Santa Cruz Attempt and. Huandoy Norte Tragedy. Bill Hooker and I organized and led an eleven-man expedition in June to atempt new routes on Santa Cruz and Huandoy Norte. After establishing Base Camp at 14,700 feet in the Quebrada Raucolta, we bega...
Washington—Olympia Range: On July 26, 1952 Paul L. Schweitering (18) fell down the side of Timber Mountain in the Olympia Range when a boulder to which he was clinging gave away. He was working on a survey crew at the time. Schweitering suffered s...
Huayna Potosí North-South Traverse. British climbers Simon Abrahams, Jim Hall and Tony Matthews made a traverse of Huayna Potosí, starting on June 24 on the north ridge, moving across the west face to the northwest ridge and on to the lower north ...
Yanahuanca, Cordillera Blanca. The Brazilian Domingos Giobbi of the São Paulo Alpine Club made the first ascent of Yanahuanca (17,340 feet) on July 14 with the Peruvian Eugenio Angeles. On the next day they climbed Caullaraju North (17,764 feet), ...
Ama Dablam, Northeast Face and Southwest Ridge Attempts. Our team was made up of Swiss Marie Hiroz, French Laurence Gouault and Americans Steve Shea and me. We arrived at the rarely visited Base Camp northeast of Ama Dablam in mid-April after an a...
On June 26, Holly (32) and her partner Jeff were climbing the first pitch of The Nose when she took a 40-foot leader fall. She fractured her elbow and had abrasions. She was carried to the road and flown to the hospital. (Source: John Dill, NPS ...
Probably the most notable achievement in the Caucasus was the first winter ascent of the main north face of Chatyn-tau (4,368m), via the feature known as the Rhombus. Chatyn-tau stands just north of the famous double-summited Ushba.The first recor...
El Capitan, Winds of Change, Second Ascent. Grega Lajen and Iztok Mihev made a convoluted second ascent of Winds of Change (VI 5.10 A5) in six days in September. They spent three days fixing ropes on the first six pitches; after three days of rest...
California, Yosemite Valley. On May 29th Richard Jack (age 28) and Peter Williamson (29) completed an ascent of the Grade V route on the Leaning Tower. On their descent they camped for the night at Bridalveil Creek. In the morning they prepared to...
On August 16, a man (36) was critically injured when he lost control of his rappel and fell more than 100 feet. He was canyoneering, according to one report, and it took one set of rescuers seven hours to reach him, including seven rappels ...
Karchakund. Our expedition consisted of Daniele Turrini, Amaldo Colombo, Luigi Gallo, Anna Rosa Guzzetti, Luigi Mascherini and me as leader. We got to Base Camp at Tapovan at 4350 meters on August 2. On August 6, we set up Advance Base at Sundanba...
Cerro Moyano. After six unsuccessful attempts on Cerro Moyano, our expedition reached the summit (9350 feet) on February 2, 1976. This was the last unclimbed major peak in the range between Lakes Viedma and Argentino; it is only slightly less diff...
Baring, North Face. This frequently attempted 2000-foot overhanging face saw yet another attempt this summer, by Fred Beckey, Don Claunch, and Ed Cooper. The previous high point was reached early on the second day. It has now been ascertained that...
Stein’s Pillar. The third ascent of Stein’s Pillar, a spectacular, 400-foot, overhanging tower in eastern Oregon, was made in one day during the summer of 1965 by five Seattle climbers, Fred Beckey, Eric Bjornstad, Pat Callis, Dan Davis and Dick S...
Castle Peak subsidiary summits, first ascents. Roberto Iannilli and Domenco Perri left Rome on July 27th, spent several stressful days in Delhi trying to regain their missing baggage and then experienced more delays above Manali, when a heavy stor...
A.A.C., Sierra Nevada Section. The Section continued its active program this year by sponsoring three evening meetings, a late winter dinner meeting at Director Raffi Bedayn’s home, and our now traditional May meeting in Yosemite. As the May meeti...
Mountaineering Club of Alaska. Membership in the club slipped below 300 this year as the state lost more population, but we were still an active group. The club conducted its popular ice-climbing school in September and several other classes durin...
La Reina, South Face, Pico Ojeda, Northwest Face and Pico Colón, Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta. Jim Wells and I spent from December 29 to January 21, 1977 in the high-peak region, Base Camp being east of Laguna Naboba. We spent nearly a week travel...
Rasac, Traverse of the Mountain. Paul Gonzales and I took the bus to Chiquin from Huaraz in Peru, then hiked for two days into the center of the Cordillera Huayhuash. Passing through the austere towns of Llamac and Jahuacocha, once the epicenter o...
Mountain Operations. Department of the Army; FM 31-72. Washington: Government Printing Office, 1959. Order Number D 101.20:31-72. 238 pages, sketches. Price 65 cents.Although designed primarily for the handling of mountain troops, this little book...