Lungkar Shan, Tachab Kangri (6,704m), attempt. In August we visited the northern end of the Lungkar Shan in northwest Tibet.Our peak, Tachab Kangri, lies southeast of Marme village and Tsa Tso lake. Marme lies roughly 60km southwest of the county ...

Crow’s Head Spires. The Crow’s Head Spires, 250-foot towers of Wingate sandstone atop a Chinle sandstone base between Dead Horse Point State Park and the Island in the Sky of Canyonlands National Park, were climbed by Steve Wood, Robert Warren and...

FROSTBITE, BAD WEATHER, FAILURE TO CHECK FEETAlaska, Mount McKinleyOn Jiily 3, 1982, Miri Ercolani of Italy flew into the Southeast Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier (2000 meters) to start her solo climb on the West Buttress of Mount McKinley.After rea...

Gasherbrum II, Attempt. The seven member New England Expedition Team consisted of Maury McKinney, Brad White, Joe Lenteni, A.J. LaFleur, Tom Pollard, Bill Cialdea, and was led by Rick Wilcox. The expedition was the first of the 1996 season. We est...

Geographical note: While the well-known peaks in Denali National Park are often called “The Alaska Range,” these peaks form just one part of the immense Alaska Range, which contains many significant subranges, including the Hayes and Delta ranges,...

SLIP—RIVER CROSSING, INADEQUATE BELAY, INEXPERIENCEBritish Columbia, Purcell Mountains, Bugaboo CreekAbout noon on August 23, 1983, two climbers from Ontario (ages 19 and 17), were attempting to cross swollen Bugaboo Creek near Boulder Camp. Peter...

Nun. Our original objective was the unclimbed 5000-foot-high west face of Nun (7135 meters, 23,410 feet). After a two-day bus trip from Srinagar to Tangol in the upper Suru valley, on September 4 we started with 20 porters and arrived the next day...

Kluane National Park and Reserve, summary. Kluane’s icefields saw the least number of visitors in many years, with 50 people participating in 15 mountaineering expeditions, accounting for 1,017 person-days. The Mt. Logan massif saw only 11 parties...

FALL ON ICEAlberta, Jasper National Park, Mount Kerkeslin, Kerkeslin FallsOn December 30, a party of two was climbing Kerkeslin Falls (III, 3), a moderate waterfall ice route in Jasper National Park. The leader was ascending the third and final pi...

Himalayan Winter Climbing. The strongest winds generally come from the west and south. Route selection should consider this because jet-stream winds can stop movement altogether. The height of the mountain is more critical in winter because winds ...

McKinley Climbed by a 12-Year-Old. Taras Genet, 12-year-old son of Kathy Sullivan and the late Ray Genet, climbed on July 21 to the summit of McKinley via the West Buttress. He is probably the youngest person to do so. The group of seven was guide...

FALLING ROCK, POOR POSITIONWyoming, TetonsDick Arneson (age unknown) and Nelson Lichtenstein (39) were approaching the Southwest Ridge of Symmetry Spire at 1100 on August 14, 1984. Arneson had just reached the base of the ridge when he dislodged a...

Shivling. A British-American expedition was composed of British Geoffrey Hornby, leader, David Crowther and Colin Foord and Americans Thomas George Norris, Stephen John Ruoss and Robert Yee. They placed Base Camp at Tapovan on July 30, Advance Bas...

Yarydag, Northwest Face, New Route. Shkhelda lies in the heart of the Caucasus; Yarydag (3925m) is the easternmost point. On the northwest face of Yarydag, Andrey Andreev, Alexei Krivitsky, Sergey Voronin, and I established the new route, Northern...

Nevados de Arhuelles, 1985. A belated report comes of climbs made in the Nevados de Arhuelles, eastern sources of the Maipo river. Between February 2 and 9, 1985, nine climbers led by Ramón Medina including four women made the first ascents of Tor...

Mendenhall Towers, Juneau Icefields. Craig McKibben, Brian Cox, my wife Sharon and I left the Mendenhall Loop Road on July 5 and walked 15 miles up to the base of the Mendenhall Towers in 1½ days. On July 7 Brian, Craig and I climbed the southeast...

Mt. Wister (11,000). Climbed on June 27th by Ranger Phil Smith. Ascent from southeast, from south fork of Avalanche Canyon (new route). Descent by same route.First traverse on August 16th, by the writer. Ascent from south fork of Avalanche Canyon ...

Tombstone Range. Lured by a note in the Canadian Alpine Journal promising “Bugaboo-style granite,” at least two parties visited the Tombstone Range, thirty miles north of Dawson in the central Yukon, in the summer of 1975. In early June Mark Fagan...

Everest. Our Catalán expedition consisted of Conrad Blanch, leader, Joan Massons, Dr. Antoni Ricart, Nil Bohigas, Oscar Cadiach, Enric Lucas, Charles Valles, Jordi Camprubí, Jordi Canals, Jordi Magrinyá, Miquel Sánchez, Lluiís Gómez, Xavier Pérez ...

M.l.T. Outing Club. Located as we are in the East, it is essentially impossible for the dub to conduct any expeditions of note. However, we do a large amount of small scale mountaineering and considerable rock climbing, and each year one or two cl...