The State of the ArtFive ranges, five viewsIt is all too easy to proclaim a route done today as the best route a particular area or a particular discipline has seen. Many factors contribute to this: media pressures that encourage the use of superl...
“Peak Giorgio,”first ascent, Amico Gio. Our expedition comprised Giuseppe Bonfante, Antonio Valerio Carrota, Silvano Colombo, Andrea Corti, Angelo Gnecchi, Giovanni Mazzoleni, Nerino Panzeri, Simone Ripamonte, Giampaolo Schiavo, Dario Valsecchi, ...
Number of Accidents RepottedTotal Persons InvolvedInjuredFatalitiesUSACANUSACANUSACANUSACAN195115221131952313517131953242712121954314131819553439286195646725413195745532818195832392311195942256231019219604746412378194196149961144510144196271190164...
Angel Falls, Estrella Fugaz*. A team of three climbers from Salt Lake City (Will Hair, Jose Pereyra and Scott Lazar) made the first free ascent of the 3,000-foot wall that creates Angel Falls on Auyan Tepui in Southern Venezuela. The route, Estrel...
Khan Tengri, Attempt, Tragedy, and New Route. It was reported that Yuri Krasnoukhov was attempting the standard route on Khan Tengri in mid-August, 1997, and while climbing from the CIII ice cave to the summit fell down the south flank and died. D...
The High Sierra: Peaks, Passes, and Trails. R.J. Secor. The Mountaineers, Seattle, WA, 1992. 368 pages. Black-and-white photos and maps. $19.95.R.J. Secor contributes, with this latest guide to the Sierra Nevada, new climbing routes gleaned from v...
FALLING ROCKWashington, Chair PeakIn conjunction with the above accident, two Mountain Rescue Council volunteers were injured in attempting to recover the body. Following is the account from a letter by Paul Williams:“We departed the road at 11 p....
Yosemite Valley, 1983. Here is a list of some of the new routes climbed in Yosemite last year. Due to the large number of excellent climbers who visit Yosemite from so many different areas, the list is by no means complete. Arch Rock Area. Up and ...
Dhaulagiri I, Ascent. On September 13, an expedition of 13 members from St. Petersburg, Russia, left for the mountains. Ten days later they pitched Base Camp at 4700 meters. It was decided to climb the summit by the classical route up the northeas...
The Triplets. In early November Jim Nelson and I climbed the left gully on the north face of the Triplets near Cascade Pass in winter-like conditions. We underestimated it, started after first light and packed no bivy gear. The climb offered all t...
Mt. Whitney, If at First.… We began this route on the east face of Mt. Whitney in 1999, with 14-year-old Scott Thelan. We sat in a tent in the rain for 36 hours and got back on the face only to have the clouds come in. We accomplished one pitch be...
UNITED STATESLOSS OF CONTROL - VOLUNTARY GLISSADEAlaska, Suicide PeakWilliam Parlier (36) fractured his right fibula as a result of losing control of his voluntary glissade while descending from the summit of South Suicide Peak. He was at the 1300...
Mt. Babel, East Face, Free Ascent. In August, John Culberson and I made the first American ascent of the East Face of Mt. Babel in the Canadian Rockies. This grade IV limestone wall has seen few ascents overall, and fewer yet as a free route. It w...
Dronning Louise Land, New Routes. A British group led by Scott Umpleby traveled out to the airstrip at Constable Pynt, from where they were due to fly on by Twin Otter up to the Dronning Louise Land mountains at latitude 76° N. The chartered airpl...
Denali, Isis Face and Slovak Route, enchainment. After warming-up with a difficult new route on the northeast face of the Bear Tooth (report below) and a rapid free attempt of Mt. Hunter’s Moonflower Buttress (retreat above the Bibler Come Again E...
Makalu. Our members were Fausto De Stefani, Fabio Stedile, Almo Giam- bisi, Spaniard Juanju José San Sebastián and I as leader. We got to Base Camp at 5400 meters on August 30. We reconnoitered the south spur of Makalu but there was too much snow ...
Argentine Patagonia, Various Activity. We stayed in Patagonia from December 2, 1998, to February 16, 1999. In this time we climbed the following peaks: Cerro Solo, December 8; Aguja Guillaumet, Via Amy, December 20, in seven hours from Paso Superi...
Czechoslovakian Everest Attempt. A Czechoslovakian expedition of 23 climbers was led by Ivan Gálfy. They had hoped to make two new routes on the southwest face of Everest but early on it was decided not to attempt them because four of the stronges...
A Survey of American Ascents in the Alps in the Nineteenth Century, by J. Monroe Thorington. 8vo., 83 pages and numerous illustrations. New York: American Alpine Club, 1943. Issued for the membership. Sale copies limited; $2.00.This slender volume...
Chañi Chico, Siete Dolores. This 5,571m mountain in Salta is a minor summit in the Chañi massif (5,896m), Argentina. Its incredible south wall has been a dream for many generations of Argentine climbers. Argentines Humberto Vázquez, Fernando Gutié...