AVALANCHEUtah, PfeifferhornOn November 21, 1982, John Rehmer (29) and Dave Bjorkland (25) skied the five- hour approach to the base of the East Ridge of the Pfeifferhorn without realizing the recent build-up of high-ridge windslab. They then dropp...
FALLS ON ROCK, FAILURE TO FOLLOW ROUTE, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONCalifornia, Sierra Nevada, Charlotte DomeOn July 7, 1984, Michael Renta (37) was off route on the eighth pitch (5.7) of Charlotte’s Web when he injured his ankle and ribs in a five to si...
Frederika Mountain, Wrangell Mountains. Frederika is a beautiful, snow cone just east of Mount Regal. The mountain was first named Mount Abercrombie but was later given its present name in honor of Frederick Schwatka, an early USGS explorer to the...
Thalay Sagar, Attempt on the North Face. Dr. X. Bigard, H. Giot, H. Sachetat, P. Royer, D. Seguier, J.P. Chaligne, liaison officer Malkeit Singh Meit and I left Gangotri on August 27 and after a three-day approach got to Base Camp at Kedartal at 1...
Mount Bryce, Winter Ascent. The east ridge of Mount Bryce was climbed in January by Joe Mckay and Greg Colorach for the first winter ascent of the peak. The pair bypassed the central peak to reach the summit. This had been the elusive goal of many...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount BridgelandOn July 31, 1988, a party of six established camp at an altitude of 2200 meters at the base of Mount Bridgeland. Next morning at 0500, they set out for the summit via th...
MICHAEL R. FRANKLIN1945-1996Michael R. Franklin, born December 31, 1945, in Boston, Massachusetts, was killed in an auto accident on January 3 near his home in Herriman, Utah. He is survived by his wife, Cheryl.Michael joined the AAC in 1983. An e...
Kanglacha. All members of a 14-man Japanese expedition led by Yoshio Ogose reached the summit of Kanglacha (6150, 20,177 feet) on August 11, 13 and 17.
Wind River Range. A number of interesting climbs were made in this region by a group from the Appalachian Mountain Club, as well as an ascent of Gannett Peak by our member, Orrin H. Bonney, with two local boys. A group of ten from the Appalachian ...
Mount Sinclair, Coast Range. Jerry Buckley, Joe Greenough and I made the first ascent of Mount Sinclair (c. 7000 feet) in mid-June, 1973. It is located 3½ miles from tidewater near the eastern shore of Lynn Canal, 60 miles northwest of Juneau. We ...
Mount Index, Middle Peak, West Face. This ascent was made by Don Gordon (Claunch) and me on June 12 with a planned bivouac on the descent about 600 feet below the summit. The lower portions of this gigantic face, about 2800 feet high, had been att...
Kangchenjunga, Ramtang, And Medical Research. Base Camp was established at Pangpema at 5100 meters on the north side of Kangchenjunga. Chris Comerie and his seven-strong climbing team attempted to repeat the 1979 Boardman-Tasker-Scott route on Kan...
FALL ON ICE – PLACED NO PROTECTION, INEXPERIENCEAlberta, Canadian Rockies, Waterton National ParkOn January 1, a group of climbers met at a popular ice climbing area in Waterton National Park. Upon arriving at the base of the climbs, it was discov...
K2 Attempt. Our expedition of French guides consisted of Francis Chaud, Alain Hantz, Titou Sagot, my husband Jean-Jacques Rolland, Dr. Bernard Hostein and me as leader. Having arrived at Base Camp on June 4, the whole team got to 7000 meters on Ju...
Clachnacudainn Range, Mount Revelstoke National Park, British Columbia. Around and near the Clachnacudainn Snowfield the small granite peaks of the Clachnacudainn Range rise to an altitude of more than 8600 feet. Although outlying peaks had been c...
Lhotse South Face Tragedy. Although two expeditions from Katowice, Poland had already tried this tremendous wall, both times they had lacked luck—one or two windless days when the attacking teams were high. This year we managed to organize a team ...
Mount Asgard, Northwest Face, Cumberland Peninsula, Baffin Island. In mid-July Pat Padden, Shary McVoy, Rick Sylvester, and I were finally on our way to the unclimbed northwest face of Mount Asgard. Upon our arrival at the Eskimo village of Pangni...
In late August Ole Ivar Lied and I climbed a new route toward the right side of Blammanen’s north face. Luna (430m, Nor 5+ A3) starts 15-20m right of Frost (M5 A3, Bo-Nebell, 2007) and in the first section follows a well-defined line. Above, the r...
FALLING ROCK, MOMENTARY INATTENTIVENESS Washington, Dome PeakOn August 8, 1988, Jeff Becker (29) was fatally injured while descending the south ridge of Dome Peak.We were a party of four, a family outing, having begun the Ptarmigan Traverse at Ste...
Davis Peak, Northeast Face. On July 12, Dallas Kloke and I climbed this 2000-foot face, beginning directly below the summit and reaching the summit ridge just south of it. It took one long day from our car in Diablo. NCCS III, F6.Bryce Simon, unaf...