One-day Climbs, Cordillera Real. It is possible to climb Andean peaks in a single day from La Paz. On my first season back in Bolivia after an absence of ten years, I took advantage of this unique situation and accumulated nine such climbs, as wel...
Denali National Park and Preserve, summary. The 2001 climbing season finished on a great note this year, with safe and successful experiences enjoyed by climbers, guides, and pilots, as well as the National Park Service. In fact long-time park emp...
Peaks above Gazin Gol. Munetsugu Nieda of the Gakushuin University Expedition led Mayayuki Tokita and Shigeo Chigira. They left Chitral on July 7 and traveled through Moroi, Brep and Gazin up the Gazin Gol to the Golash Gol where they established ...
Dhaulagiri II. An expedition of the Aichi Mountaineering Federation failed to climb Dhaulagiri II (24,775 feet). It consisted of Hiroshi Sugita, leader: Jujin Oki, Akira Kato, Kazuo Hiramatsu, Yutaka Hirose, Masayoshi Osawa, Tatsuya Amano, and Nob...
Mt. Gerdine, Northwest Ridge and various activity. On April 4 Johnny Soderstrom, Zach Shlosar, and I flew in with Paul Roderick of Talkeetna Air Taxi. Flying into this fairly unexplored area was quite an experience, being surrounded by untouched g...
Rocky Mountains of Colorado: (3) Kreuger Rock (near Estes Park). On 31 July 1948 Donald and Ralph Vodicka (15 and 17) were climbing on a rock spire called Kreuger Rock, near Estes Park. This pinnacle is easily climbed on one side; on the others, i...
Annapurna III, Southwest Face Attempt. Our expedition was made up of Guillem Arías, leader, Manuel Benavent, Josep Fuste, Joan Oliva, Dr. Anton Rañe and me. We left Pokhara on September 17. We prepared the route with fixed rope beyond Machapuchare...
Baltoro, by Prof. Dr. Gunter O. Dyhrenfurth and others (Hettie Dyhrenfurth, Hans Ertl, André Roch). 194 pages, 202 photographs ; 3 drawings: accompanying folder containing 4 panoramas, 50 sketches, 4 maps. Basel: Bruno Schwabe & Co., 1939.For ...
Tirich Mir East, East Ridge. The Polish-Yugoslavian expedition to Tirich Mir East was organized by the Klub Wysokogórski in Katowice and the Planinsko Društvo in Domižale, Yugoslavia. The leader was Stanislaw Rudzinski. Of the 60 volunteers, the...
The Ascent of OrizabaRollin T. ChamberlinON the brow of the Mexican Plateau, overlooking Vera Cruz and the Gulf from a distance of three score miles and ten, stands the isolated volcanic cone, Orizaba, the loftiest peak in North America, outside t...
Wyoming Rockies Teton RangeWith each season the Teton Range of Wyoming becomes more firmly established as a climbing center. In 1934 there were accomplished in these mountains 103 ascents as against the previous maximum of 73 (for 1933). As usual ...
Adam’s Rib. Early in 1971 Doug Robinson and I climbed a 1000-foot tower on Wheeler Crest named “The Smokestack.” It proved to be the most continuously difficult free climb of its length that either of us has encountered. Adam’s Rib is an equal-siz...
Mt. Marcus Baker, Sanctuary Ridge. After abandoning our original objective, the northwest ridge of Mt. Marcus Baker (13,176'), because of extremely fractured rock at 8,400', we cast about for an alternative objective. We selected a rib dividing th...
Climbs in the New Zealand AlpsPETER ROBINSONon December 24, 1955, I arrived in New Zealand to take up a Fulbright Scholarship for the study of geology at the University of Otago, Dunedin. In Dunedin I was welcomed by our honorary member, Professor...
FRITZ LIPPMANN 1921-1977Fritz Lippmann died on May 13, 1977, of metastatic cancer, after a long and debilitating illness. His climbing career started in the late 1930’s, and he became identified in 1940 as a member of a California climbing quartet...
Tsaranoro Atsimo, Southeast Spur, Life in a Fairy Tale. In September, Mark Wilford, Silvia and Craig Luebben and non-climbers Lane Ahem and Dhasa Bishop traveled to the Tsaranoro Massif in southern Madagascar. The climbers ascended three classic T...
Appalachian Mountains, Tennessee: Cumberland Plateau Region. On 25 May 1947 an accident occurred to a member of a rock-climbing group from Vanderbilt University. Five of the seven active participants had had previous experience in rock climbing. D...
Alaska, Mt. Hunter. During April of 1966, Dr. J. C. Duenwald was hospitalized for three days with a viral pneumonia after which there was a period of almost a month during which his physical activity was severely limited. Thus he had a great deal ...
FALL ON ROCK, FAILURE TO FOLLOW ROUTECalifornia, Mount WhitneyIn late July, half way up the East Face of Mt. Whitney, Cecile Wilson (37) fell five meters, shearing off a meter chunk of rock that had been anchoring the rope. She landed hard on a le...
United States: Activities of the ClubsA.A.C., Cascade Section. The Cascade Section of the A.A.C. held its Annual Fall Banquet in Seattle on 29 October 1949. Of the 35 members, scattered widely through Oregon and Washington, 18 attended. They and t...