Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Quebrada Quilcayhuanca and Huascarán

Quebrada Quilcayhuanca and Huascarán. The Iowa Mountaineers sponsored an expedition to the Quebrada Quilcayhuanca and Huascarán in July. Led by John Ebert with Dr. Harold Walton as assistant, 63 members participated. Base Camp was erected on July ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Greenland, Gunnsbjørns Fjeld and Mont Forel

Gunnsbjørns Fjeld and Mont Forel. Franz Fischer, Tommy Sandberg, PerGunnar Bjurman and I made a 43-day expedition to East Greenland. We flew from Isafjordur, Iceland on July 24 with a ski-equipped Twin Otter to a glacier 20 kilometers north of Gun...


Accident Reports ANAM
Oregon, Mt. Jefferson

Oregon, Mt. Jefferson. On 30-31 August, Robert B. Nield (17) apparently set out to climb Mt. Jefferson alone. His body was found on Jefferson Glacier at about the 8,500 foot level. Apparently he had fallen 300 feet onto the glacier.Source: Newspap...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Wet Rock, Inadequate Protection, Inadequate Clothing and Equipment, Inexperience, Exposure, No Hard Hat, California, Yosemite Valley, Royal Arches

FALL ON WET ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION,INADEQUATE CLOTHING AND EQUIPMENT, INEXPERIENCE, EXPOSURE, NO HARD HATCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, Royal ArchesOn March 7, Greg McFalls (28) and I, Joe Hardy (25), set out to climb Royal Arches (III 5.7). It...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan—Karakoram, Pasu Peak, 1975

Pasu Peak, 1978. The then unclimbed 23,897-foot Pasu Peak, above picturesque Hunza valley, was the target of the Pakistani-Japanese Services Expedition, sponsored by the Defence Academy Alpine Club of Japan and the Alpine Club of Pakistan. It had ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Various Unsuccessful Expeditions to the Karakoram

Various Unsuccessful Expeditions to the Karakoram. Bad weather drove back a number of expeditions. Frenchmen under the leadership of Hubert Odier got to 23,950 feet on Gasherbrum II before being turned back. Germans led by Dr. Volker Stallbohm fai...


Notes AAJ
Winter Mountaineering

Winter mountaineering in the Himalayas has been extremely rare, but in November, 1937, C. R. Cooke and Mr. and Mrs. John Hunt made a number of ascents, in Sikkim. They climbed the Keilberg (18,960 ft.) and the Hunts reached 20,700 ft. on Sugar- lo...


Accident Reports ANAM
Cornice Collapse, British Columbia, Interior Ranges, Raft Mountain

CORNICE COLLAPSEBritish Columbia, Interior Ranges, Raft MountainOn June 24, 1987, Jill Hockey (30), an Australian exchange teacher, and three companions, made the one-and-a-half-hour hike to the top of Raft Mountain, a 2400-mcter peak near Wells G...


Club Activities AAJ
Iowa Mountaineers

Iowa Mountaineers. Over 4,000 individuals participated in the club's instructional courses and climbing outings in 1995. Many of the courses were offered for University of Iowa academic credit.The year began with over 200 members in cross-country ...


Notes AAJ
Canada, Purcell Range

Purcell Range. Ascents in July 1948 by F. Beckey, J. Hieb and R. Widrig are described in an article in this issue.Early in August four California climbers were caught in an electrical storm near the summit of Bugaboo Spire. Two were injured fatall...


Club Activities AAJ
Colorado College Mountain Club

Colorado College Mountain Club. The CCMC continued to hold its local rock schools and climbing trips to introduce new members to the sport of mountaineering. The participation of a large number of active members added to the success of our activit...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Langsisha Ri

Langsisha Ri. Simon Cox, John Goulstone, Steve Upton, Kirsten Sorenson and I left Kathmandu on March 29 and after seven anxious days and one heavy snowstorm reached Base Camp at 4500 meters at the edge of the Langsisha Glacier. From there we carri...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Manaslu, South Face

Manaslu, South Face. A Tyrolean expedition led by Wolfgang Nairz made the third ascent of 26,760-foot Manaslu by a third new route, the 10,000-foot south face, a face route of sustained difficulty. Yet success was immediately marred by the death o...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru, Cordillera Carabaya, Various Ascents

Cordillera Carabaya, various ascents. I led an expedition to the Peruvian Cordillera Carabaya in June, and we believe we made a few first ascents and new routes. This is a very remote part of Peru, and in two weeks traveling in the mountains we sa...


Club Activities AAJ
A.A.C., New England Section

A.A.C., New England Section. The year 1980 began with the disastrous lack of snow, which brought about the cancellation of our annual winter White Mountain meeting at Jed Williamson’s cozy farm house in Jackson, New Hampshire. “Bad call,” said som...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India—Garhwal, Satopanth

Satopanth. Andrej Gradišnik, Rok Preložnik, Danilo Tic and I first tried to climb Satopanth from the south via the Swachand Glacier but the snow and rock on the south side were too poor. We moved to a new base on the north side and climbed the nor...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Yakshin Gardan Sar, Third Ascent

Yakshin Gardan Sar, Third Ascent. A Japanese expedition led by Hiroshi Tateoka originally had permission for Rimo, but because of a border dispute, the authorities changed their objective. They approached from the Hispar Glacier over a col north o...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Africa, Uganda, Rwenzori (Ruwenzori) Mountains, Mountains of the Moon, an Historical Overview and Recent Ascent of Mt. Stanley (Margherita Peak, 5,109 m)

Rwenzori (Ruwenzori) Mountains, Mountains of the Moon, an historical overview and recent ascent of Mt. Stanley (Margherita Peak, 5,109m.). Rwenzori Mountains National Park is located on the border between Uganda and Zaire. It contains six major gl...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India, Lahul Himalaya

Lahul Himalaya. Capt. R. G. Platts and Mr. N. W. Wollaston spent six weeks in this region in August and September 1954. From a base camp in the Sissu Nala they climbed Peak 18,930 feet, eight miles southeast of Kyelang. From a 17,000-foot camp on ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru, Southern Peru, Salcantay Attempt

Salcantay Attempt. On July 15 José Astudillo and Antonio Alcalde were 350 feet below the top of Salcantay when they were struck by a great storm, which forced them back. We had been attempting the north ridge, the best approach to which would have...