South Rawah Peak, Medicine Bow Mountains. While conducting a mountaineering survey for the U.S. Forest Service in the Rawah Wilderness, Stanley Irwin Grossman, Gretchen Laura Kluge and I on August 10 climbed the east face of South Rawah Peak (12,6...
Danish Expedition to East Greenland. A 2 5-member Danish expedition, which included nine women, reached its Base Camp at Quinguorsaq from Angmagssalik. They made 15 first ascents of peaks which varied in altitude from 4000 to 5500 feet.
FALL ON SNOW, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Paintbrush DivideOn the afternoon of June 7, 1994, David Turk and Dan Turk (25) were traversing a steep snow couloir near Paintbrush Divide when Dan Turk slipped and fell appro...
Huascarán Norte, North Face, Solo. Renato Casarotto climbed the north face of Huascarán Norte solo in sixteen days from June 5 to 21, cut off from direct contact with his base except by radio with his wife Goretta, who waited in a tent at the Llan...
Disappointment Peak, West Arête. A second new route on the west side of this peak was made on July 17, 1979 by Jim Beyer and JoAnne Urioste. It starts about 100 yards down and south of the col separating the Red Sentinel from Disappointment Peak a...
Longs Peak, East Face, Gear and Clothing, Previously Unreported. In August, 1998, Cameron Tague and I did the second ascent of Gear and Clothing (IV 5.9 A4) on the Diamond. The ascent itself is not significant; however, the amount of free climbing...
British Columbia Mountaineering Club. The year’s climbing activities were curtailed somewhat by bad weather, especially in the normally good months of September and October. As in the past the club’s climbing and hiking program was organized for e...
RAPPEL ANCHOR FAILURE, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, FALL ON ROCK Washington, Mount ThompsonOn September 17, John Cain and Dale Ramquist climbed Mount Thompson via the West Ridge. Instead of going down the East Ridge, the normal descent route, they opted...
Tower à la Neptune, Wheeler Crest. This is the farthest left of the “Hot Tuna” towers, a row of pink granite spires about 3000 feet above the Owens Valley floor on the Wheeler Crest. In December Mike Graber and I started before dawn and roped up a...
ROBERT HAMILTON BISHOP, III1916–1963Bob Bishop died by his own hand on December 11, 1963. Those of us who had seen him only a few days previously had found him as cheerful and active as usual and had no premonition of the tragedy shortly to occur....
FALLING BAG OF ROCKS–HAUL ROPE SEVERED, POOR POSITION, INEXPERIENCECalifornia, Yosemite Valley, El CapitanOn October 8 at 1430, Daniel Gibson was practicing haul techniques by raising a 40 pound bag of rocks to his belay point. The bag became hung...
Broad Peak, Attempts and Tragedy. A Ukranian expedition was led by Vadim Sviridenko in memory of three companions who died on K2 in 1994. Only the foresummit was reached. This team, as well as a Canadian commercial group led by Nick Cienski, came ...
New Routes on the East Face of Longs Peak. Wayne Goss and I made the Stripped Wall route in August. Our route began fifty feet right of Stettner’s Ledges and more or less paralleled it to Broadway. The climbing was mostly mixed aid and free. The r...
Squamish Chief, Black Dike. Al Givler and I completed this climb in three weekends in February. We climbed on the first two weekends in the rain, fixing three ropes on the first five pitches, in a total of 18 hours of climbing. On the third weeken...
AVALANCHEYukon Territory, St. Elias Range, Mount St. EliasIn June 1981, a party of four American climbers, C. Campbell, Mach Ellerby, Ted Hand- werk and Jon Iltis, were attempting Mount St. Elias via the Newton Glacier-Russell Col route. At 11:00 ...
STRANDED—SOLO CLIMBING, CLIMBING UNROPED, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT/CLOTHING, WEATHERAlberta, Peter Lougheed Provincial Park, Mount Brock, Southwest FaceC.F., set out on July 2 around 1400 to do a solo, ropeless climb on Mount Brock, about 50 kilometer...
Mount Ghent Northeast and Other Peaks, Kondus Group. Our expedition celebrated the 50th anniversary of the Climbing Group of the Austrian Mountain Club Section of the Austrian Alpine Club. We were led by Bruno Klausbruckner and composed of Günther...
Sherpa Climbing Courses. 37 Sherpas received certificates upon completion of mountaineering safety and rescue courses taught by two Sherpas and the members of the Eastern Sierra Himalayan Expedition in September. They were conducted in the Dzongla...
Various Ranges, Various Activity. Luke Aspinall, Toby Johnson, John Marsham and I planned a three-month expedition to Bolivia, with the intention of climbing in the Cordilleras Apolobamba, Real and Quimsa Cruz. However, things very rarely go to pl...
Paradise Peak, Kenai Peninsula. Although my husband Vin had been attracted by Paradise Peak as early as 1961, it remained virgin until June. F. Cady, D. and H. Bludworth, D. Johnston, D. Hodaway, H. Van der Laan and I committed ourselves to the sw...