Broad Peak, Ascent and Tragedy. Three Korean climbers perished after scaling Broad Peak (8047 m) on July 20. The group leader, Hong Jung-Pyo (41), stated that two climbers, Han Dong-Keun (29) and Yang Jae-Mo (24), reached the main summit at 5:28 p...

Paine South Tower, East Face, 1986. After their ascent of the Central Tower of Paine (A.A.J., 1987, page 216), Elio Orlandi, Maurizio Giarolli and Ermanno Salvaterra on November 20, 1986 were joined by Ginella Paganini to repeat the difficult 1963...

Molamenqinq. Our expedition consisted of Warwick Anderson, Bruce Clark, Dick Price, Ron McLeod, Paul Chapman, Tony Charlton, Bruce Farmer, Mal Lapwood, Geoff Gabites, Ben Noble and me. We were in the mountains from April 9 to June 2. Our camps wer...

Aguja De l’S, Jugo de Hielo. Jugo de Hielo, the jewel of this small tower, saw two repeats this year, after remaining unclimbed since its first ascent in 1986 by Italians Grassi, Pe, and Rossi. Bruno Sourzac of France and Jon Ugarie of Spain climb...

“Bounty Peak,” P 7240 and P 7265, Western Chugach. Beautiful, remote “Bounty Peak” had not been climbed since 1969. (See AAJ, 1970, page 113.) Jim Sayler, Randy Howell and I did a new route on July 4, going up the east ridge, a non-technical ascen...

FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED–INADEQUATE PROTECTION, BELAYER IN POOR POSITIONArizona, Sullivan Canyon, Chino ValleyOn March 4, I was climbing a thin, dihedral crack with a bulge about 30 feet up. I had two nuts in below me as I approached the bu...

Bhagirathi II. A seven-man Polish team led by Janusz Baranek hoped to climb the unascended west face of Bhagirathi II (6512 meters, 21,364 feet). After nine days of effort, four members reached 6000 meters (UIAA IV-V, A1, ice up to 60°) but consta...

Mont Ventoux, by Francesco Petrarca. 21 pages. Munich, 1936. Der Tummelplatz Europas, by Leslie Stephen. 8 vo. ; 186 pages, with 19 illustrations. Munich, 1936.In their two most recent publications, the Gesellschaft Alpiner Bücherfreunde again dem...

Jangyaraju, south face. As part of a program for aspirant guides run by the Mountain Guide Association of Peru (AGMP), a 400m route was established on the south face of Jangyaraju (5,675m) on October 20, 2003. The route ascends the right-side of t...

Peaks Above Tazlina Glacier, Chugach Mountains. Dr. Harry Walker, Steve Little, Jon Fisher and I as leader climbed at the head of the Tazlina Glacier near its divide with the east branch of the Columbia Glacier during June. We attempted Lindita Pe...

Franklin Mountains, 1992. A late spring which caused havoc in bear behavior hampered my exploration of the sources of the Canning. From March Fork, I traversed east in heavy snow by way of P 7010 through this western corridor into the Franklin Mou...

Mount Baker, Cockscomb Ridge. This long, prominent ridge was ascended in its entirety for the first time on July 4 by Chuck Murley, John Musser and me. Although this ridge forms a prominent skyline on the north side of the peak, it appears that th...

Kangtega, Northeast Face, New Route. A seven-man French team (Erwan Le Lann, Francois Marsigny, Sebastien Montaz-Rosset, Francois Pallendre, Franck Plenier, Hervé Qualizza, Sebastien Schell) summited 6779-meter Kangtega in the Everest region south...

Saser Kangri I, West Ridge, and Saser IV. In 1973, an Indo-Tibetan Border Police team climbed Saser Kangri from the eastern or Shyok River approach. Four unsuccessful attempts were later made from the west. Saser II and III were also climbed by In...

Mount Northover, French Military Group. On June 29 a Calgary Section party of the Alpine Club of Canada, about 25 people, left the power dam at Upper Kananaskis Lake and walked around the lake to camp about a mile above Fossil Falls. On June 30, I...

Lhotse South Face Attempt. Our expedition, led by Reinhold Messner, was international. The members were Italians Hans Kammerlander and Roland Losso, French Bruno Cormier, Christophe Profit, Sylvianne Tavernier, Michel Arizzi, Spaniard Enric Lucas,...

Mount Gibson. A basic climbing and rescue school, directed by me, was held from April 14 to 19 on the Steele and Foster Glaciers. Mount Gibson was climbed at the end of the school.Hans Fuhrer, Kluane National Park

Lobuje East. A Japanese expedition from Touhoku University led by Kazu- masa Yamada climbed Lobuje East (6119 meters, 20,075 feet). On March 18, A. Koyama and M. Yamagata reached the summit.

Potomac Appalachian Trail Club. Probably the most notable ascent made during the last year was that of Devil’s Tower by Jane Showacre and Jan Conn. It was the first ascent by an allwoman rope.Arnold Wexler, Donald Hubbard, and Sterling Hendricks c...

Climbs in Patagonia. We update the account given in A.A.J., 1974 on pages 201-2. There are excellent reports on the Italian ascent of Cerro Torre on pages 26 to 29 and on the Swiss attempt on the east buttress of Fitz Roy on pages 32 and 33 of Mou...