“Dos Hermanos,” First Ascents. The team (six Chileans and two Argentines), met at Puerto Natales, Chile, in early February, 1999, and after receiving the necessary permits from the national authorities, sailed north toward Puerto Eden in Isla Wel...
Numbur. A joint Nepalese-Swiss expedition was co-led by Jacques Bouvier and Rinze Pasang Lama. There were seven Swiss and four Nepalese trying the 1963 Japanese route on the southwest ridge. They failed at 22,000 feet on May 21, having climbed fro...
Baltoro Kangri. Our objective was 23,990-foot Baltoro Kangri, formerly often called Golden Throne. Our party was composed of Professor Seihei Kato, leader; Dr. Hyoriki Watanabe, deputy leader; Sumio Shima, Keiko Fujimoto, Kiyoki Okada, Takeo Shiba...
Annapurna IV. Our expedition, organized by Auslandsbergfahrten of Graz, Austria, had five Austrians, eight Yugoslavs, two Swiss, a sirdar and two Sherpas. After an eight-day approach from Dumre to Omgre in the Marsiyandi valley in the last days of...
Simian Climbing Club. The 1967-1968 school year started for the Simians at the University of Illinois with the usual fall instructional trips to the sandstone cliffs at Portland Arch, Indiana. There were several trips as well to the Devils Lake cl...
Rassemblement International d’Alpinisme de Haut Niveau. The Rassemblement was held from July 8 to 21 at the Ecole Nationale de Ski et d’Alpinisme in Chamonix, France. All the climbers ate and slept there when they were not climbing. While the scho...
Princess Mountain, Northeast Buttress. Fred Beckey planned our gathering, and we flew into the Monarch Icefield in early August. Matt Perkins, David Parker, Bill Pilling, Fred, and I set up a camp below the west face of Monarch Mountain. The follo...
FALL ON ROCK–HAND-HOLD CAME LOOSE, CLIMBING UNROPEDWyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Symmetry SpireOn July 28 about 1630, Mark Sachs (36) called Teton Dispatch (who transferred the call to rescue coordinator George Montopoli) using a cell phone ...
North Howser Tower, Hey Kool-Aid!; South Howser Tower, Lost in the Talus; Pigeon Feathers, Peek-A-Boo and ICU. I never thought that here in the Bugaboos I would hold my breath for a crappy forecast. Bruce Miller and I had completed four new routes...
Mount Everest. There were Japanese climbers on Mount Everest both before and after the monsoon. An expedition of the Japanese Alpine Club was on the Khumbu Glacier reconnoitering for its proposed expedition to the southwest face. A second group wa...
Makalu Attempt and Kangchungtse Ascent. Our expedition hoped to climb Makalu by the original French route. We were Jordi Agulló, Jordi Anglés. Serge Benet, Antoni Bros, Dr. Josep Canyellas, Adrià Font, Jaume Matas, Jordi Montané, Francesc Zamora, ...
FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING UNROPED, INEXPERIENCEWashington, Mount WowOn June 7, 1985, James Slayton (19) and three friends drove from Ft. Lewis to Mount Rainier National Park to practice rappelling off a roadside cliff. One of the members of the party...
Cordillera Blanca. We organized a very light expedition, composed of Vincent Bourges and his wife, Michel Bertinoti, François Lespinasse, François Ucay, Veronique de Colombil, my wife and me. We left France with only 110 pounds of excess baggage a...
Electraglide Rock, Left Arête. On July 2, Bill and Kathie Morck and I made the first ascent of the left arête of Electraglide Rock (5.11-), which we called Bloody Monday. A tragic accident had occurred the day before when Jack Galati, a 20-year-ol...
Geographical DistrictsNumber of Accidents1951-67 DeathsTotal Persons InvolvedNumber of Accidents1968 DeathsTotal Persons InvolvedCanadaAlberta 191023517British Columbia311251516Yukon Territory 314134Ontario 111000Quebec111000United StatesAtlantic ...
Alaska, Mt. McKinley. On 29 April Jerrold Smith (27) and John Lutz (21) were descending on fixed line West of Kahiltna Notch. Either Smith or Lutz slipped and pulled the other off. There is no evidence that they were actually clipped to the fixed ...
Upper Paloma Valley, Hasta la Pinky. In the upper Paloma Valley, on February 9,2012, Paul Mangasarian and Eli Simon put up Hasta la Pinky, cracks and chimneys accessed via two snowfields (165m of climbing, five pitches, 5.7, 5.7, 5.9, 5.10b, 5.10b...
The Italian climber Renato Casarotto was trying to climb solo the long, then still unclimbed south-southwest ridge of K2 with a slight deviation to the right in the upper part. A first attempt ended at 8200 meters about June 23. A second try reach...
Harvard Mountaineering Club. The club has been active in many areas during the year. Our members were to be found climbing far afield from Cambridge in Yosemite, the Wind Rivers, the Tetons, the Needles of South Dakota, the Bernese Oberland, Mexic...
Cerro Lliboutry, first ascent, winter ascent. On July 20 Abdo Fernández and I, both Chilean, flew to Punta Arenas and from there traveled overland to Chalten. We intended to accomplish the first ascent of Cerro Lliboutry (1,980m), located 10km nor...