Accident Tables ANAM
Reported Mountaineering Accidents, Table I

Number of Accidents ReportedTotal Number of Persons InvolvedInjuredKilledYearUSA-CAN.USA-CAN.USA-CAN.USA-CAN.195114211031952293217131953242714121954324231819553439266195646715113195745532818195832382211195942–256–228–019–2196047–463–1235–819–41961...


Accident Reports ANAM
Alaska, Mt. McKinley

Alaska, Mt. McKinley. A Japanese party of nine climbers, Yukio Mir- mura (30), Mamoru Oyoshi (28), Ryomei Asao (28), Masahiko Fukuhan (27), Hideaki Yoshinari (25), Kazuo Yoneda (25), Yasuo Okino (24), Muneshige Noda (24), and Shinichi Hara (24), w...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India—Himachal Pradesh (Punjab), Deo Tibba

Deo Tibba. Masayoshi Matsudate and the Sherpa Phu Dorje climbed Deo Tibba (19,687 feet) on May 28. Other members of the Nambu Mountaineering Club expedition were Yoetsu Matsuda, Nobuhisa Murayama and Mistuyoshi Mori.KAMAL K. GUHA, Himalayan Club


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Atardecer, Al Centro y Adentro Chile, Northern Patagonia, Cochamó

In February 2012, North American J.B. Haab and I opened Al Centro y Adentro (12 pitches, 5.11c) on Atardecer, a previously unclimbed wall in the Anfiteatro of Cochamó. The route follows 450m of nearly vertical splitter cracks and fun face up the c...

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| Published 2012 | Author Daniel Seeliger


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, K2, South-Southwest Ridge Attempt and Tragedy

K2, South-Southwest Ridge Attempt and Tragedy. Our expedition reached Base Camp on May 31 and took its place in line on the moraine of the Godwin Austen Glacier. We found ourselves among nine expeditions on the south side and four expeditions on t...


Club Activities AAJ
Colorado Mountain Club

Colorado Mountain Club. Continued growth, accompanied by an increase in all activities, characterized The Colorado Mountain Club during the past year. Membership currently stands at 4800, 10% more that at the start of the year.Ten outings, a week ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Argentina and Chile, Southern Patagonia, Argentina, Hielo Continental, Cerro Murallón, Gone with the Wind

Cerro Murallón, Gone with the Wind. On the north pillar of Cerro Murallón (2,831m), Stefan Glowacz and Robert Jasper made the first ascent of Gone with the Wind (1,200m to summit plateau, 27 pitches, 7c+ A2 M4), in November. See Glowacz’s feature ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Mount Torbert from the West and P 6750, Tordrillo Mountains

Mount Torbert from the West and P 6750, Tordrillo Mountains. As far as we know, our ascent of Torbert (3479 meters, 11,413 feet) was the first from the west and only the third ascent of the peak. Rod Wilson’s party made the first ascent in 1964 fr...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Climbing Unroped, Inadequate Equipment, Exceeding Abilities, Inexperience, Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Lake Louise Area, Castle Crags

FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING UNROPED, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, EXCEEDING ABILITIES, INEXPERIENCEAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Lake Louise Area, Castle CragsClarence and Lyle went hiking up toward Castle Crags on August 5, 1991. From the Plain of Six Glaciers t...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Annapurna IV  

Annapurna IV. An Indonesian expedition of six was led by Miss Aryati, who completed the 23rd ascent of Annapurna IV (7525 meters, 24,688 feet) with Sherpas Dorje, Lhakpa, Chonga Norbu and Ang Temba on November 14. They climbed the normal northwest...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Kyrgyzstan, Tien Shan, Tengri Tag, Pik Pobeda (7,439m), North Face to West Ridge

Pik Pobeda (7,439m), north face to west ridge. At the end of August, Russians Vitaly Gorelik and Gleb Sokolov made the first ascent of the north face of the formation known as the Camel on the west ridge of Pik Pobeda. The objective dangers on the...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India—Himachal Pradesh, Gangstang, Lahoul

Gangstang, Lahoul. An Indian expedition led by Nirmal Gopal Chatterjee climbed Gangstang, first ascended by Italians in 1945. After ascendthe Biling Lampa stream, which flows into the Chandra River, they set up Base Camp on August 30. Other camps ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Pumori, Kusum Kanguru Tragedies, 1991

Kusum Kanguru Tragedies, 1991. Ulric and Cathy Jessop were married in October, 1991 and decided to spend their honeymoon climbing in the Nepalese Himalaya. Their objective was the northwest ridge of Kusum Kanguru (6367 meters, 20,889 feet). They a...


Club Activities AAJ
Harvard Mountaineering Club

Harvard Mountaineering Club. Last summer found club members relatively inactive in comparison with the activities of the summer of 1955. There was no major expedition organized by the club to South America or to the Himalayas, nor was there a clim...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Argentina-Chilean Patagonia, Southern Patagonian Icecap Traverse

Southern Patagonian Icecap Traverse. John Schutt, Mark Houston, Kathy Cosley and I made a crossing of the Southern Patagonian Icecap from the Fitz Roy region to Lago Argentina. We approached the icecap via the Río Túnel on February 28. The aptly n...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Karakoram, Hispar Muztagh, Pumari Chhish South, First Ascent

Pumari Chhish South, first ascent. On their third attempt over two years (2003 and 2007), Yannick Graziani and Christian Trommsdorff completed the first ascent of Pumari Chhish South (7,350m) over six days in June. The two men climbed the 2,700m s...


Accident Reports ANAM
Falling Rock, Poor Position, Washington, North Twin Sister

FALLING ROCK, POOR POSITION Washington, North Twin SisterOn June 6, 1993, a group of five Bellingham Mountaineers were ascending the South Face to the West Ridge of North Twin Sister on the second day of a Basic Course. They started up a short gul...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, USSR, Pik Lenina, Second Winter Ascent

Pik Lenina, Second Winter Ascent. Our expedition was led by Lenonid A. Troshchinenko and consisted of 24 people. Deputy leader was Aleksandr Glushkovski and I was leader of the support team. After leaving Leningrad on January 13, we arrived at Ach...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Jobo Rinjang (6,778m), Ascent and Nomenclature Asia, Nepal, Rolwaling Himal

In April David Gottlieb and Joe Puryear made the first ascent of Jobo Rinjang, by the 1,700m south face. They were not aware the peak had been attempted [by Stéphane Schaffter’s expedition; see above] until they arrived at the Ministry to collect ...

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Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Tibet, Chang Tang, Unsupported Crossing

Chang Tang, unsupported crossing. Janne Corax and Nadine Saulnier from Sweden are claiming the first complete north to south crossing of the Chang Tang. The journey took 46 days, and although the pair hoped to climb several peaks en route (includi...