Chiantar Glacier Area, Exploration. From the virgin summits reached during the course of the 1997 Karambar expedition (see AAJ 1998, p. 315), an incredible vision opened before our eyes to the south: the vast, incredible expanse of the Chiantar Gl...
MY VENDETTA WITH Mount Hunter started in the late 1960’s with Bradford Washburn’s pictures in the American Alpine Journal. Mount Hunter, the third highest summit in the immediate environs of Mount McKinley, or better Denali, and I, a recent h...
Geographical Districts1951–20042005Number of AccidentsDeathsTotal Persons InvolvedNumber of AccidentsDeathsTotal Persons InvolvedCANADAAlberta51414210336010British Columbia30711464110516Yukon Territory3527772110New Brunswick100000Ontario37967000Qu...
The Toose’s MoothMixed adventures on the north face of the Moose ’s Toothby Seth ShawIn the summer of 1994, Scott Simper, Kevin Sweeney and I, having climbed the relatively benign West Ridge route of the Moose’s Tooth, stood on top of the West Sum...
The Sierra Nevada, a slice of the earth’s crust 400 miles long and a hundred wide, was tilted upward along a fault line on its eastern edge. No cataclysm, this tilting took millions of years. When the range had attained nearly its present heigh...
Utah Mountaineering Guide, (and the best canyon hikes). Michael R. Kelsey. Kelsey Publishing Co. Springville, Utah, 1983.Utah is a state rich in its variety of natural wonders, both in mountains and desert. When you top out on a ridge or swing aro...
Peak Milo (pik 4,800) and Peak Misha (pik 4,750), ski descents. Martin Strasser and I went to the Kuilu range, travelling to the site of Pat Littlejohns base camp (ca 3,300m) in a surplus Soviet military vehicle (2001 AAJ, Pat Littlejohn, p. 341–2...
CHRIS PIZZO and Dick Dietz were right at home—pain and exhaustion are an essential part in the upbringing of serious expedition climbers and marathon runners. The two were attempting to climb the Peak of Communism in a single push from Camp III at...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONWest Virginia, New River Gorge, Endless WallOn November 12, rangers and Fayette County Emergency Services personnel rescued a climber (age unknown) who had fallen at the Endless Wall climbing area. Rangers Randy ...
Alaska and the YukonWest Buttress of Mount McKinley, 1952. In the 1952 Journal it was suggested that air support is necessary for success on the western side of McKinley. Our group tried unsuccessfully to get permission from the National Park Serv...
Romsdal, Mongejura (1,200m), southwest face, El Pinche Borrego. In July David Font Ventura, Jordi Cañigueral Vilá, Jordi Servosa Roca, and I took about to open a new route in Norway. The first idea was to try to open a route on the Troll wall but ...
Land der Namenlosen Berge, by Dr. Herbert Tichy. 221 pages, 33 photographs, including 4 in color, 4 sketch maps. Vienna: Ullstein and Company, 1954.Motivated more by a desire for exploration and its wider variety of adventure than for climbing pea...
Chicago Mountaineering Club. 1960 was the twentieth year of the club’s operation; the organization now has 158 members with 50 qualified rope leaders. The year’s activities once again consisted of training and rockclimbing week-ends throughout the...
Bhrigupath Attempt and Bhrigu Pathar. Britons Kevin O’Neale, Martin Welch, Ian Drigg and I were active in the Gangotri region in mid-September. The Bhagirathi Glacier and its encircling mountain faces had remained unexplored until our visit. Only ...
Meditations on the Peaks: Mountain Climbing as a Metaphor for the Spiritual Quest. Julius Evola, translated by Guido Stucco. Inner Traditions: Rochester, Vermont, 1998. 115 pages. $12.95.At first glance, I thought Meditations on the Peaks: Mountai...
FALL ON ICE, NO EXPERIENCENew Hampshire, Cathedral LedgeIn February, two inexperienced climbers in their early 20s (never climbed ice before) signed out boots, crampons, and ice tools from the demo people at the annual IMCS Mount Washington Valley...
The Romance of Mountaineering, by R. L. G. Irving. 8 vo. ; ix + 320 pages, with 41 illustrations, maps and diagrams. London : J. M. Dent & Sons, 1935. Price 18s.Contemplation of mountains—of their climbers and of their effects upon men (and pa...
Rock Climbs in the White Mountains of New Hampshire. Second Edition. Ed Webster. Mountain Imagery (PO Box 210, Eldorado Springs, Colorado 80025), 1987. 564 pages, 85 black-and-white photographs, 2 color photographs (on cover), 5 maps, bibliography...
Batura II, attempt; Yashuk Glacier, Nadin Sar, Jehangir Sar, Caboom Sar, and Mamu Sar, first ascents. In early summer Markus Walter (Germany) and I made another attempt on Batura II (7,762m), considered by some the highest unclimbed peak in the wo...
The Stanford Alpine Club: Featuring the Photography of Tom Frost, Henry Kendall, and Leigh Ortenburger. John Rawlings. Foreword by Steve Roper. Photography editor Glen Denny. Stanford, California: CSLI Publications and the Stanford University Libr...