DISLOCATED ANKLE WHILE RAPPELLING California, Joshua Tree National MonumentRichard Riley (22) dislocated his right ankle on October 25,1986, on Cyclops Rock, near Hidden Valley campground, while rappelling down the west face of the rock formation....
Lukpe La Brakk Tragedy. A six-person group of the South Wales Mountaineering Club came in July to Snow Lake of the Biafo-Hispar Glacier region, hoping to climb there. Dave Parsons had altitude problems and left with his wife. After Bob Williams wa...
McArthur Peak, South Face. On June 1, Paul Gonzales, Fred Beckey, Mark Landreville and I were dropped on the Hubbard Glacier at the landing site for Logan’s east ridge. The following day we sledded loads up-glacier to set up a camp just east of Mc...
Anye Maqin IX. On September 5, Martin Hampar, Michael and Catherine Pettipher, Ben Williams and I established Base Camp at 4200 meters in the main valley about a quarter mile beyond the large stream descending from the east face of Anye Maqin I. O...
Ama Dablam, Possible Variation and Traverse. Ama Dablam (6812m) attracted 12 expeditions in the spring, 11 of which attempted the standard Southwest Ridge route. Of the only three that succeeded, one, from New Zealand, went up an exceptional way. ...
Mount lliamna, Chigmit Mountains, Aleutian Range. During the week of June 1 to 7 Helga Bading, Erik Barnes, Gregg Erickson, and I made the first ascent of Mount Iliamna (10,016 feet), following two unsuccessful attempts by other parties in 1958. T...
Arwa Tower, new route. A Swiss expedition led by Frederic Roux climbed the north face and the east ridge of Arwa Tower in 17 hours on October 7. The summit was reached by the leader with Gabriel Basson and Benoit Jean-Paul Darbellay. They had exce...
Kedar Dome. A 13-member Indian team was led by Babban Prasad Singh. On September 7, four members and three high-altitude porters set out from Camp II at 6250 meters. Three of the members gave up but Sudhir Kumar Mahto and the porters continued on ...
Gasherbrum III (7,952m), second ascent. On June 17 Alberto Iñurrategi, Jon Beloki, and I arrived at Gasherbrum base camp; we wanted to attempt G-IV by the northeast original route, but by July 12 we were tired of the bad weather and the deep track...
Chumathang, Mahadev and Chokul, Eastern Ladakh. A 16-member Indian Army team led by Lieutenant Colonel J.N. Goel left Leh on July 26. They set up two camps beyond Base Camp. Nine members climbed Chumathang (20,300 feet) and another six climbed Mah...
Lobuje Southeast, Southeast Face, 1992. A Korean team led by Kim Jae-Soo made what is probably a new route on the 750-meter-high southeast face of the southeast summit (c. 5970 meters) of Lobuje East. They made two unsuccessful attempts on Septemb...
Pik Leipzig. Near Pik Lenina, there are still rarely visited lower peaks. On August 9, East Germans Ralf Brummer, Wolfgang Hempel, Erhard Klinger and Siegfried Wittig climbed the probably virgin P 5725 (18,783 feet). They completed the ascent from...
Haydon Peak and Attempt on St. Elias. Dan Dobbins, Bob Carlson, Paul Richens, Steve Barker and I as leader gave Mount St. Elias our best but did not attain the summit. On May 14 we helicoptered to 2500 feet on the southwest ridge (the Harvard rout...
Granite Peak, North Face. On August 4, 1963 I climbed the north face of Granite Peak, a new route and the most continually difficult ascent done on the mountain yet. There were 1500 feet of continuous class 4, exposed and interesting, with two tri...
HAZEL BRILL JACKSON1894-1991Hazel Brill Jackson died on May 22, 1991 at her home in Newburgh, New York at the age of 96. She was the daughter of William Henry and Lizabeth Lee Stone Jackson. She studied at the Museum School of the Museum of Fine A...
Bécquer, Cordón del Portillo. Andrés García, Jorge Marios and Miguel Abrego made the first ascent of Bécquer (16,400 feet) in early 1966.Cordón Cochrane, Patagonia. Chilean university students, Eduardo García, leader, Erling Villalobos and I, expl...
RAPPEL ERROR—DID NOT SECURE RAPPEL ANCHOR SLING Colorado, Eldorado Canyon State ParkOn May 6, after belaying his partners down a 20 to 30 foot cliff, the victim (39) fell about 30 feet while rappelling. A Ranger found a red sling girth hitched aro...
A Second Khan Tengri Tragedy. A British commercial expedition had three clients led by aspirant guide Peter Potter. At the 4200-meter Base Camp they were joined by Russians Ilia Iodis and Valeri Khrishchaty, who were to act as guides. The party ha...
Mount McKinley. Bill Krause, Ted Waltman and Mike Danaher in alpine style made the fourth ascent of the East Buttress, reaching the summit on June 8 before descending the West Buttress. They had very severe weather conditions on this difficult rou...
FALLING ROCKYukon Territory, Mt. Logan, South-southwest ButtressJohn Lauchlan, Jim Elzinga, and five others were climbing the South-southwest Buttress of Mt. Logan on an unstated date in the summer of 1978. One of the tents on the buttress was des...