The Alaska Range E. of the Richardson Highway was explored during the summer of 1950 by Austin Post and Gottfried Ehrenburg, of Spokane, Don MacAskill (Sierra Club) and the writer. Base camp was set up at the end of the Castner Glacier, near the R...
Thor Peak, Rainbow Bridge. Allan Pietrasanta and I climbed this route in May. It starts in a long, slender, right-facing book a short distance right of the Principal Dihedral Route. Two pitches lead to a point just below the top of the book where ...
If someone told you he had just run a 10-minute mile you would shrug your shoulders and say “so what.” If someone said he had just run a three-minute mile you would be amazed and skeptical, and a reasonable response would be to ask for evidence. M...
Wind River HolidayBeckett HoworthWe had discovered a new game, guessing where the road would go next. It could be seen only about a hundred yards ahead. It really should have been called an automobile trail instead of a road. Fortunately the stat...
Mont Forel Area, Various Activity. It was reported that a CAF expedition with the goal of making the 50th anniversary of the Expeditions Polaires Francaises to Mont Forel flew to the Femstjernen Glacier via the Bell 212 helicopter provided by Tang...
East Face of Cerro TorreStane Klemenc, Planiska Zveza Slovenije, YugoslaviaANYONE WHO HAS experienced Patagonian weather cannot fail to have doubts, and to fear each day more and more, that good weather will never come.The clouds swirled in, cover...
Broad Peak, Traverse of North, Central and Main Summits. It was reported that Toru Hattori, Toshiyuki Kitamura and Masafumi completed an alpine-style ascent of the traverse of the North Peak (7550 meters), Central Summit (8006 meters), and Main Su...
A Letter HomeThe first free ascent of Linea di Eleganza, Fitz Roy.Topher DonahueFebruary 23, 2006Dear Daddy,A few days ago, when I scattered a few of your ashes at the base of Fitz Roy, I had no idea we’d be going up for another try. Now we’re sta...
Ron Fawcett Rock Athlete. Ron Fawcett, with Ed Douglas. Vertebrate Publishing, 2010. 256 pages. Color photographs. Hardcover. £20.00.Strawberries, Lord of the Flies, The Cad. These routes are synonymous with bold standard-pushing and with Ron Fawc...
Central Rockies Section. Thanks to an enthusiastic group of CRS volunteers headed by Rick Casey, the AAC established a high profile presence among the vendors and organizations at the Ouray Ice Festival in January. The AAC tent was well positioned...
Fitz Roy, West Face Attempt, 1981-2. From December 27 to February 17, 1982 we operated in the Fitz Roy area. We were Michal Orolin, leader, Daniel Bakoš, Zdeno Brabec, Vlado Petrik, Dušan Kovac and me. A month later Ivan Fiala, Juraj Weincziller a...
The Salathé Wall SoloPETER HAANWITH so much history and poppycock tales about the Salathé Wall, a solo of it might seem outrageous and desperate. But it wasn’t that way at all. Climbing stories and the climbing imagination in their new hyperactivi...
FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING ALONEWyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Symmetry SpireOn October 12 at 1600, I received a call from Barbara Lachmar of Logan, UT, who stated that her husband Tom Lachmar (45) had not returned from a climbing trip to the Tet...
What may have been the first new Cascade alpine route of the 2009 summer season came on June 26, with Wayne Wallace and Steph Abegg climbing Twin Needles in the Southern Pickets (Thread of Ice, III AI3). On July 22 Kurt Hicks and Forest McBrian di...
Northern Cascades, Washington: (1) Mt. Shuksan. On 7 August 1948 R. Koenig (18), K. Barr and a companion, returning from a climb of Mt. Shuksan, were at the bottom of Fisher’s Chimney. They were standing on a small snow field, planning a climb of ...
Some Clean Wall Climbs in YosemiteBruce Carson25 May 1973Steve,At last! Vindication! You don’t know what I’m talking about? What I mean is that now I know that all our talk about doing long aid climbs on nuts was something other than bull.After mu...
VARIOUS FALLS ON ROCKIdaho, City of Rocks National ReserveThis year we only had four reported climbing accidents. Two of these came to our attention only because the parties involved stopped by the Visitor Center to ask for directions to the hospi...
The Great Canadian Knife — Logan MountainsGalen A. RowellIn 1972, jim McCarthy took me to a place he described as paradise on earth. We were on our way back from failing on the 4000-foot southeast face of the Mooses Tooth in the Alaska Range, and ...
Peaks in the Canadian Rockies above 10,000 feet, with Positions, Altitudes, and Data Regarding First AscentsNameN.LatitudeW.LongitudeAltitudeFirst AscentWhere ReportedAberdeen(“Hazel Peak”) Alberta51°5223’14116°11715’3610,34012,500C1894, Aug. 17.A...
The Mountains of NevadaWELDON F. HEALDT HERE is a small but fast-growing group of Nevada mountain enthusiasts. It consists of those who have discovered that some of our most beautiful and spectacular mountain country is in the Sagebrush State. The...