Khumbu, Peak 41, first ascent. In the middle of October a Slovenian expedition of six climbers made the first ascent of Peak 41 (6,654m). After an acclimatization on Mera peak, Ales Kovac and Bostjan Jezovsek found a reasonably good approach to th...
In July and August our 14-member Polish expedition climbed eight new peaks from what we believe to be a previously unexplored valley in the Koh-e-Ak Su mountains of the Little Pamir, immediately east of the lower Wakhjir Valley. Half the expeditio...
Nanga Parbat Attempt. We were Davorin and Luka Kamicar, Sandi Marincic and I. On June 13, we left Chilas for Base Camp, accompanied by 23 porters. We reached it four days later. In Base Camp there was a Korean expedition, which had been there for ...
Potomac Appalachian Trail Club. The club’s Mountaineering Section began 1974 in possession of a small tract of land near Mouth of Seneca, West Virginia. A major goal for the year was the construction of a cabin on this site for the use of climbers...
St. Elias from The Sea: An Attempt on the South FaceWalter R. GoveSINCE THE MASTERY OF techniques for sustained climbing on big walls and for climbing of vertical ice, we have entered an era where virtually anything can be climbed. To read the cli...
Aconcagua Bites Back. The last two seasons on Cerro Aconcagua (22,800 feet) have been remarkably cold and windy, and authorities with Aconcagua Provincial Park report that unseasonably cold temperatures and high winds have made getting up even the...
TABLE III1951-911959-9119921992USACAN.USACAN.TerrainRock29253541207Snow1835277443Ice15162117River12300Unknown22600Ascent or DescentAscent263436512512Descent1652252495Unknown241110Immediate CauseFall or slip on rock1896183923Slip on snow or ice6681...
Petit Dru, West Face DirettissimaJohn Harlin*I started mixed climbing of an Alpine standard at an early age and found it much to my personal taste. I had never been very interested in pure rock climbing, despite its challenge; but a few years ago ...
Cho OyuVera KomarkovaDINA AND I MET up in Bangkok; she had arrived circuitously from Czechoslovakia and I from Antarctica, where I had been doing research, with a three-day stopover in Boulder, Colorado. In sunshine, we flew together to Kathmandu,...
PROTECTION BOLT PULLED OUTWest Virginia, Meadow RiverLate in the day on June 23, a bolt pulled out while a climber was lowering off a sport route. The climber struck the ground and broke his leg.The accident took place at a crag along the Meadow R...
Mount Dall Attempt, Alaska Range. In 1902 after a spectacular expedition up the Yentna River, during which he sighted the 8756-foot peak, Alfred Hulse Brooks named Mount Dall in honor of Henry Healy Dall (1845-1927): “one of the foremost students,...
JAMES MONROE THORINGTON1894-1989James Monroe Thorington, born in Philadelphia on October 7, 1894, died in nearby Germantown on November 29, 1989, at the age of 95. Roy, as his friends called him, was not only a distinguished opthalmologist, writer...
BURGE BICKFORD1906–1975September 1975 ended almost a lifetime of adventure in the mountains for Burge Bickford.His first ventures were with his father who was a guide in the Presidential Range of New Hampshire. Joining the Mountaineers in 1936 and...
Makalu (8,485m), west face, attempt; Makalu II (7,678m), west face, new route. Our three-man expedition, which ran from September 12 to November 15, was plagued by difficulties from start to finish. We made two attempts to climb the west face of M...
Mt. Foraker, North Face, and Circumnavigation. Historically, getting to the north side of Mt. Foraker has been a serious endeavor. The conditions of the terrain during the climbing season tend to be horrible; there is usually poor-quality snow, ra...
Climb: The History of Rock Climbing in Colorado. Jeff Achey, Dudley Chelton, Bob Godfrey. Seattle: The Mountaineers Books, second edition, 2002.200 b&w photos. 256 pages. Hard cover: $44.95. Paperback: $29.95.The Rocky Mountain’s Front Range a...
On October 29, Jared Vilhauer and I started up what we believe to be a previously unclimbed ice line on the southwest face of Lobuje East. We'd spotted it while making day hikes toward the Cho La (pass). Ice in the back of a prominent weakness cau...
Cerro StanhardtJames BridwellFIVE DAYS AFTER LEAVING LOS ANGELES, Elisa Moran, Greg Smith, Jay Smith and I arrived at Fitz Roy National Park in the heart of Patagonia, the promised land. The promise is bad weather, but that of course allowed us ti...
Everest, search for Andrew Irvine’s body. Amid much speculation about the fate of Andrew Irvine, members of the 1999 and 2001 Mallory and Irvine Research Expeditions joined the fray in 2004 to continue their efforts to locate the famous British cl...
Colorado, Mt. Blanca—On June 18, 14 members of the Los Alamos Mountaineers were camped below the N. Face of Mt. Blanca (14,364 feet). Plans called for the main party to ascend the NE ridge; two members (H. Hoyt, S. Landeen) elected to climb to the...