Toro Peak, south face, Direttissma; Tamadonog, Long Life Ridge. On August 27 Anna Pfaff and I arrived at the usual Miyar Valley base camp after blue skies during our three-day trek, and then had to wait out a three-day storm. We scoped a direct li...
Huayna Potosí. After our climbs in the Cordillera Blanca, Don McKay of the New Zealand expedition and I traveled south to Bolivia as ordinary tourists. After leaving the Titicaca boat, we journeyed all afternoon by rail in full view of the Cordill...
1951-741975GeographicalDistrictsNumberofAccidentsDeathsTotalPersonsInvolvedNumberofAccidentsDeathsTotalPersonsInvolvedCanadaAlberta512066British Columbia8229152Yukon Territory101028Ontario111Quebec111West Arctic112Practice Cliffs 11214United State...
Chomo LonzoA French national expedition pioneers two 7,000~meter-plus peaks in Tibet.Yannick GrazianiFor the first time in my experience, a high-altitude expedition is entirely sponsored. This makes it so easy to leave—all we have to do is to show...
Mount McKinley: The Conquest of Denali. Bradford Washburn and David Roberts. Preface by Ansel Adams. Photographs mostly by Bradford Washburn (more than 120 illustrations, including 77 photographs in duotone, 41 in full color). Text by Bradford Was...
K7 West (6,615m), southeast buttress, not to summit. We arrived in the Charakusa with no single plan, but were quickly captivated by the beautiful southeast buttress of K7 West. We saw that this sheer wall, which begins at 5,000m, could be logical...
This is the thirty-first issue of Accidents in North American Mountaineering, and the second that has been edited and published jointly by The American Alpine Club and The Alpine Club of Canada.Canada: Forty-three accidents are known to us to have...
WILLIAM W. HOOKER1934-1974The Peruvian Andes were a familiar mountain range for Bill Hooker. I first met him there in 1972 when we were climbing together from a base camp in the Quebrada Santa Cruz. It was his second trip to Peru— having been in t...
The North Face of Mount BrusselsGlenn RandallDANE WATERMAN AND I had met only a week before beneath the 5000-foot north face of North Twin. Both of us had come to the Canadian Rockies planning to climb that face. In separate attempts, both of us h...
Manaslu, Kazakh Route. Kazakh super-high-altitude climbers, Sergei Samoilov and Denis Urubko, followed their very impressive 2005 alpine style new route on the southwest face of Broad Peak with a new route on the northeast face of 8,163m Manaslu. ...
AVALANCHE – FAILURE TO ANALYZE SNOWPACK, POOR POSITIONWyoming, Snowy RangeOn November 6th, Brice Portwood (27) and I (Ed Warren – 25) were trying to climb a mixed route (a summer rock route, but never climbed as a mixed/ice climb as far as we know...
RAYMOND C. GARNER1913-1989Ray Garner died after a short illness on July 20 at the age of 76. His untimely death cut short yet another adventure in his life. The following month, he and his wife Jinny were planning to return to the sites of early m...
Fallen Giants: A History of Himalayan Mountaineering from the Age of Empire to the Age of Extremes. Maurice Isserman & Stewart Weaver. Yale University Press, 2008. 579 pages. Black and white photos. Hardcover $ 39.95.When two professional hist...
The TuskGary SpeerI WAS PSYCHED. The loose holds, a slippery wet gully, and rockfall had taken its toll. How did Paul lead this thing? It wasn’t very hard, maybe 5.7, but it was nasty—loose and wet. It was here that Paul took a twenty-foot leader ...
Ce Monde Qui N’Est Pas Le Nôtre, by Robert Tezénas du Montcel. Paris: Gallimard, 1965. 201 pages. Price: 10 F.This slim volume by the former president of the Groupe de Haute Montagne (G.H.M.) of which he has been a member since 1924, is most refre...
Mount Everest, Khumbu Himal, Rolwaling Himal I Khumbakarna Himal, Satellite Image Map (1:1,000,000), Jan Zurawski.K2 and the Baltoro Glacier in the Karakoram, Satellite Image Map (1:80,000), Grzegorz Glazek. Both by the Polish Mountaineering Assoc...
CARL A. BLAUROCK1894-1993I first met my long-time friend and climbing companion, Carl Blaurock, in 1920 on a scheduled trip of the Colorado Mountain Club to the Crestone Needle in the Sangre de Cristo Range. The mountain, according to local knowle...
Turret Mountain and Mount Geikie, The Ramparts. After encountering the typical Mount Robson weather in which Chris Jones and I were blown off the Kain Face and finally settled for the normal route, we joined George Lowe and Dean Hannibal for a wee...
California, Death Valley National Monument, Telescope Peak—At 9:00 a.m. on November 26, Richard Lee Hill (17) left his parents at Mahogany Flat Campground (elev. 8,000 feet) in the Panamint Mountains, to make a solo ascent of Telescope Peak (11,04...
A Game of PatienceThe Northeast Summit of the Rooster CombBERNARD AMY, Club Alpin Français Translated by H. Adams CarterBECAUSE one day follows another in the diary you write out yonder it would seem necessary to recount the arrival, Base Camp, th...