Rakaposhi. Under the leadership of Mathias Rebitsch, veteran of the 1938 Nanga Parbat and 1952 Peruvian Expeditions, six climbers and five scientists from Austria and Germany left Gilgit on May 26, 1954, for the Hunza Valley. The scientists planne...
Verónica or Hacrahuilki, Cordillera Urubamba. The fourth ascent of this 19,336-foot peak was made by a new route, the north face, on September 13 and 14 by Eugeniusz Chrobak, Roman Gutkowski, Tadeusz Laukajtys and Ludwik Wilczyñski.Halina Cieplins...
Torres del Paine, 1992-3. Three young climbers from Bariloche were the core of an expedition that climbed all three of the Paine Towers and made new routes on two of them. They were Teodoro Plaza, 20 years old, and Ramiro Calvo and Diego Luro, bot...
Kongur Attempt. Nancey Goforth, Kathy Nilson, Pat Dillingham, Joan Provencher, Nancy FitzSimmons-Bloom, Deb Pranian, Suzanne Hopkins, Carole Petiet and I* traveled to Xinjiang to attempt Kongur (7719 meters, 25,325 feet) during June and July. We w...
Cordón de la Jaula. Under the leadership of Jorge Peterek, a group of the Centro Andino Buenos Aires made a number of first ascents in this range, which lies southeast of Aconcagua and about 40 miles south of Upsallata. The others were Pablo and A...
Nanga Parbat, Ski Attempt. Our expedition, organized by Dr. Karl Maria Herrligkoffer, had as members Rudolf Bilgram, Josef Stiller, Marianne Walter and me as leader. We were on the mountain from May 12 to June 28. Our objective was to reconnoiter ...
The Untrodden Route. The Alpine Club (London) has lost four members whose names are known to all lovers of mountain literature. H. E. G. Tyndale, whose last book, Mountain Paths, appeared only recently, died at Winchester on 3 August 1948, while t...
Cho Oyu from Nepal, Pre-Monsoon. We established Base Camp south of the Nangpa La at 5200 meters on April 21. We crossed the Nangpa La and followed the Tichy route with camps at 5800, 6160 and 6850 meters on April 25, 28 and May 3. Camp III suffere...
Himalayan Climber: A Lifetime’s Quest to the World’s Greater Ranges. Doug Scott. San Francisco: Sierra Club Books, 1992. 192 pages. $35.00.Scott is surely one of the most well-rounded climbers of our sport’s history. He has climbed the Salathé Wal...
Veteran Japanese explorer Tamotsu Ohnishi, with a Japanese companion and a Sherpa, planned to attempt Roma (5,407m), southwest of Saipal, and Danphe Sail, north of Kanjiroba on the Tibet border. Ohnishi had wanted to attempt Danphe Sail during an ...
Lower Cathedral Rock, North Face, Children of the Corn, New Route. On May 20, Steve Gerberding, Dave Griffith, and I left our comfy bivy to push for the summit of Lower Cathedral Rock’s north face. Four days earlier, in perfect, hot weather, we ha...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONCalifornia, Yosemite, Half DomeOn July 5, Kibum Lee, Ken Park and I (Jaenam Coe - 35) started a two-day ascent of the Regular Northwest Face of Half-Dome (VI 5.9 A2). Lee, the leader and most experienced member, ...
Hunter’s Northwest FaceConrad AnkerGet worse, stay the same or get better—Foolproof Denali Weather ForecastOPERATING THE KAHILTNA BASE Camp for the month of May provided an ideal job between climbs. People from around the world embarked on pilgrim...
The Archangel — Foraker's North RidgeGerard A. RoachAS we approached the pass, we instinctively speeded up. Soon we were running pell mell with giant strides across the scree until the entire peak came into view. It was fantastic. We were gazing u...
Broad Peak Ascents, Attempts and Tragedies. There were eleven expeditions this year on Broad Peak, on the normal route with only one exception. Mexican Carlos Carsolio climbed a new route. (See the article earlier in this Journal. He was officiall...
"Somewhere above the ice, unwitnessed storms Break in the darkness on the summit ridge And the white, whirling avalanche Blends with the storm, the night, the driven snow.”MICHAEL ROBERTSThe Fight for K2ROBERT H. BATESOn 2 August 1953 all eight me...
Ama Dablam and Himalayan conditions. The Himalaya appear to be getting drier, so relatively easy mountains are becoming technically more difficult with more exposed rock and more danger from unusual avalanching. Ama Dablam (6,812m) is no longer th...
Southern Appalachian Section. In early 2009 the AAC Sections Committee announced a significant restructuring of the Club’s Southeast Section to divide it into two smaller, more locally focused sections. The Deep South Section would cover Georgia, ...
Aconcagua: The Invention of Mountaineering on America’s Highest Peak. Joy Logan. The University of Arizona Press, 2011. 256 pages. Photos. Paperback. $35.00.If you have a keen interest in mountaineering history, Joy Logans richly researched Aconca...
Annapurna I Attempt, East Ridge. Our Swedish expedition was composed of Lars Back, Åke Back, Lars Cronlund, François Germain, Sten Göran Lindblad, Lennart Olin, Anders Thorbjörnsson, Ebbe Wahlund, Kenneth Westman and me as leader, Sherpas Pemba La...