Early American Travellers in the Alps. The paintings of “The Hudson River School,” exhibited in 1945 under the auspices of the Art Institute of Chicago and the Whitney Museum of American Art, New York City, include many mountain landscapes in the ...
Climbing in Auyuittuq National Park, Baffin Island. Rolf Zemp and Alex Clapasson from Switzerland made an ascent of Asgard under winter conditions in early May. On July 19 Canadians John Amatt, Ivan Wambera, Peter Hunter, Bob Rector, Richard Johns...
FAILURE TO FOLLOW ROUTE, STRANDED, BAD WEATHER, EXCEEDING ABILITIESWyoming, TetonsOn August 21, 1980, Jim Detterline (24) and Paul Bolick (28) signed out at the Jenny Lake Ranger Station to climb the north face route of the Grand Teton. This is a ...
We had a five-day warm spell followed by a weak cold front for 36 hours prior to the climb. Overnight temperatures had been well below freezing, so the ice was brittle.We climbed the approach pitch to the first ledge. From here we could see the pi...
Kubi Kangri (6,721m), first ascent; glacier measurements. The Kubi Tsangpo Headwaters Expedition 2007, which I headed, made the first ascent of Kubi Kangri, the highest peak in the Kubi Tsangpo headwaters, without the assistance of Sherpas. Our cl...
Chukutan Peak, First Ascent. It was reported that Spaniards J. Bañales, I. Peribañez, C. Reima, L. Tejada, M. Fernandez and J. Mugara had planned to attempt Spantik, but were forced to change objectives due to snow conditions. They climbed Chukuta...
PROTECTION PULLED OUT–FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE BELAY–ROPEDIAMETER TOO SMALLNew Hampshire, Cathedral Ledge, RetaliationThe leader, A1 (30s), was climbing and was below the crux at the niche. He had just placed a cam and was yanking on it to test th...
Yerupajá and Jirishanca West Face. After arriving at Cajatambo by bus, Toni Ponholzer, Dr. Rolf Klett, Erich Grossegger, Mario Bürgen and I took four days to reach Base Camp at Jahuacocha. We then placed a camp at 5250 meters on the Yerupajá Glaci...
EXPOSURE, WEATHER, CLIMBING ALONEAlaska, Mount McKinleyNaomi Uemura (43) was a Japanese explorer and climber who had completed many solo dog sled treks and mountaineering expeditions throughout the world. On August 26, 1970, he became the first pe...
Nuestra Señora de las Nieves, First Ascent. In January, twelve climbers from San Juan made attempts to ascend the southern peak of Cerro de la Ramada (c. 5900 meters, or about 19,350 feet). Due to route-finding problems, the attempts had to be aba...
DEHYDRATION–EXHAUSTION, MINOR FROSTBITE, CLIMBING TOO SLOWLY-FAILURE TO TURN BACKAlaska, Mount McKinley, Messner CouloirAt 0500 on June 3, Jan Markup (27), Petr Hoffman (27) from the Czech Republic, and Camelo Lopez from a Colombian-American exped...
K2, South Face Attempt. Our Franco-German expedition was composed of Germans Reinhard Karl and Hans Martin Götz and Frenchmen Jean Afanassieff, Dr. Donald Morcamp and me as leader. We were at Base Camp at 16,400 feet from May 16 to June 23. We app...
La Esfinge, Todos Narcos. Spaniards José Fernández and Daniel Lacueva (“Papiol”) attempted to climb the southeast face of La Esfinge by a new route, but because of the poor quality of the rock and the absence of a direct, logical line, they decide...
FALL INTO CREVASSE, CLIMBING UNROPED, HYPOTHERMIA Alberta , Rocky Mountains, Mount AndromedaOn April 25, 1986, David Bennett (18) and Jeff Hanson (18) were climbing on Sky Ladder, a popular climbing route on Mount Andromeda. At 1600, the weather b...
Tarke Kang (Glacier Dome). A French expedition led by Bernard Muller attempted this peak by its north face. They pitched three camps above Base Camp. They had reconnoitered to 21,000 feet above Camp III on October 8.Heavy snowfall brought avalanch...
AAC, Oregon Section. The Oregon Section has been infused with some new members and great input. Tom Thrall continues to work on various conservation projects for the upcoming year. Tom Thrall, Tom Bennett and I recently decided to mix a little fun...
Himalchuli North, First Ascent. A Korean expedition led by Lee Kyu-Jin and a Polish expedition were the first to attempt to reach this summit and both succeeded. Korean Lee Jae-Hong went to the top (7371 meters, 24,182 feet) on October 27 from a s...
Trisul I, West Face. In August and September, a Korean expedition led by Yeon Soo Park made an ascent of Trisul I (7120m) via the seldom-climbed 1976 Yugoslavian West Face route. Two members, Hyung Yull Kim and Jong Young Park, reached the summit ...
Churen Himal East Peak Attempt. An eight-man Korean expedition led by Do Chang-Ho attempted to climb the east peak of Churen Himal by its southeast ridge but they found the final summit ridge too difficult. It was very sharp, knife edged, steep ic...
Clyde Palisade, Primrose Ridge. This prominent crest adorns the north face of Clyde Palisade to end on the west summit. It is very visible from Glacier Lodge and usually divides the light from shadow. Dave Black, Mike Graber, and I made the first ...