Miyar Valley, various ascents. Thanks to good preparation, a few spells of good weather, and staying healthy throughout the expedition, Ines Peschel and I made seven ascents in the Miyar, which we visited from mid-August till the end of September....
Wheeler Crest, 1980. A number of fine routes were done in this area near Bishop in 1980. In general, climbers were seeking out shorter, harder routes than in years past. The routes are listed south to north. 1. Soaring Eagle Tower, John Birch Soci...
AVALANCHEAlberta, Banff, Parker’s RidgeGraham Tretick and five companions were ski touring on Parker’s Ridge on 15 February 1977. The skies were clear and temperature about 0°C, and snow structure was surface hoar below settled snow with rounded g...
Mermoz, Attempt, and Fitz Roy, Ascent. In December, 1993, Kennan Harvey and I climbed about 1,500 feet up the east face of the Mermoz. Our route gains an obvious 400-foot crack on the orange prow in the center of the wall. We found stunning finger...
Emerald Star Mountain, Leaving Llamaland. From May 30-June 3, Amanda Tarr established the route Leaving Llamaland (V+ 5.7 A2+, 1,000') on Emerald Star Mountain, two buttresses right of the route Emerald Star Majesticus. A full account of her solo ...
Redakh Brakk, and Other Ascents. During the Haramosh II Expedition in 1995, we could not help noticing a prominent unknown mountain that dominated the view to the northeast looming up behind the ridge bounding the far end of the Sgari Byen Gang Gl...
Hidden Peak. An 11-man Japanese expedition led by Masahiro Maezawa climbed Hidden Peak (Gasherbrum I) by its first-ascent route on the southeast ridge. After reconnaissance, they left the mountain for nine days in early July to assist in the rescu...
FALL ON ROCK, FAILURE TO FOLLOW ROUTE, FAILURE TO TEST HOLD Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Cascade MountainOn May 27,1986, two climbers were ascending Lien’s Layback, a four-pitch rock route rated 5.7, near Banff townsite. The lead climber (25) had rea...
The California Mountaineering Club. With the last issue of our newsletter, the California Mountaineering Club entered its eighth year. Membership this year exceeded the 300 mark. This year saw the tragic death of our president, R. Dave Dykeman, wh...
Himalchuli North. Just five days after the South Koreans put a team on top of this virgin peak, two Poles made the second ascent. Zdzislaw Jakubowski and Jerzy Klincewicz went to the top on November 1 from their bivouac at 6600 meters. The expedit...
Trisul I, Attempt. Three years after a previous attempt, Iñaki Ruiz, Jesus Gómez and I returned to try Trisul I again. Our climbing style was simple: alpine-style, no fixed ropes, three high camps and two altitude tents for those three camps.We ar...
Saipal Attempt. On October 24, Austrians Franz Kröll, Fritz Mross and Ang Chhepal Sherpa reached 6630 meters on the west ridge of Saipal, at a point called “Firnkopf” by Austrians in 1954. They then turned back. They estimated it would have taken ...
“Hair-raiser Buttress,” Granite Basin. Vern Clevenger and I climbed this route in June. The route ascends the only prominent, pitted buttress in the middle of the Granite Basin group. We started off some boulders slightly uphill from the low point...
Gesellschaft Alpiner Bücherfreunde. This organization, with headquarters in Munich, Theresienstrasse 78, was organized in 1928 for the purpose of producing German versions of rare and modern Alpine books for its members. The annual dues are RM. 10...
FALL ON SNOW, INADEQUATE NAVIGATION SKILLS, UNABLE TO SELF- ARREST–ICE AXES ON PACKS INSTEAD OF IN HAND, WEATHEROregon, Mount Hood, SouthsideOn Saturday February 18, a party of eight climbers departed Timberline lodge for a climb to Illumination S...
Unexplored Mountains of Wadi Rum, 1984. If Wadi Rum means anything to anyone, it probably conjures up visions of Lawrence of Arabia, for it was from there in that remote region of desert mountains that he based his raids on the Turks and Aqaba. Si...
Solimana Traverse and Coropuna, Cordillera Occidental. On June 29 Hans Dümmler, Hans Raum, Heinz Thäter and I left the Hacienda Hiatapampa on the Chuquibamba-Cotahuasi road at about 14,450 feet and that same day set up Base Camp at 16,900 feet bel...
Cerro CABA. Cerro CABA (2500 meters, 8202 feet), the highest summit of the Cordón Pico Alto, lies in the region of El Bozón on the Argentine-Chilean border. It was first climbed in 1951. Fernán González and Lucas Angelino went to Lago Puelo, cross...
FALL ON ROCK, EQUIPMENT FAILURENew MexicoRecently, an REI customer had an accident while rock climbing in which a carabiner broke. (He was not injured, fortunately.) The customer returned the carabiner to the Albuquerque store, and our testing lab...
Mount Huntington, Second Ascent of Northwest Ridge. Our team included Cindy Jones, Bob Newman, Todd Rentchler, Roger Robinson, Charlie Campbell and me. On April 5 we flew with pilot Buddy Woods, minus Campbell, who had contracted strep throat, to ...