FALL ON ICE, ILLNESSNew Hampshire, Stairs MountainOn November 24, 1984, Rob Walker (27) and Matt Peer had walked six kilometers to a remote ice climb on Stairs Mountain. After ascending twelve meters unroped, Walker apparently fainted as he was tr...
FALLING ROCK–DISLODGEDColorado, McCurdy State Park, BlockbusterMy partner was injured while climbing a route near “Blockbuster” on September 9. A loose block (about 6x6x4 feet) pulled while he was following. He struck his knee on the way down. Tha...
Split Mountain, “Horseshoe Arête.” While climbing Middle Palisade, Cameron Burns and I noticed a massive ridge coming off P 13,803, curving west, northwest and finally north, encircling Lake 11,599 and forming a huge north- facing bowl. In late Au...
Upuigma Tepui, Nido del Tiric-tiric. In February, after flying from Santa Elena der Uruyen to the Pemmon village of Yunek, two days’ walk took us to base camp. Then Kurt Albert, Bernd Arnold, Ivan Calderon, and I opened Nido del Tiric-tiric (350m,...
FALL ON ROCKColorado, Black Canyon of the Gunnison, Escape ArtistA 37-year-old climber fell yesterday afternoon (October 23) at the Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park while ascending the Escape Artist route on the North Rim wall. Nearby cl...
Alpamayo to north ridge, Sensations of History. On August 8 the Catalans Josep Escruela and Tino Tain climbed the gully to the right of the Ferrari Route. From the Alpamayo-Quitaraju pass they reached the start of the Spanish-Chilean Route, subseq...
California: (2) Devil's Slide, near San Francisco. On 24 September 1950 Harry E. Bates, 46, of Oakland, fell 75 feet to his death while trying to climb down the sheer face of this sea cliff. He had climbed about 20 feet down the side when he sudde...
Aguas Calientes, Second Ascent. Brian Baker and I formed the 1991 British Andean Volcanoes Expedition, which lasted from July 28 to September 7. We climbed Licancabur (5916 meters, 19,411 feet) on August 5, Aguas Calientes (5924 meters, 19,435 fee...
Over the course of a week in the Cordillera Central in late May, Beto Pinto and I opened three new lines of difficulty MD+. The north face of Suiricocha (5,495m) had nine pitches, finishing with a steep (80°+) pitch of ice and loose rock. The we...
Gasherbrum I (Hidden Peak) Attempt. We were Dr. Dave Bong, Gary Le Moine, Richard Soaper and Ethan Van Matre, lead team, and Jonell Geller, Bill and Dana Isherwood and I, support team. We reached the 17,400-foot Gasherbrum Base Camp at the conflue...
Northern Selkirks. August 1955 saw the Northern Selkirks under siege by a group of eight climbers, including Graham Matthews, David Michael, and Richard Irvin. The initial phase was the air drop of supplies at Tangier Summit and on the Sir Sandfor...
Fisher Towers, 1992-3. The major event of the Fisher Towers was Rob Slater’s repeat of all the towers listed in Eric Bjørnstad’s Desert Rock, including all the “Mystery Towers” and River Tower, a grand total of 23 formations— nothing short of outs...
LOOSE ROCK, UNROPED FALLAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Grassi Lakes areaWhile hiking with friends near Canmore on September 22, 1990, Mark undertook some solo climbing on the rock faces next to the second lake. He was about three meters off the ground ...
HAPE, FAILURE TO TURN BACKAlaska, Mount McKinley, West ButtressOn May 11, a guided client (52) first started experiencing a productive cough and wet lung sounds at 11,200 feet. After a carry from 11,200 feet to 13,500 feet, he felt a bit better an...
Kunyang Chhish Tragedy. A Japanese expedition led by Seichi Wada tried unsuccessfully to climb Kunyang Chhish. On July 19 Takumi Onuma fell and was killed after his rope was cut by a falling block of ice. Further details are not available.
Langsisa Ri in Winter. A Korean expedition led by Lee Dong-Myung made the sixth ascent of Langsisa Ri, climbing its south face. On December 14, Kim Bo-Youl and Dawa Tshering Sherpa reached the summit.Elizabeth Hawley
Trango Valley, first ascent of The Flame, new route on Shipton Spire. In August Josh Wharton and I, hailing from Colorado, put up two new routes in the Trango Valley of Pakistan. Following a 40-day stint of rain, broken up by two clear days to rel...
Tilitso, Post-Monsoon. There were two successful expeditions to Tilitso (7134 meters, 23,406 feet) in the post-monsoon season. Fourteen Swiss and a Pole from the University of Bern, led by Karl Kobler, climbed the northeast spur to the north ridge...
Castle Rock, Tumwater Canyon. Bruce Gibbs, Ed Cooper, and Ron Priebe climbed the last clean route left on this rock early in the spring. This route, called the “Century,” followed a long rib just to the right of the “Sabre” chimney, and was primar...
Arizona Mountaineering Club. The A.M.C. finished a typically Standard year in 1985. We taught more than 60 people beginning rock climbing during our biennial basic climbing school near Phoenix. We also taught a small advanced rock-climbing school ...