Thoughts About EverestStacy Allison and Geoffrey TabinMY FIRST EXPOSURE to the great Himalayan peaks was on the 1982 American Women’s Himalayan Expedition to Ama Dablam’s Southwest Ridge. As I stood atop Ama Dablam, I had my first glimpse of Evere...
Jannu, north face, new route summary. The historic climb in the Nepalese Himalaya during the pre-monsoon season was the successful ascent and descent by a direct route via the north face of Jannu by aRussian team (with one Kyrgyzstani member) led ...
Mountains of Northern AlaskaThe general name, Brooks Range, covers the several mountain groups in Alaska N. of the Arctic Circle. The highest triangulated peaks, now known, are probably Mt. Chamberlin in the Franklin Mts., and Mt. Michelson in the...
Dawa Peak, north face, first ascent of Snotty’s Gully. Jon Bracey and I landed in Lukla on October 6. Four days later we arrived at base camp, which in our case was Gokyo Resort Lodge situated at 4,800m. Day five was spent stashing gear beneath th...
A Fine Conditioning Climb. “Park your car, walk a mile, and enjoy 5000 ft. of arduous, constantly exposed climbing”—such is the invitation offered by the N. Face of Mt. Johannesberg. I have accepted the invitation twice, and spent 32 and 31 hours ...
Forget Me Not: A Memoir, Jennifer Lowe-Anker. Seattle: The Mountaineers Books, 2008. Eight pages of black and white photos. 276 pages.Hardcover. $24.95.When I picked up Forget Me Not, I anticipated a mediocre book with adequate writing and a one-d...
The Impala. The Impala is the sloping pyramid of about 12,100 feet just above and west of Lower Boy Scout Lake in the Lone Pine Creek area. The face is about 500 feet high. The first ascent was made in June directly up the south face by Brad Fowle...
Lohtse. Five Spanish Basques and one South Korean sent the first Spanish citizens to the top of Lhotse (8516 meters). Two members of the party, Felix and Alberto Inurrategi, who often climb together and never use bottled oxygen, had successfully (...
Galen Avery Rowell 1940-2002In the early hours of August 11 we lost one of our most energetic and influential mountaineers and photographers when Galen Avery Rowell died in a plane crash. His wife Barbara also was killed, as was the pilot and a th...
As the gales of November whipped and thrashed my fragile nylon tether, I felt like a lone sailor out at sea. But the sea I explored consisted of solid blue ice, and I sailed with a kite connected to my harness, skis, and sled. I had come to reco...
In late autumn 2009, Yan Dongdong from China joined Guy McKinnon (New Zealand) and me for a three-man attempt on attractive 6,000+m summits accessed from the Langbu Qu, the third valley system west of Nyanchen Tanglha Main (7,162m). At the time we...
Grand Teton, North Face, Direct Variation. In recent years it has been recognized by several climbers that the standard north face route on the Grand Teton is geometrically “direct” only in the upper portion, from the Third Ledge to the summit. Th...
Number of Accidents ReportedTotal Number of Persons InvolvedInjuredKilledYearUSA-CAN.USA-CAN.USA-CAN.USA-CAN.195115221131952313517131953242712121954314131819553439286195646725413195745532818195832392311195942— 256— 231— 019— 2196047— 464— 1237— 81...
Choquesafra, Cordillera Vilcabamba. Jiramane, Ayachincana, Allinccapac, and other peaks, Cordillera Carabaya and Vilcanota. In order to reach Cordillera Vilcabamba from the south I crossed the Apurimac (3300 feet) at Pasaje Hacienda, entered the d...
Desecration of the Diamir Base CampSigi Hupfauer, Charles S. Houston and Christian BoningtonNINETY-FIVEYEARS AGO, A.F. Mummery, arguably the founder of modem mountaineering, crossed the Mazeno Pass from the Rudiamir Pal valley and was probably the...
François Matthes and the Marks of Time. Yosemite and the High Sierra. Edited by Fritiof Fryxell. San Francisco: Sierra Club, 1962. 189 pages; ills. Price $7.50.François Matthes knew mountains with an understanding that few of us can ever attain. T...
Quebrada Honda, Cordillera Blanca. A party from Johannesburg, South Africa, consisting of J. H. Graafland, Frank Kleine, F. G. Petousis and me, spent four weeks in this area. Base Camp was at Pucaranracocha. On July 13 all members walked up the pe...
California, Sierra Nevada, Banner Peak. (See accident report.) The rockfall, followed by Elliotts moans, alerted Ellena and climber Bill Sundlad who was returning from Mt. Ritter. After locating Elliott, they stripped themselves of available cloth...
Note on Map of the Marcapata Valley. The little map of the Marcapata Valley is a highly preliminary form of an extension of Carta Nacional 1:200,000, sheet 14 j (Sicuani) of 1939/40, intended for illustration of the preceding account and of an ear...
FALLING ROCK- DISLODGED BY DAY-PACK, POOR POSITIONCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, Cathedral RocksOn August 12, Sarah Sand (59) and eight friends started up the Gunsight, the class 4-5 gully between Middle and Lower Cathedral Rocks. David (58), the le...