El Capitan, “Flight of the Albatross. ” In the spring, Will Oxx and I climbed “The Flight of the Albatross” (VI, 5.10, A3+), between Magic Mushroom and the Shield. It starts at Heart Ledge and climbs up the right of the Heart. It continues for 13 ...

Coonyard Pinnacle. Slightly left and 400 feet above the top of Monday Morning Slab on Glacier Point Apron rises a 40-foot slab, Coonyard Pinnacle. On September 7, Joe McKeown, Rich Calderwood and I ascended this pinnacle from the top of Monday Mor...

Gasherbrum I and II, Ascents, Attempts and Tragedy. Our international expedition of 13, led by Peter Guggemos (Germany), successfully saw 11 summiting GII and one reaching the top of GI. The weather was persistently stormy and, aside from a week o...

Chogalisa from the Northwest, Third Ascent. Our expedition was composed of Françoise Hénault, Pascal Poizat, Christian LaVergne, Philippe Arnaud, Christine Da Ronch and me. Our approach march was from July 18 to 27. Base Camp was at 4950 meters on...

Sierra Nevada de Cocuy. The Chilean Evelio Echevarrí a describes this little known region as a handsome glacial chain, located about 300 miles northeast of Bogatá, easy of access by road. When he visited the range in December 1956 he was plagued b...

Abi Gamin and Mukut Parvat East, Ascents. A 15-member Korean expedition led by Nam-il Kim made ascents of Abi Gamin (7355m) and Mukut Parvat East (7130m) in August. (This same team had climbed Mukut Parvat East II two years before.) They establish...

Everest Winter Attempt and Tragedy. A large Korean expedition led by Kim Ha-Kyung with 25 members attempted to climb Everest by the South Col route in winter. They apparently reached the South Col on December 29 but could go no higher. There was a...

Mount Waddington, New Route. During July Dave Mention and I climbed Mount Waddington by a new variation. Other party members were Tim Riordan, Jack Tackle and Dave Brunk. We approached the mountain by the Franklin Glacier, with Base Camp on the Di...

Borkoldoy Khrebet, Pik Alexander, Father’s Peak, and Pik Ibex ascents. A British team comprising Sharon Abbott, Wayne Gladwin, Mike Rosser and Stephen Saddler were the first climbers to visit the southwestern sector of the Borkoldoy range. This is...

Annapurna Attempt. Our group of ten Americans, mostly professional mountain guides, attempted to climb the north face of Annapurna by the Dutch Rib. We arrived at Base Camp on August 28, finding a large Korean expedition already at Camp I. We caug...

Makalu, South Face Attempt. A strong Austrian team failed to climb the 10,000-foot south face of Makalu, previously attempted by Yugoslavs. The leader was Wolfgang Nairz; other members were Horst Bergmann, Yves Buchheim, Walter Almberger, Helmut H...

Hypothermia and Cold Injury. Evan L. Lloyd. Apen Systems, Rockville, Maryland. 1986. 397 pages. 19 figures and tables.Although this is an excellent review of virtually all that is known today about hypothermia, the title is misleading: only seven ...

FALL ON ROCK, BELAYER TAKES HAND OFF ROPEKentucky, Red River GorgeOn Friday, March 4, I (name and age not on post) was climbing at The Motherlode on a route called Kick Me in the Jimmie (5.12) when I fell late in the day. The last fall of the last...

Nanga Parbat Tragedy. A Korean expedition led by Ryoo Gil-Man attempted the Diamir face of Nanga Parbat. On June 23, Kim Kwang-Ho slipped and fell to his death. The other members of the expedition were Chae Su-San, Jung Eun-Sang, Ha Jeong-Lea and ...

Rangrik Rang, west ridge. In October three French aspirant guides,Sylvain Audibert, Odilon Ferran, and Jeremy Rumebe, made the second ascent of Rangrik Rang (6,553m) by a new route up the west ridge. On the only previous attempt, in June 1994, Chr...

California, San Francisco Bay Area—On February 18, 1956 Keith Anderson (25), accompanied by two other climbers, attempted to climb one of the outcrops near the summit of Mt. Tamalpais. With a lower belay he led up a wide chimney to an overhang. At...

Mount McKinley. Aside from the ascent made by the Germans, which is reported on elsewhere in this Journal, Mount McKinley was ascended on July 12 via the West Buttress route by Seymour Ossofsky, Barbara Lilley, Michael E. Hiehle, Edward Lane, Arke...

FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING ALONE AND UNROPED, NO HARD HAT, EXCEEDING ABILITIES Arizona, Bell Rock, North FaceAccording to witnesses, the young man (23) was in a hurry to get to the top of this rock and was seen almost “running” up the side toward the ...

Peaks and Passes of the Garhwal Himalaya. Jan Babicz. Alpinistyczny Klub Eksploracyjny, ul Armii Krajowej 12, Sopot, Poland, 1991. 246 pages, ridgeline maps, numerous drawings of peaks with routes marked, topos. Available postpaid from Jan Babicz,...

Whistler Mountain, Southeast Rib. On September 1 Barry Nelson and I climbed a rib of good-to-rotten rock on Whistler. A nice layback and face-climbing pitch led to several pitches of scrambling up unstable rock. NCCSI, F7.Alan Kearney