Kusum Kangguru and. Nuptse. A plan emerged to climb several peaks that would not only offer interesting climbing but would also enable the members to acclimatize sufficiently to tackle Everest in alpine style. Georges Bettembourg (French), Michael...
Khatang, Rolwaling Himal. This mountain was opened to climbers only in 1981 and we were the first to try it. We climbed the northeast ridge. We established the following camps: Base Camp at 15,700 feet on October 8 and Camps I, II and III at 17,82...
Dragons Spine, Apocryphal Arête. I went to Little Switzerland for the first two weeks of June. There Adam George, Ben Lamm, and I climbed the Dragon’s Spine. We climbed the south-facing slab to the left of the major dihedral that splits the wall. ...
Appalachian Mountain Club. The Mountaineering Committee of the AMC trained beginners in rock, snow, and ice climbing as well as training mountaineering and expedition leaders during 1968. In excess of 3000 man-hours of climbing were scheduled duri...
On April 12 Norwegians Nils Nielsen and Eiliv Ruud climbed a likely new six-pitch variation (AI4/5) of the modern classic Shaken Not Stirred, on the Moose’s Tooth. They took a rarely forming ice smear to the left of the Narrows section (marked “po...
Soviet Climbs in Asia, 1965. Reported in Bergkamerad was the ascent of the 8000-foot-high north face of Pik Mramornaja-Stena in the Tien Shan, that of the 6500-foot-high south face of the Pik Kommacademie in the Pamirs and the traverse of the 6000...
Mount Fay, East Face. In early March, after waiting for the sun to leave the east face of Mount Fay, Barry Blanchard, David Cheesmond and I began climbing, expecting to spend one night on the face. After gaining height quickly, at the top of the f...
VARIOUS FALLS ON ROCK, PROTECTION PROBLEMS (3), HAND STUCK IN HOLDWisconsin, Baraboo State ParkFour reports came in from Baraboo State Park this year. All involved leader falls and three resulted in fractures. One resulted in a dislocation when th...
Mt. Olympus. From Camp Parker crossed Nigel Pass with packtrain and on second day passed warden’s cabin on Brazeau outlet stream, following Brazeau River to second creek coming in from N. Old trail on E. side of stream leads to high-level campgrou...
Liberty Cap called us back for another round after we added Scarface in 2010. Starting halfway out the traverse ledge, in a thin corner system rising through overhanging stone, the line eventually trends right and joins the West Buttress rou...
Urus Group, Ishinca, Ranrapalca Norte. The Swiss Arthur Schumacher, Paul Roth, Peter Lässer and Lilo Zimmermann with the Frenchman Serge Sarkissian climbed in June in the Cordillera Blanca. Roth and Schumacher made the first ascent of minor peaks ...
FALL ON SNOW, LOSS OF CONTROL–VOLUNTARY GLISSADEWyoming, TetonsOn August 16, Clint Farbow (20), Ted Garner (20), and Joe Bossong (20) were descending from an unsuccessful climb of the Southwest Couloir of the Middle Teton. Farbow was glissading do...
Mischief among the Penguins, by H. W. Tilman. London: Rupert Hart- Davis, 1961. 192 pages. Price 21s.This is primarily the tale of an eleven months’ voyage to the Southern Ocean by six men in a 45-foot sail boat. The objective of this saga is moun...
STRANDED, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, INEXPERIENCE, DEHYDRATIONUtah, Zion National ParkOn August 4, 1985, a man (37) left his car and began hiking upstream in the Virgin River Narrows. He carried 15 meters of nylon clothesline, a hatchet, some steel ten...
Mustagh Ata. Englishman Norman Croucher was a member of a Mountain Travel expedition to Mustagh Ata led by John Cleare. Croucher reached the summit on two artificial legs.
Quebrada Ulta. An Italian expedition led by Giuseppe Dionisi had a very frustrating time. Their objectives were already being climbed by expeditions that had got into the field ahead of them. Expedition members fell ill and the weather was the wor...
The Alpine Club of Canada has local sections in all the principal cities of the country. Many of these sections conduct mountain training schools, each of which distributes to every member a booklet entitled “Safe Climbing” (published by the Tarar...
Obelisk, West Face. The west face of the Obelisk is a spectacular, orange-colored, knobby wall. On the right side of this face is the only major weakness, a continuous chimney system, which is probably Beckey’s orignal route. About 40 feet left is...
Washington, Mt. Rainier. On 23 June Ray Smutek (31), Patrick Chamay (31), Ian Wade (22) and David Hambly (28), were climbing Mt. Rainier. At about the 13,000 foot level Chamay apparently developed pulmonary edema and died before he could be evacua...
La Ramada is a remote, little-visited range in Argentina, 200km northwest of Mendoza, without a precise map. With Argentine climbers, I’ve climbed in this area, specifically the Rio Colorado Valley, three times. Access involves a four-hour drive...