Tirich Mir and Other peaks. Mine was a one-man enterprise, based on the fact that I knew that in this region there were other expeditions, with which I could participate; as for geology and exploration, it was as well to be alone. I climbed peaks ...
Chuquichanca and Pomachanca, Cordillera Vilcanota. This is to amplify a note in AAJ 1972, p. 176. Mary Fulford, Fay Kerr, Esme Speakman and four other tramping friends from England set off from Limacpuncu on August 8, 1971, to the Kira Kira valley...
Number of Accidents ReportedTotal Persons InvolvedInjuredFatalitiesUSACANUSACANUSACANUSACAN195115221131952313517131953242712121954314131819553439286195646725413195745532818195832392311195942256231019219604746412378194196149961144510144196271190164...
Shawangunk Rock Climbs, by Richard C. Williams. New York: The American Alpine Club, 1980. 463 pages, 102 photographs, appendices. Price $14.50.The new guidebook had a tough act to follow. Almost everyone agrees that the 1972 edition of Shawangunk ...
Reported Mountaineering AccidentsNumber of Accidents ReportedTotal of Persons InvolvedInjuredKilledYearUSA-CANUSA-CANUSA-CANUSA-CAN195115221131952313517131953242712121954314131819553439286195646725413195745532818195832392311195942— 256— 231— 019— ...
Annapurna, South Face Attempt. [The Bulgarian expedition failed to climb Annapurna’s south face by the Polish route in the winter, as described briefly in A.A.J., 1986 on p. 293.] Their ambitious plan for climbing both Annapurna and Dhaulagiri in ...
FALL ON SNOW–FAULTY USE OF CRAMPONS Oregon, Mount JeffersonOn Sunday morning, April 25, Brent McGregor (51) and Tom Herron (40) began a climb of Mount Jefferson. McGregor and his climbing partner had started their climb at 3:00 a.m. Sunday but did...
Lion, Central, Kulu. Lion (20,100 feet) was climbed by its west face on June 27 by an expedition of Calcutta’s Institute of Exploration led by Sanatan Bhattacharya. The summiters were Nitai Roy, Kesab Mukherjee, Asit Roy, Asit Moitra, and Sherpas ...
PHILIP C. BETTLER 1917-1979Philip Bettler, a longtime member of the American Alpine Club, died of cancer on June 29, 1979. Phil joined the Club in February of 1949 and maintained an enthusiastic interest in the Sierra Nevada Section for the next 3...
50 Years of Alpinism. Riccardo Cassin. Diadem Books Ltd., London and The Mountaineers, Seattle, 1982. 207 pages, black and white photographs, diagrams, maps. $17.50.Riccardo Cassin has written a masterpiece of an autobiography—possibly the most im...
An American TyrolClimbs in the Big Horns, 1933W. B. WillcoxMOUNTAINEERS seem to have overlooked the Big Horns. The; region has long been a roaming ground for geologists, and for the dude-ranchers of northern Wyoming; but hitherto it has rarely bee...
Bahia Murta Region. Between December 30, 2001, and January 12, 2002, David Wood and I climbed several unclimbed summits in the Tres Arroyos region near the small Chilean town of Bahia Murta. This area offers extensive climbing on heavily glaciated...
During our two-week stay in Oman, Marc Kuhn and I climbed one possible new route on the north side of Jabal Asala. Initially we wanted to repeat Petit Journée (D+ F5/5+, Frédéric and Magali Salle), but we had no proper route description and only a...
FALL ON ROCK, PLACED INADEQUATE PROTECTION, FAILURE TO TEST HOLDS SUFFICIENTLY Washington, Mount IndexOn July 11, 1987, the climb to the summit of the North Peak of Mount Index and the descent to the North-Middle Peak Notch had gone as planned and...
Gangstang, Lahul. Our 12-man expedition set up Base Camp on August 1 at 14,000 feet, three kilometers from the head of the Billing Nala. We established Camps I, II and III at 16,500, 17,750 and 18,700 feet on August 4, 5 and 6. Between Camps I and...
FALL ON ROCKWyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Garnet CanyonOn July 22 at 1445, Teton Dispatch forwarded a cellphone caller to me. John Coombs who told me that Eva Bell (22) a member of his party, had fallen and tumbled approximately 80 to 100 fe...
Split Thumb, Juneau Ice Field. Looking northeast from camp 16-A on the Lemon Glacier, one sees the intriguing rock sentinel of the Split Thumb (5523 feet), rising near the western periphery of the Juneau Ice Field. The first ascent of this peak wa...
Aguja Guillaumet (2,579m), west face, Patagonian Werewolfs. Back in Chalten, after all my compatriots from Poincenot had left, I befriended a Brazilian, Marcos Costa. Just before we were due to depart (I had a ticket to Calafate for March 10) ther...
Ama Dablam. On April 4, Irishman Brendan Murphy and British Kate Phillips completed the 73rd ascent of Ama Dablam by the well-trodden southwest ridge. On April 12, two other British climbers, leader Ray Delaney and Joe Simpson also reached the top...
AVALANCHE, CLIMBING ALONE, POOR POSITIONNew Hampshire, Mount Washington, Huntington Ravine, Odell GullyAt 9:20 p.m. on January 18 the USFS Snow Rangers were informed that a solo climber (39-male) from Lewiston, ME, was overdue from his climb in Hu...