Accident Reports ANAM
Falling Rock, Momentary Inattentiveness, Washington, Dome Peak

FALLING ROCK, MOMENTARY INATTENTIVENESS Washington, Dome PeakOn August 8, 1988, Jeff Becker (29) was fatally injured while descending the south ridge of Dome Peak.We were a party of four, a family outing, having begun the Ptarmigan Traverse at Ste...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Washington-Cascade Mountains, Davis Peak, Northeast Face

Davis Peak, Northeast Face. On July 12, Dallas Kloke and I climbed this 2000-foot face, beginning directly below the summit and reaching the summit ridge just south of it. It took one long day from our car in Diablo. NCCS III, F6.Bryce Simon, unaf...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Revelation Mountains, Various Ascents in the Revelation Mountains

Various Ascents in the Revelation Mountians. Doug Beyerly, Calvin Hebert, Scott Raynor, and I flew into Fish Creek Glacier in the Revelations on May 3. During our three weeks in the Revelation Mountains we ascended P. 8,215 (Goose Peak) by its nor...


Accident Reports ANAM
Stranded, Inadequate Clothing, Weather, California, Yosemite National Park, Stately Pleasure Dome

STRANDED, INADEQUATE CLOTHING, WEATHER California, Yosemite National Park, Stately Pleasure DomeOn July 14, 1992, Gary Damsley (23) and Allyson Pendleton (29) became stranded during a rain storm they experienced one pitch from the top of South Cra...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock — Incomplete Tie-In Knot, Colorado, Eldorado Canyon State Park

FALL ON ROCK - INCOMPLETE TIE-IN KNOTColorado, Eldorado Canyon State ParkOn May 28, Colin Gregg (34) was top-roping the first pitch of C’est La Vie (5.9) on Redgarden Wall. He had difficulty at a crux about 30 feet off the starting belay ledge (wh...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Baintha Brakk, North Ridge Attempt

Baintha Brakk, North Ridge Attempt. Our expedition had as its members Andy Perkins, Chris Flewitt, Steve Hartland, Phil Butler, Dave Green, Dr. Timothy Jordan, Paul Nunn and me. After porter problems, we eventually established Base Camp on July 17...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Sherpi Kangri Attempt

Sherpi Kangri Attempt. We did not get permission to attempt Batura Mustagh I and had to be content with unclimbed Sherpi Kangri, attempted by Japanese last year. The reason given us was that because of the construction of the Karakoram Highway the...


Accident Reports ANAM
Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park (2)

Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park (2)—On July 11, 1956 Felix Knauth (26), Carol Rudnick (23) and Sylvia Kenshaw (32) had made an attempt to reach the summit of Mt. Owen, but did not complete the ascent and began their return to base camp. Felix K...


Accident Reports ANAM
Hypothermia, Exposure, Weather, Inadequate Clothing, Alaska, Mount McKinley

HYPOTHERMIA, EXPOSURE, WEATHER, INADEQUATE CLOTHING Alaska, Mount McKinleyOn May 22, 1994, Korean climbers Sang Myeung Lee (25) and Kee Won Kim (27) departed from the 14,200 foot West Buttress camp on Mount McKinley. They climbed the headwall west...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Tibet, Kangri Garpo, Reconnaissance of Ruoni (6,882m)

Kangri Garpo, reconnaissance of Ruoni (6,882m). The Alpine Club of Kobe University obtained a permit from the China Mountaineering Association (CMA) to climb the highest peak in Kangri Garpo in the fall of | 2003. In October 2002, they sent a reco...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Mount Geist, North Face

Mount Geist, North Face. This 3000-foot face was climbed in August by Jim Jennings, Bill Kitson and Geoff Radford.


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Greenland, Swiss East Greenland Expedition

Swiss East Greenland Expedition. Max Gubser, Heiner Hagenbuch, Max Zumbühl, Ruedi Sauser, Chäpp Schindler, Otto Häfliger, Ueli Imdorf and I as leader spent eight weeks in the mountains of the so-called Schweizerland on the east coast of Greenland....


Accident Reports ANAM
HACE, Alaska, Mount McKinley, West Buttress

HACEAlaska, Mount McKinley, West ButtressOn June 12, Ka Eui-Ryong of the Korean Alpine Club Su Won Expedition, was unable to stand or walk without assistance. Eui-Ryong was lowered from the 17,200 foot camp, to the 14,200 foot NPS Ranger Camp on t...


Book Reviews AAJ
Manual of American Mountaineering

Manual of American Mountaineering, edited by Kenneth A. Henderson. American Alpine Club, New York. Privately printed for purposes of copyright and not available for distribution. Trade edition to be issued by Houghton Mifflin Co. early in 1942.Thi...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Australasia, Irian Jaya, Carstenz Pyramid, Various Ascents

Carstensz Pyramid, Various Ascents. The main aim was to climb Carstensz and by a new route if possible. After a six-day approach, we arrived at basecamp. On May 10, Tom Callaghan, Chris Brown, Mark Bowen and myself left for Carstenz East. We scram...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Washington, Cascade Mountains, Mount Challenger, West Peak

M.ount Challenger, West Peak. The first ascent of this peak was made by Ellie Street, Fred Beckey and me on July 14 from a Base Camp on Challenger Arm by angling across and up the Challenger Glacier to the west ridge of the peak. We ascended very ...


Book Reviews AAJ
Holz Bemalen, Kerb Schnitzen

Holz Bemalen, Kerb Schnitzen, by Christian Rubi. 135 pages, profusely illustrated by drawings and photgraphs, with several color plates. Bern: Verlag Hans Huber, 1951. Price, $3.25.The Bernese Heimatschutz, which encourages the perpetuation of old...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Washington - Cascade Mountains, Eldorado, West Arete

Eldorado, West Arête. On August 24, 1969, Richard Emerson and I made the first ascent of the 2800-foot arête that leads directly up the west face to the summit of Eldorado. (Pete Schoening’s 1951 route is to the right (south) of this climb – Edito...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Canadian Arctic, Stewart Valley Correction

Stewart Valley Correction. In A.A.J., 1978 on page 553 part of the location was omitted. It should have read “70° 45’ N, 71° 30’ E.”


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Wrangell-St. Elias Mountains, Peak 3596, East Face

Peak 3596, East Face. It was reported that in June, Eddie Fay, Dan Krueger and Jay Rowe made the first ascent of the 3,000-foot east face of Peak 3596 in Prince William Sound. The trio climbed 14 rock pitches up to 5.10+ C2, followed by 1,000 feet...