FALL ON SNOW, CLIMBING UNROPED, INEXPERIENCEDColorado, Longs Peak, Lamb's SlideOn August 19, Ben Cort (age unknown) was climbing Lamb’s Slide with two friends. When Cort was at the top, he lost his footing and fell some 800 feet. “The next thing y...
Kang Guru, West Face. Our members were Yang Yong-Deok, Park Hee-dong and I as leader. We approached via the Kang La with 15 porters because the normal route via Chame and Meta was threatened by landslides in the monsoon. We established Base Camp a...
Horse Creek Tower. This surprising monolith is on the lower scarp of Sawtooth Ridge, in full view of Twin Lakes, but it had not been climbed. The route on the south face included some challenging climbing, both free and aid. Leland Davis, Mike McG...
New Routes in New Mexico, 1991-3. In January, 1993,I made several new ice climbs around Questa, New Mexico. Luke Laeser, Mike Lyons and I climbed Eskimo Pie (II, WI4+/5, A0; 3 pitches), one of the finest ice routes in the state. It rises above Hig...
Moditse or Annapurna South. An expedition from Chiba Institute of Technology was led by Dr. Tomoyo Minegishi. They attempted the north (“Sanctuary”) side and east ridge. From Camp IV at 20,675 feet on October 15 they got to 21,325 feet. After bein...
FALL ON ROCK, CHOCKS PULLED OUT Quebec, Gatineau Park EscarpmentOn May 14, 1989, Henry Marsden (25) was leading a 5.10b route up a thin crack in the ’Ron and John’ cliff. The lead was protected by five wired chocks: R.P.s and taper locks. At the t...
A winter ascent of Longs Peak was made on New Year’s Day, 1929, by Jess L. Fults, A. L. Richey and Leo Sisler and also another about the same time in 1930, by Fults. After the first climb the climbers were compelled to spend several days in the ca...
Spedizioni d’Alpinismo in Groenlandia, by Guido Monzino. Verona: Mondadori, 1966. 424 pages, 276 plates (42 in color), 30 maps, 9 sketches. This book is a photographic record of fine mountaineering expeditions to Greenland from 1961 to 1964 by 30 ...
Chandra Parbat. Our team established Base Camp at Vasuki Tal at 16,075 feet on September 17 and Advance Base at 16,800 feet after crossing the Sundar Bamak on September 19. Bikash Chandra Sayal, Miss Ila Mondal and I established Camp I at 18,700 f...
Cerro Torre, The Long Run; and Cerro Standhardt, Extreme Emotions. On Janurary 3, 2006, Stephen Koch and I went to Chalten and the next day to the Agostini/Bridwell Base Camp at Laguna Torre. The weather was unstable, as described in many Patagoni...
Biale Attempt. Our expedition comprised Mark Miller, Sean Smith, Simon Yates, Nick Groves, Maryrose Fowlie, liaison officer Naveed Gaznavi and me. We hoped to climb Biale (6730 meters, 22,080 feet) from the south, approaching from the Baltoro Glac...
Shipton Spire, Women and Chalk, first ascent. Italians Mauro “Bubu” Bole, Mario Cortese, and photographer, Fabio Dandri, put up the impressive all-free Women And Chalk on the South East Face roughly mid-way between Inshallah and the line of the 19...
Gyachung Kang Attempt. Nine Britons, most of them in the army, and nine Nepalese, including two Gurkhas, were led by Major Roger Antolik. They were unable to get higher than 7100 meters on the lower part of the west face, where they had hoped to p...
The Picture of Everest, by Alfred Gregory. 43 pages of colored illustrations with brief explanatory text. Great Britain: Hodder and Stoughton, 1954.Since the recent improvements in photography and the reproduction of photographs, it has become cus...
P 20,430, Kanjiroba Himal. The Kitasato University Expedition was composed of Kazuo Yago, Mitsuhiro Kikuchi, Eiken Moriyama, Hiromi Ichikawa, Morihiro Takechi and me as leader. We flew to Jumla on September 6, leaving there on the 9th. We traveled...
Cerro Huiluco, Quimsa Cruz. Because of icy winds and snow during the “dry” Bolivian winter, traveling alone from mid June to early July, I was only able to make the second ascent of Chiar Huyo on July 2 and the first ascent of Cerro Huiluco on Jul...
FALL ON ROCK, RAPPEL FAILURE/ERROR, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENTNorth Carolina, Paint RockPaint rock (also known as Graffiti Rock), a popular roadside rappelling and training site in Pisgah National Forest was the scene of a rappelling accident on August ...
LOSS OF CONTROL—GLISSADE, NO ICE AXE, INEXPERIENCE Oregon, Mount HoodOn June 9,1993, Gary Whalen told me that he and his companion were glissading down from the Hogsback when suddenly his friend went over a large cliff and tumbled down about 200 f...
Shisha Pangma Central Summit and Cho Oyu. Our expedition left Kathmandu on August 29, hoping to climb both peaks by the normal routes and to film the ascents for Spanish television. We were Juanjo San Sebastián, Antonio Trabado, Ramón Portilla, At...
Changsanglamu. Changsanglamu (6324 meters, 20,748 feet) rises south of the Shigatse-Lhasa road between Kado La and Langkarzu. A beautiful lake lies 40 minutes above Base Camp. Legend tells us that formerly the lake was very muddy, but the goddess ...