Silicon Tower, Verita Ridge. On a long one-day trek in September, 1961 into Goat Lakes, Louis Stur, Jim Ball and I climbed the west face of Silicon Tower, the very prominent tower in the lowest point of Verita Ridge, north of Warbonnet Peak. Later...
Pinnacles in Little Slide Canyon. In July, Joe Kiskis and I trudged to the head of Little Slide Canyon from Twin Lakes. Originally interested in something of greater magnitude, we were diverted by the lure of the beautiful pinnacles sprouting from...
Fitz Roy. On February 28 Alan and Adrian Burgess and I climbed Fitz Roy via the American route; this was the third time on that route and the ninth ascent. We had difficulty in digging a snow cave in the usual place near Terray's route but found a...
Altar Group, Ecuadorian Ascents. On December 3, 1978, six Ecuadorian climbers of the Agrupación de Montaña P. Leiva made the third ascent of Monja Grande (c. 5300 meters, 17,400 feet), which had been ascended twice in 1968 by Californians. The Ecu...
The Ice Cream Cone, Southwest Face. Known by local Matanuska Valley residents as The Ice Cream Cone (8,675') and by Anchorage locals as the Sky Buster, this peak was climbed in April by Carl Oswald, Chris Flowers and Matt Porter. Some tenacious sc...
Trinity Dome and Gauntlet Peak. In August Tim Donnelly, Stan Grossman, Ken Hunter, Larry Lempert and I traveled to the area east of the Pangnirtung Pass on Baffin’s Cumberland Peninsula. During six days of continuous clear weather, we approached t...
Chacraraju Este. French climbers Nicole Mazuir and Philippe Modéré climbed Chacraraju Este in August. They followed the route first climbed by Brewer and Richey in 1978 and probably made the second complete ascent of the route. (Japanese in 1979 r...
Bell Mountain, Hell's Bells. Brian Wood and I took advantage of a cold spell in early June, 2002, to establish Hell’s Bells (1,100 feet) on the northwest face of Bell Mountain in the Lemhi Range. The northwest face is cut by two large gully system...
FALLING ROCKCalifornia, Yosemite ValleyOn September 29, 1981, Les Ellison (30) was free climbing the New Dawn Route on El Capitan when he pulled a rock loose. There had been no indication that it might be insecure. The rock hit his thigh and cause...
Bharte Khunte and Kedarnath Dome. A 31-man Indian Air Force team was led by Squadron Leader V.P. Singh. On April 26 Base Camp was set up at Tapoban at 14,300 feet and Advanced Base at 15,000 feet on the Kirti Glacier. There they parted into variou...
The Brown Cliffs, Wind River Range. A new approach to this relatively unknown climbing area was proved feasible the first week of July when Bill Eubank, Chris, his 12 year old son, Jim Petroske, Carl Plassmann and I pushed through knee-deep snow f...
Api, South Face Attempt. Our 12-man (British) Army Mountaineering Association expedition was driven from Kathmandu to Dandeldhura. The new mountain road from Dangadhi to Dandeldhura is easily passable by jeep; a jeep track from Dandeldhura to Bait...
Langille Peak, East Buttress. Langille Peak, far up the middle fork of the Kings River, is known more to hikers of the John Muir Trail than to climbers. Its eastern face is hollowed by several deep gullies and highlighted by many long spur ridges....
Fitz Roy. Scott Backes and I climbed Fitz Roy by the American Route. We arrived in Base Camp on January 2. After 42 days and four unsuccessful attempts we climbed the route in 2½ days from Base Camp. We reached the summit at three P.M. on February...
Ronti. A ladies’ expedition to Ronti (19,893 feet) was organized at my residence and my wife, Mrs. Sujaya Guha, accompanied the team as manager. The other members were Misses Deepali Sinha, leader, Sudipta Sen Gupta, Lakshmi Pal, Swapna Nandy, Swa...
Manaslu Attempt. A South Korean expedition was led by Kim Ho Sup. They attempted the northeast side, by which the Japanese had made the first ascent in 1956. As the leader, his brother Kim Ki Sup and three Sherpas were making a summit attempt, Kim...
Guan Nelda I and II. An Indian expedition led by Bishnu Prasad Roy in August climbed Guan Nelda I (6303 meters, 20,680 feet) and Guan Nelda II (6157 meters, 20,200 feet). The summits were reached by B. Banerjee and S. Biswas and two high-altitude ...
Staunings Alps. The Cambridge Staunings Expedition consisted of K.J. Miller, leader, A.W. Billinghurst, E.W. Smith and me. We arrived in Greenland on July 9, at Mesters Vig airstrip via Reykjavik in Iceland. The approach to the heart of the Stauni...
Cerro Punta Negra, South Face, 1990. On December 9, 1990, Christian Buracchio and I climbed the beautiful ice couloir at the right side of the south face to the summit ridge and summit (4090 meters, 13,419 feet). The good ice was angled at 45° to ...
Shani, Naltar Valley. Guy Muhlemann and I, members of our Scots expedition, on August 14 reached the summit of Shani (5800 meters, 19,029 feet), near Gilgit, in the Karakoram. Base Camp was situated at 3750 meters below the east side of the mounta...