In early March, Jeremy Aslaksen and I explored the virtually unclimbed east face of the Titan in the Fisher Towers. The only route on the face is an old Jim Beyer route, World’s End, which climbs the extreme left margin. After climbing f...
Ascent of Mount La PerouseJames F. SeitzAS part of our job last summer five of us had the pleasant task of climbing Mount La Perouse, a previously unclimbed mountain in the Fairweather Range, Alaska. We were members of a U. S. Geological Survey pa...
Vampire Spire, Nosferatu. It was about 4:30 in the afternoon when the three of us reached the oddly sloping ledge 100m from the summit of Vampire Spire. “No one’s ever set foot on this ledge before,” I observed as I crunched across the lichen-encr...
The Logan Mountains, 1960William J. BuckinghamTHE INTERIOR of the Yukon Territory and the western portion of the Northwest Territory of Canada is a vast wilderness studded with mountain ranges, few of which have attracted much attention in climbin...
Himalayan Fatalities, 1986. I have read with considerable interest the pages devoted to the Himalaya. On the basis of these reports, there seem to have been 44 deaths in 1986. That in itself may not seem noteworthy related to the overall number of...
Expeditions to Nowhere. Paddy Sherman. The Mountaineers. Seattle, 1981. 226 pages, black-and-white photographs, maps. $14.95.Care to travel far and fast? Then read Expeditions to Nowhere, a summary account of expeditions undertaken during two deca...
La Mascara, Ilusiones, New Route. Eva Martos, Diego Pelaez, and I got to Torres del Paine National Park on January 8. We arrived later than expected, so we lost some time trying to get the permits. We had to leave our climbing gear at the entrance...
Huaytapallana I and Huaytapallana II, east summit, first ascents. I first spotted the climbing potential at the top of Quebrada Rajaruri, southwest of the Huandoy Group, in 2006 while on a day trek with my wife. In 2007 Jim Sykes and I made the fi...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, MISUSE OF EQUIPMENT (GRIGRI), NO HARD HATCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, Half DomeOn September 14, a clear day, Bela Christopher (Chris) Fehrer (35) was solo climbing the slab route when he fell 100 to 150 feet to...
California, Mt. Whitney area. On 29 May Jeff Genest and Larry Hamilton (20), started from Whitney Portals (8,360 feet) at 0600 with the intention of climbing the buttress of Mt. Whitney. They had started from home at sea level and driven all night...
FATIGUE, EXPOSURE, WEATHER, CARBON MONOXIDE Alaska, Mount Marcus BakerOn December 28, 1987, Sylvia Lane (28), Frank Jenkins (38) (see ANAM, 1988, p. 19), and John Cafmeyer (32) left Chugiak for a winter ascent of Mount Marcus Baker, a massive 4500...
Winter Madness and Joy— Mount Hunter in WinterGary BocardeWINTER ASCENTS of high mountains in Alaska can be a mixture of absurdity and attractiveness. Daylight is in very short supply, and the nights are endless, especially in an exposed bivouac. ...
JUMPED INTO CREVASSE‚ AND THEN LATER FELL IN CAMP WHILE URINATINGCalifornia, Mount Shasta, Hotlum Glacier and in CampOn August 15, a 28-year-old male climber was hurt when he jumped into a shallow crevasse on the Hotlum Glacier at around 11,400 fe...
The West Ridge to LoganBoyd N. Everett, Jr.DURING June and July of 1966 the St. Elias Mountains had unprecedented good weather — some say the best this region has ever had. I can not dispute this statement. Of the twenty-nine days we were on Mount...
More About the Santa MartaElizabeth S. CowlesTHOSE who have read accounts of the Cabot Expedition to the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta will recall that unique range in which its members made mountaineering history. Located in the northeastern bulge...
WEATHER, FALL INTO CREVASSE - SNOW BRIDGE FAILEDBritish Columbia, Purcell Mountains, International MountainI was guiding two clients on a ski mountaineering traverse from the Bugaboos to Rogers Pass with the help of an assistant guide. On April 16...
It was Stuart McAleese and my 15th day climbing on the face. The December winds regularly gusted 100mph. The climbing, 800m above the glacier, was becoming markedly easier. Our summit was tantalizingly close. One good day and only 300m of 35° sn...
DAKERS Gowans woke Keith )Hansen and me at one A.M. The weather is clear. After the normal struggle with stiff boots, we groggily emerge to find a magnificent aurora glowing incandescently in the northern sky. A good omen, I hope; yet no soon...
The last few yards my screaming lungs could not keep up as I raced to the summit snow, capping Mount Hunter. Hunter, little brother to Mount McKinley, towered over a vast landscape of rock and snow. McKinley would have bested Hunter by 600...
In September our Czech-Slovak expedition visited two areas of the southern Altai. We first traveled to the Taban Bogdo on the border with northwest Mongolia. Immediately north of Huiten, which forms the triple border point of Russia, Mongolia, and...