Nun and Kun, UIAA Training Camp.The training camp organized by the UIAA was a remarkable success. A team of 28 mountaineers between the ages of 18 and 56 represented nine countries, three continents and four major religions and spoke 18 different ...
Naltar Valley, 1990. In August and September of 1990, Irish climbers Orla and Maurice Prendergast and Tomas Aylward visited the Naltar valley and climbed Snow Dome (5030 meters, 16,503 feet) by the north ridge, Sentinel (5260 meters, 17,257 feet) ...
La Reina, Cordillera de Santa Marta. With a hired Colombian boy I walked into the Santa Marta massif from Atanquez up the Donachui River. Having lost my ice axe and crampons on the way to Colombia, I had to pick a rock route, the steep southeast r...
Rock of Ages, Southeast Ridge. From well left of the col east of the peak, this route was first climbed on June 24, 1979 by George Montopoli and Tim Hogan. After some F5 rock work, the first significant pitch contained F7 and F8 face and crack cli...
Keyboard of the Winds, Various Ascents. In early July, Nigel Gregory approached me with a gleam in his eyes. “Are you up for a little new routing?” he asked. Nigel’s British upbringing made me immediately suspicious. I hesitantly said, “I don’t kn...
Hot Tuna Tower, Sargasso, Wheeler Crest. In April Tony Puppo and I climbed this route that ascends the right side of Hot Tuna Tower, following the similar but smaller dihedral to the right of Starkissed. Two pitches led to the base of the corner t...
Broad Peak, Attempts, Ascents, and Tragedy. It was reported that 28 people reached the Main Summit of Broad Peak (8047 meters) this year, all but three via the standard West Face route. A Basque and South Korean team (Juanito Oiarzabel, Um Hong-Gi...
Gastric Distress – School House Group. On a reconnaissance trip for Colorado Outward Bound School in November, 1969, Rick Medrick and I located a previously untouched climbing area eight miles southeast of Creel in southwestern Chihuahua state. Re...
Baruntse, North Ridge from the West. Baruntse (7220 meters, 23,688 feet) is strikingly situated between the Lhotse-Everest and Makalu massifs. The Eastern Sierra Himalayan Expedition was the third group to attempt the steep icy headwall which lead...
British Columbia Mountaineering Club. The club enjoyed a very active year with 80 scheduled trips, many to new areas and ranging from easy hikes and ski tours to artificial routes and expeditions. Average outing attendance was 15. Three camps were...
Mont Blanc, Brouillard Pillars, Right Pillar. The remote Brouillard Face, the face of cloud and mist, is separated from the Frêney by the Innominata Arête and consists of three granite pillars. The left or Red Pillar of Brouillard was climbed by W...
FALL ON SNOW-BACK COUNTRY SKIING, TRAVELING ALONEWyoming, Grand Teton National ParkOn April 11, Vito Seskunas (53) obtained a backcountry permit at the Moose Visitor Center for a five day ski trip to Death Canyon. He parked at the winter trailhead...
Peruvian Ascents. H. Arbaiza, R. Carrascal and M. Cadillo of the Club Cordillera Huayhuash of Chiquián made the first ascent of Pampash (17,503 feet) on November 5. E. Leon, F. Diaz, R. Orrego, H. Tanaka and M. Canessa climbed Rajuntay Oeste (18,0...
Mustagh Ata. Our group of eleven rode with jeep and truck south from Kashgar. On July 4 we reached a Kirghiz settlement, Jambukuk, at 12,500 feet, west of Mustagh Ata. Five camels carried our loads to 14,750 feet below the Chal Tumak Glacier on Ju...
Huantsán, Attempt on East Ridge. Jeffrey Duenwald, Andrew Harvard, Del Langbauer, James Janney, Paul and Chela Kunasz, my wife Nola and I left Olleros on July 21 and trekked for three days along an ancient Inca road over 15,700-foot Punta Yanashal...
Angel Peak. In January, Paul Fehlau and I attempted a new route on the unclimbed south face of Angel Peak. The rock was softer than any I had played on in the desert. I knocked so much loose material on Paul that we abandoned the attempt. We then ...
La Ramada Range, Rio Colorado Valley, ascents. La Ramada is a remote, little-visited range in Argentina, 200km northwest of Mendoza, without a precise map. With Argentine climbers, I’ve climbed in this area, specifically the Rio Colorado Valley, t...
Kang Guru, Winter Attempt. A British-Australian team led by Michael Chapman was unsuccessful on Kang Guru, but they got close. Their high point was 6800 meters. They climbed the west face to the west ridge.Elizabeth Hawley
Mount Thor, Southeast Face. A new route, using the prominent dihedral bearing toward the east summit crest, was done on May 19 by Leland Davis, Mike McGoey, and me. The key pitches were the second one in the dihedral, and the final one on the head...
He Devil Peak, East Ridge, Seven Devils Mountains. On July 24,I climbed He Devil Peak by following the crest of the east ridge from the He Devil-She Devil col to the summit of He Devil. Three short fourth-class chimneys were encountered, the last ...