Peaks in Cordillera Vilcanota. The second group of the Munich Andean Trip had as members Angelika Forster, Sigfried Völkl, George Ashton, Reinhard Vogl and me. We made the following ascents: Campa I (17,995 feet) by all on August 23; P 5475 (17,96...
Yunnan Province, Various Ascents. In April, I traveled to northwest Yunnan province and made my way to the town of Dechin by public bus. From April 25-27, I recced the approach to Baima Shan, an unclimbed peak of around 5500 meters on the west sid...
The Ascent of Manaslu in Photographs. The Japanese expeditions of 1952 to 1956, by Takayoshi Yoda. Tokio: The Maiinichi Newspapers. 186 photographs, 9 in color. Price Yen 1,000. (Charles E. Tuttle, Rutland, Yt. $5.00.)Seldom has a mountaineering p...
Montana, Glacier National Park—On June 19, 1954, Miss Claudia Keil (17) and two companions were returning from an ascent of Mt. Altyn when an accident occurred. They were approximately one-quarter of the way down when Miss Keil stepped out on a sn...
Lake Powell Area, Tower Butte, West Face. Davy Insley and Jason Keith first ascended this remote butte. Approach by boat from Wahweap Marina near Glen Canyon Dam on Lake Powell. Proceed uplake to a campsite a short ways up Labyrinth Canyon. Hike s...
White Needle. Our expedition was composed of Gorka Estomés, Tomás Izco, José Luis Pérez, Mikel Repáraz, Pedro Tous and me as leader. On July 10, we crossed the Suru River and placed Base Camp at 4000 meters in the valley of the Shafat Glacier. On ...
Lhotse, South Face Attempt. A very strong Italian national expedition failed to climb the south face of Lhotse. The leader was Riccardo Cassin and members were Ignazio Piussi, Reinhold Messner, Franco Gugiatti, Gigi Alippi, Sereno Barbacetto, Aldo...
Gasherbrum IV, northwest ridge to north summit. The Spanish team of Alberto Iñurrategi, Ferrári Latorre, José Carlos Tamayo, Juan Vallejo, and Miguel Zabalza climbed the northwest ridge of 7,925m Gasherbrum IV (Child-Hargis-Macartney-Snape, 1986),...
FALL ON ROCK, HEAVY PACKAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount YamnuskaOn August 28,1994, Stan and Pam were attempting the seven-pitch, 5.8 A1 route “Corkscrew” on Mt. Yamnuska, and had completed the first two pitches. Pam was seconding the third pitch w...
Everest Attempt and Tragedy. Our expedition was composed of Austrians Wastl Wörgötter, Dr. Andreas Paul, Ingeborg Aufschnaiter, Harald Benzl, Johann Pree, Josef Inhöger, Martin Hornegger, Johann-Georg Bachmair, and me as leader, Germans Dr. Karl W...
Attempt on Queen Mary; other St. Elias Peaks. As seasonal employees of the Icefield Ranges Research Project, Alex Bittenbender, Don Stockard and I dug snow-sample pits in record time to allow time-off for climbing. When Peter Dodds, Will Harrison ...
Chiring We (6,599m), second ascent. Chiring We is situated at the head of the Kalabaland glacier and is not frequently visited by mountaineers. The first ascent was achieved in 1979 by a team from Mumbai under the leadership of Harish Kapadia. The...
Torres del Paine National Park, Rules and Regulations. Officially, a special foreigners-only climbing fee of $100 must be paid at the administration office when one enters Torres del Paine National Park. However, we would warn our readers that str...
INTOXICATION – FALL ON ROCK, FREE SOLO CLIMBINGWest Virginia, New River Gorge National RiverIn early July about 11:45 a.m., Charles G. Fredricks Jr. (39) fell while free solo climbing Angel’s Arete (5.10) in the Bridge Buttress area. National Park...
Mount Skarland, Hayes Group, Alaska Range. Early in April, Ed Johann, Terry Simonitch, Price Zimmermann and I were flown onto the upper portion of the Hayes Glacier from Delta Junction. Our pilot, Mike Stone of Wilson Air Service, did an excellent...
Mount Logan Tragedy, Warbler Ridge. All six of us were setting up camp the evening of July 7 on a large and apparently secure comice at 14,000 feet on the south-southeast ridge of Logan, the next ridge east of Hummingbird Ridge. The entire ridge w...
STRANDED, INADEQUATE KNOWLEDGE OF ROUTE Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Grand TetonOn the evening of June 21, 1994, the Teton County Sheriff’s Communications Center forwarded a 911 call to Ranger Renny Jackson at his local residence. The call ...
Huascarán. Our group made ascents of Huascarán by the Garganta route as follows: on August 21 José Luis Sesma, José Errasti and I; on August 22 Maite Bacaicoa and Angel Rosen; on August 23 José Ignacio Artarez, Elías Ruis de Alegría, the Peruvian ...
Rocky Mountain National Park, Enchainment. In August, Mike Pennings and I left the Longs Peak parking lot at 3 a.m. and climbed Pervertical Sanctuary (5.10) on the Diamond. We then dropped over the west side of Longs and soloed the North Ridge of ...
Mount Logan Map, Research and Reference Folio. G. Holds worth and B. Sawyer. Arctic Institute of North America, 2500 University Drive NW, Calgary AB T2N 1N4, Canada, 1993. Two sheets 50cm x 66cm, printed in color on four sides of poster-grade pape...