprentic...
From July 16 – August 6, upon the recommendation of well-known bush pilot and mountaineer Paul Claus, we visited the upper Granite Creek and Jefferies Glacier areas. From our drop-off point (3,014'; N 60°44'16", W 141°57'11") in upper Granite Cree...
Kusum Kanguru. Our original objective was the north face of Kusum Kanguru. Three days before our arrival at Base Camp, this 6000-foot-high wall was soloed by Hiroshi Aota. The bold Japanese persevered for two days through eight inches of heavy sno...
Antarctica, Various Ascents. The weather in interior Antarctic during the austral summer of 1998-’99 can best be described as chaotic. Frequent moist storms brought an abnormal amount of snow to this very dry part of the planet. The complications ...
Iscacuchu, Cololo, Huelancalloc and Other Peaks, Northern Pupuya Group, Cordillera Apolobamba. Steve Hillen, leader, Ian Burgess, Ian Diamond, David Lister, Tim and Kathy Mather, Ian Woolgar and I visited the southern Cordillera Apolobamba. This r...
Mount Tatum, Northeast Ridge. On July 7 to 10, my brother Steve Hackett and I climbed Mount Tatum (11,140 feet). We left Wonder Lake early on the 7th and spent the whole day walking to McGonagall Pass. The next day, after a late start, we ascended...
Peak 11,251. The first ascent of this double summit was made June 25, 1957 by Leigh and Irene Ortenburger during a traverse from Doane Peak to Eagles’ Rest Peak. The name, Anniversary Peak, was given to the mountain.
Karun Koh Attempt. Unclimbed Karun Koh (6977 meters, 22,891 feet) was attempted by German Dr. Karl Hub, Pakistanis Saad Tarek and Sidiqi and me. The peak lies north of the Shimshal valley. We began our approach June 24 from Murkhan, 12 miles north...
Kärnten and Osttirol, edited by Eduard Mussger. 200 pages of photographs with interspersed trilingual text. Klagenfurt: Mussger, 1952. Price, $2.50.This book initiates a regional series issued under the title of “Sonniges Alpenland,” with further ...
At the beginning of February 2011, Peter Fasoldt, Carsten von Birckhahn, and I began a new route on the southeast face of Aguja Desmochada. Due to the bitter cold and our general slowness we only made it up six pitches before bailing. The climbi...
Nanga Parbat, Diamir Face. Having left Rawalpindi on May 22, my wife Laurence de la Ferrière and I drove up the gorges of the Indus on the Karakoram Highway. We shared permission for Nanga Parbat with the Polish women led by Wanda Rutkiewicz. We s...
The Butcher; The Ascent of Yerupaja, by John Sack. 8 vo., 213 pages, 8 pages of illustrations. New York: Rinehart & Company, Inc., 1952. Price $3.00.This account of the 1950 expedition to Peru, which included four present A. A. C. members and ...
South-North Traverse. Reinhold Messner and his brother Dr. Hubert Messner completed a remarkable traverse of Greenland, which took them not only from the southern part of the island to the north but also across from the eastern to the western side...