Torre Sur de Paine, 1991. On November 1, 1991, Argentine Sebastián de la Cruz and Spaniard José Carlos Tamayo made the fourth ascent of the normal north ridge and the sixth to the summit of the South Paine Tower after fixing 300 meters of rope.
Tuomur or Pik Pobedy Attempt, Tien Shan. We hoped to climb Tuomur, which the Soviets call Pik Pobedy, from the Chinese side. Our Japanese women’s expedition was made up of Dr. Shiori Hashimoto, Yuko Kuramatu, Mayuri Yasuhara, Nobuko Yanagisawa, Ki...
San Lorenzo, Patagonia. This peak, 11,647 feet, probably the second highest in Patagonia, which lies on the Chilean-Argentine frontier, was first ascended by the Padre de Agostini, in 1941, with A. Hemmi and H. Schmoll. On January 19, 1956 the Arg...
Asgard, North Face of North Tower, “Valkyrie.” Chris Breemer and I put up a new line on the north face of the north tower of Asgard, which we completed on July 24 (VI, A4+; 14 pitches.) We had two days of good weather out of the fourteen we were o...
Black Peak, Bandarpunch. The 20,623-foot peak was climbed by four schoolboys led by Hari Dang on June 12 from a Camp III. Two were Sanjiv Sawhney and Maninder Singh. The mountain was first climbed in 1959 by Jagjit Singh’s Indian expedition.Kamal ...
FALL ON ROCK - LOOSE ROCK, CLIMBING UNROPED, CLIMBING ALONEColorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Longs Peak, The Diamond,On August 27 at 8:00 a.m., two NPS Climbing Rangers on the third pitch of Yellow Wall on The Diamond heard rockfall and saw ...
On Skis Over the Mountains, by Walter Mosauer. 8 vo., 85 pages, with xi diagrammatic plates. Hollywood. The Cloister Press. Price $0.50.This illustrated primer of modern skiing, based on the Arlberg technique, has been written by Dr. Mosauer, a me...
Bojohangur Duan Asir II or UltarSar Attempt. A Japanese expedition led by Tsuneo Hasegawa had hoped to make the first ascent of Bojohangur Duan Asir II (7388 meters, 24,240 feet). They reached Base Camp at 3300 meters on the Ultar Glacier on Septe...
Teng Kang Poche, first ascent of the northeast face to east ridge. During November 2003 Jules Cartwright and I made two attempts on the 1,600m northwest face of Teng Kang Poche (6,500m), the first of which also included Al Powell. An easy approach...
Eruption in Colombia. Seventeen students were reported killed in a sudden eruption near the summit of the 15,416-foot volcano Purace (2° 20' N., 76° 40' W.) on 26 May 1949. The volcano had been inactive for 16 years. Two other students, who were b...
Prior Peak (10,750 ft.) and Unnamed (10,150 ft.). July 8th, 1937. First ascents of these were made in a continuous route from camp below the tongue of Freshfield glacier. E. Cromwell, E. Cromwell, Jr., Miss G. Engelhard, F. S. North, J. M. Thoring...
Cho Oyu Ascent and Attempt from the South in the Pre-Monsoon. Malcolm Duff from Scotland led an international group consisting of 6 Britons, 1 New Zealander, 2 Americans and 1 Venezuelan to Cho Oyu. On May 8, Britons Duff, Dave Horrex and Neil Lin...
Cordillera Blanca, Various Ascents. Peru 1996, once a dream, was now a reality. We were in for two months of the South American goods. Our team mainly consisted of four: Lome Glick, Kent McClannan*, Topher Donahue, and myself*. After a three-day a...
Golden Horn: First Ascent. On 18 September 1946 the first ascent of Golden Horn (8400 ft.) in the N. E. Cascades was accomplished by Fred Beckey, Keith Rankin and Charles Welsh. The approach was from Horseheaven Camp, ten miles from the Hart’s Pas...
Pinnacles National Monument. It was a quiet year in the Pinnacles National Monument. To the right of “Agrarian,” John Barbella and James McConachie recommend their route, Heat-Seeking Missile (5.10c). Some of the protection bolts for this climb we...
Cholatse, Tawoche, Ama Dablam and Tragedy on Ama Dablam. A Japanese expedition led by Naoe Sakashita had a very ambitious schedule. Masayuki Ariaki, Makoto Ishibashi and Hideaki Shibuya reached the summit of Cholatse (6440 meters, 21,128 feet) on ...
FALL INTO CREVASSEWashington, Mount RainierAt 1225 on August 18, 1984, Ranger Bill Moe and Ranger Greg Petzke observed a client of RMI experience a crevasse fall while crossing under the Ingraham Icefall, descending the Disappointment Cleaver rout...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONColorado, Eldorado Canyon State ParkIn mid May, Jerome Stiller (50), a part-time instructor in Regis University’s teacher training program, was supposed to play the “victim” in a mountain rescue exercise Saturday...
Dhaulagiri. The fourth attempt to climb 26,795-foot Dhaulagiri ended in failure again this year when a party of five Germans and four Swiss under the leadership of Martin Meier of Munich were thwarted by bad weather and heavy snow. They are said t...
Cho Oyu from the South in the Post-Monsoon. By the end of this autumn, a total of some 400 people have claimed success on Cho Oyu—although some of them may actually have stopped at a slightly lower summit than its highest point (8201 meters, 26,90...