Lemon Mountains, Various First Ascents. The British Lemon Mountains Expedition 2000 was an exploratory climbing expedition to part of Greenland’s east coast. Together with a visit to the area in 1999, our plan was to explore the beautiful Lemons a...
New York Section. The New York Section hosts a variety of outdoor and indoor social events throughout the year. Among the perennials is a Winter Outing held each year in the Adirondacks, as well as a June get-together at the Ausable Club there. Ho...
Mini-Moonflower, Dempster-Wilson. On May 19 my cousin Kyle Dempster and I departed Kahiltna Base camp for the Mini-Moonflower, just beyond Mt. Hunter’s renowned North Buttress. This day held special importance for us, marking the three-year annive...
JOSEPH M. BUSWELL1910-1994Joseph Buswell was a long-time member of the American Alpine Club and the Seattle Mountaineers. He was president of the Mountaineers from 1948 to 1950 and was given their annual Service Plaque Award in 1958. At one time h...
McArthur Peak, Huge in Europe and Night Shift; Mt. Logan, attempt. In early May, Jesse Thompson, Rich Searle, and I, Joe Josephson, flew with Andy Williams from Kluane Lake, Yukon, to the south face of McArthur Peak, which shares a base camp site ...
Uzan Brakk, 1980. Our expedition was made up of Dr. Will Taps- field, Tony Saunders and me as leader. We left Skardu on July 10 and arrived at the Ogre Base Camp on July 21. We helped rescue a Japanese climber from 150 feet down a crevasse at 19,5...
New England Section. In 2007 we lost Bob Bates, our famed AAC Honorary President, one of the great “Harvard Five” mountaineers (Bates, Carter, Houston, Moore, and Washburn) portrayed by David Roberts in his January 1981 Harvard Magazine article, “...
A Night on the Ground, a Day in the Open. Doug Robinson. Mountain N’ Air Books. La Crescenta, California, 1996. Black and white photos. 255 pages. $19.00.This book is a collection of 31 essays, divided into five chapters, written between 1968 and ...
Mt. Alberta, Japanese Route, first winter ascent. Ever since first scampering across Mt. Alberta’s (3,619m) precipitous summit ridge, I had wondered what it would be like in winter. As the season progressed, I kept track of weather and avalanche f...
Tilitso, Winter Ascent. A four-man team from South Korea had permission for Tilitso’s northwest ridge, but they found the route dangerous and switched to the northeast ridge. All four climbed together and bivouacked for four nights, one without a ...
Sumidero Canyon, Hombres del Pañuelo Rojo. This majestic canyon forms part of the Sumidero Canyon National Park, located near the capital city of Tuxtla Gutierrez in the southern state of Chiapas. In February 1999 a local nonprofit climbing club, ...
The Harvard Andean Expedition of 1957Craig MerrihueInspired by the successes of Shiptonand Tilman with mountaineering expeditions in worthwhile mountain regions on limited means, I began contemplating two years ago a low-cost expedition to some tw...
Annapurna II Attempt. Eight Japanese led by Masaaki Fujii tried to climb Annapurna II by its south face. They made four high camps. A high point of 7020 meters was reached on October 5 by Fujii and Masafumi Tokada when they were making the route t...
Britain’s Mountain Heritage, by Arthur Gardner. 8 vo.; xii + 51 pages, with 128 illustrations from the author’s photographs and a map. London: B. T. Batsford, Ltd., 1942. Price 12/6.Like the foregoing volume, this is a picture book, but designed t...
We were a team of six: Benoit Robert, Philippe Batoux, Hervé Bouvard and I as the leading team, and Guy Abert and the Israeli Alon Hod in support. It took us five days, from November 12-16, with fixed rope to establish La Guerre Sainte (The Holy...
Thugje, First Ascent. A Chukyo Alpine Club (CAC) mountaineering party from Nagoya, Japan, made the first ascent of Thugje (6148m) in Rupshu, Ladakh, on August 14 and 15. Thugje is located northwest of Tso Moriri Lake in Rupshu in Ladakh. The avera...
Shri Kailas. A joint 11-member Indo-French expedition climbed Shri Kailas (6932 meters, 22,742 feet). After leaving Gangotri on June 26, they established Base Camp on the Raktvam Glacier on the 28th. Camps I and II were placed on the Shyamvarn Gla...
Peak 10,535. The probable first ascent of this easy peak was made August 27, 1957 by Don Moser, William Edwards, and Robert Page, who approached it from the east.
Tsacra Grande, West Face. In mid-August Mark Richey and I left our families at our base camp at Laguna Jahuacocha and hiked up the Quebrada Huacrish to above Laguna Saquicocha. We camped that night on a grassy hillside just below the west side of ...
Instruction sur la Practique de l’Alpinisme et du Ski, issued by Secretariat d’Etat à la Guerre. 325 pages, including appendices and index, and 259 line drawings. Paris: Editions Berger-Levrault, 1953.This is a military manual for the training of ...