NUT FAILURE—California, Yosemite, Washington Column. Thomas Beck (28) and Ken Baldrey (23) were attempting to climb the South Face of Washington Column (V 5.8, A3) using only nuts. On the third pitch, Beck was leading and pulled out a small stoppe...

LOSS OF CONTROL OF GLISSADE, OFF ROUTE, POOR POSITION British Columbia, Rocky Mountains, Mount NaraoS.C. and K.D. set out fairly early on June 21,1994, to climb the north ice gully on the east face of Mt. Narao (2974 meters), and reached the summi...

Everest Solo Attempt. We established Base Camp and Advance Base on April 1 and 7.1 had support from Margaret-Anne Seddon and Pasang Norbu and Kassang Tsering as far as Advance Base at 5500 meters on the Central Rongbuk Glacier. I ascended the glac...

Gaugiri, second ascent of southwest ridge. On August 27 Austrians Johannes Mihatsch, Anna and Edmund Wirbel, together with Guna Bahadur Tamang and Pisail Tamang made the fourth overall ascent of Gaugiri (6,110m) but the second ascent of the origin...

K2 Attempt, Rescue, Recovery of Bodies of Long-Lost Climbers and Micro-Hydroelectric Project. Our members were my wife Julie-Ann Clyma, Alan Hinkes, Victor Saunders and I as leader. We arrived at Base Camp on June 30 and made rapid progress on the...

Shivling, northeast face direct, attempt. An eight-member expedition from the Corean Alpine Club made an attempt on the unclimbed direct route up the northeast face of Shivling (6,543m). The climbing proved to be steep, with avalanche danger, but ...

Cerro Torre, South Face. Italians Ermanno Salvaterra, Piergiorgio Vidi, and Roberto Mani developed a new route, Infmito Sud (VII 7 A4), over 23 days in November, using a specially designed three-level aluminum-kevlar box to withstand the brutal co...

Marcus Baker, Chugach Mountains. On June 6 Wendell Oderkirk, Bob Smith and Patrick Freeney were airlifted to 8500 feet on the Knik Glacier. They spent the rest of the day moving 1½ miles closer to the peak, but camping at more or less the same alt...

Just before his death Galen Rowell edited a new edition of High & Wild: Essays and Photographs on Wilderness Adventure (Spotted Dog Press, $34.95). In his review of the first edition in the 1980 AAJ Charles Houston said, “It is by far his fine...

Taulliraju Attempt. Clark Gerhardt, Kristian (Del) Langbauer, Todd Thompson and I, accompanied by Juan Henostroza and Aquilino Moreno, established Base Camp on June 26 below Taulliraju’s impressive west face. Unaware of the Italian attempt in 1976...

Glacier National Park, Various Activity. The 1998-’99 ice climbing season was largely a feast of leftovers in Glacier National Park. Routes that had been on the table for years but were not as choice as the rest finally got devoured. Many of these...

The Mountaineering Club of Alaska. The following activities are the more notable ones in which our members participated during 1966: In Alaska’s Chugach Range first ascents were made of Mount Rumble (7350 feet) by Vin Hoeman and David Meyers, Eagl...

Kula Kangri, west ridge attempt. A French commercial expedition jointly led by lean Annequin and Ludovic Challeat attempted the west ridge of Kula Kangri from its base. Previous parties (there have been three ascents: Japanese in 1986, Austrians i...

Mount Robson, Emperor Ridge Variation. On Mount Robson on September 17 Bryan Becker and I made an interesting and probably new variation to the regular north-face route. Instead of taking the normal start up the Berg Glacier, we climbed a narrow 4...

First Ascents in the Southern Monashees. The main difficulties in the Monashee Mountains are usually found below 5000 feet in the deep bushy river valleys. To overcome this problem, Barbara Lilley, Jess Logan, my wife Marcia and I hired a helicopt...

RAPPEL ERROR–ROPES UNEVEN, RAPPEL OFF END OF ROPE, NO HELMETColorado, Eldorado State ParkJust Another Girl’s Climb (5.12) on Lower Peanuts Wall begins on a ledge about fifty feet off the ground requiring a scramble for access. On September 6, a fo...

Xixabangma, new variant to normal north side route. On October 3 Inaki Ochoa de Olza reached the main summit of Xixabangma (8,012m) having made what is believed to be a new variant on the north face. The Spanish climber followed the normal route t...

Theri Sar. Professor Ardito Desio led a geological expedition to the Hunza valley and Skardu area. Dr. Ercole Martina made the first ascent of Theri Sar (16,568 feet) by the north wall. The mountain was reached from Misgar village and Barah valley...

Motint Logan and Cascade Peak. George Denton and Peter Lev reached the summit of Mount Logan on June 20 as members of a team conducting high altitude studies of snow statigraphy in behalf of the Cold Regions Research and Engineering Laboratory. Th...

At the Colorado Mountain Club annual camp, which was this year placed on the western side of the Wind River mountains in Wyoming, a number of new ascents were made. Peak No. 6 (Cf. A.A.J., Vol. I, No. 2, map op. p. 130) was climbed on August 5th b...