FALL ON ROCK – NO KNOT ON END OF ROPENorth Carolina, Rumbling BaldOn December 18, my climbing partner, Adam (33), and I (34) were climbing Walk This Way (5.1lb) located in the Hanging Chain area of Rumbling Bald. Neither of us had done this climb ...
A.A.C., Sierra Nevada Section. The Section had five meetings in 1975 including our now traditional spring meeting in Yosemite and fall picnic at Raffi Bedayn’s home. A major concern has been the Yosemite Master Plan being drafted by the National P...
Wisconsin Hoofer Mountaineers. Climbing during the school year was limited to the bluffs at Devils Lake Park at Baraboo, Wisconsin. A small group climbed in the Tetons in late June and succeeded in climbing Middle Teton by the normal route, but po...
Fairweather Range. On July 5, 1977 Allen Beattie, Duke Greshook, Greg Wagner and I were flown to the lake at the foot of the Grand Plateau Glacier. Following the route of the Gove parties of 1974 and 1977, we hiked the 25 miles to our airdrop at 1...
El Capitan, The Nose. Single-day ascents of this 3,000-foot vertical granite wall have become rights of passage for top rock climbers in their prime. On September 23, Galen Rowell became the oldest climber to do so. Starting by headlamp with no fi...
Prospectors Mountain, Raven Crack. This fine Grade IV route, climbed on August 3 by Yvon Chouinard and Mort Hemple, goes directly up the long black crack, or open-book chimney, on the south side of Death Canyon; it starts near the base of Apocalyp...
FALLING ROCK, NO HARD HATColorado, Eldorado Canyon State Park, Red Garden WallOn June 12, 1994, a climber (22) was top-roping on the Red Garden Wall when he loosened a six inch rock, which then hit him in the head. He was lowered to the ground and...
Mount Logan. A four-man team from Japan, led by Yoshiharu Hirotani, made the ascent of Mount Logan via the King Trench route. They reached the summit on August 23, 1976.
P 10,910, Second Ascent by a New Route, Hayes Group, Alaska Range. On April 24 Carl Tobin and I flew into the Hayes Group with Doug Geeting. We landed on the Turkey Glacier, which drains the southwestern flanks of Mount Hayes. We then skied to 820...
California, Kings Canyon National Park, Paradise Valley—On August 21, Charles Gibbons (16) of Hollywood, California, climbing in hazardous terrain with two companions, became stranded on a ledge approximately 1,000 feet above the floor of Paradise...
SLIP ON ICE, NO PROTECTION PLACED, CLIMBING ALONE— New York, Practice Cliffs near Patterson. H. J. Stepnowski reported that in March he fell 15 feet after discovering—the hard way—that a crucial foothold on a rock climb was iced over. He said “The...
Kharkiraa. Mauro Taramelli, Nicoletta Piazza and Stefano Crotta were taken by the Mongol Altai Club to the province of Ivs in northwest Mongolia. From Ulangoon, the regional capital, they rode on horseback to 3100 meters at the base of Kharkiraa. ...
Broken Tooth. “Broken Tooth” is the unofficial name that Alaskan mountaineers have applied to P 9050 on the divide between the Buckskin and Coffee Glaciers, 20 miles southeast of Denali. On May 7 Bob Plumb and I made the first ascent of Broken Too...
Alberta, Banff National Park, Abbot Pass—Four Montreal climbers, Bernard Poisson, Erwin Hodgson, Richard Willmott and Rodolphe de- Repentigny, traversed Mt. Victoria from the north on July 23. They stayed overnight at Abbot Pass.Next morning they ...
WET SNOW SLIDE, FALL ON ICE, UNROPED Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Moraine Lake, 3-3½ CouloirTwo Yugoslavian mountaineers started down the 3-3½ Couloir, a steep 2,000-foot- high ice chute, from the Graham Cooper bivouac hut at noon on 20 August 1979. ...
Southern Pickets, East Twin Needle. McMillan Cirque was revisited in early July, and a very marked change was noted in the glaciers over the past six years; photos show higher ice walls on the bulge of the hanging glaciers, and two glaciers that w...
Mount Moran, South Buttress Right, variation. On July 13, 1969, Juris Krisjansons and Peter Habeler made a significant new variation of this massive buttress by climbing the rock between the Black Fin and the South Buttress Right route. Six leads ...
Salcantay, South Face and East Ridge. Our expedition took two days to get from Mollepata over Pampa Soray to Base Camp at 15,425 feet under the south face of Salcantay on June 2. The next day four of us reconnoitered the whole south and southeast ...
El Gran Trono Blanco, Giraffe, Second Ascent. In February, Lionel and Damien Daudet made the (possible) second ascent of the Giraffe Route (6c+ A3, 500m) on El Gran Trono Blanco.Jean-Marc Clerc, France
Dartmouth Mountaineering Club. The Dartmouth Mountaineering Club held its usual weekend trips to climbing areas in New England, including Orford, Whitehorse, Cathedral, and Franconia Notch. A new route was climbed on Owl’s Head, and Bartlett Tower...