Chari Khand. Nasir Ali and I with two Hunza porters made a short attempt on Chari Khand (19,300 feet) from the Naltar valley north of Gilgit in November 1955. The only route appearing feasible was to try to gain the upper reaches of the glacier on...
Qioqe Peninsula, West Greenland. The second Hessian Greenland Expedition with eight men and my wife Anne left Frankfurt by air on June 27 for Søndre Strømfjord. We continued by helicopter to Umanak, where a fishing boat was chartered. We climbed f...
Colorado—Stonewall Canyon, near Fort Collins: On April 6, 1952, Dr. R. H. Udall fell 20 feet breaking his right leg and suffering internal injuries. The cause of the accident was a rappel point which gave way. This point had been chosen and the ro...
Laupers Bjerg. Iain Macdonald, Adam Hyne, Neil Smith and I left the UK on July 17. Making use of plane, helicopter and boat, we arrived at the head of Tasilaq Fjord (66°06') on the east coast of Greenland four days later. A seven-day ski-and-pulka...
FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING UNROPED, INADEQUATE FOOTWEARCalifornia, Yosemite ValleyOn July 18, Amy Khoo (19), Matthew Enu (24) and a newly met climbing partner, Joey Chiarucci (26) were using technical climbing equipment to climb the lower Yosemite Fal...
Iskander, South Face, New Route. A. Zhiltsov led a Tatarstan Republic team of N. Akifiev and A. Akhmadiev on a new route on the south face of Iskander (5120m) from July 20-25. The south face of Iskander is a ca. 800-meter granite buttress with ove...
The year 2006 marked the 60th anniversary of the formation of the famous Italian climbing club, Ragni di Lecco (Lecco Spiders). Five members visited the Hombori region in December as part of the celebrations. In three weeks of climbing Cesare Buga...
A.A.C., Cascade Section. Despite 1957’s undependable weather in the Northwest, several members completed noteworthy climbs during the summer. In particular, three routes on Mount Rainier were ascended for the first time. A party that included Fred...
Fitz Roy Climbed by a Woman in Winter. On June 17, Erica Beuzenberg and Gottlieb Braun-Elwert from New Zealand completed the fourth winter ascent of Fitz Roy. They followed the Supercanaleta. Because of unusually good weather clear sky and no wind...
Nanda Kot. An Indian expedition led by Miss Chandra Prabha Aitwal climbed Nanda Kot (6861 meters, 22,510 feet). Details are missing.
Attempt on Mount McKinley. Dr. George Cloutier, Gary Kenwood, Henry Marshall and Theodore Anderson reached 17,000 feet on the west buttress route of Mount McKinley before being turned back by adverse weather. After being airlifted to the Kahiltna ...
Hagshu Attempt. Britons John Barry and John Romo set up their Base Camp on September 12 in bad weather. They attempted the peak by the north gully but bad weather defeated them. (Apparently, the first ascent of Hagshu was made by Poles several yea...
Denbor Brakk (4,800m), southwest face, Bloody Mary. In July, after a period of bad weather in the valley, Vasek Satava and Pavel Jonak packed their gear and found themselves at the southwest face of Denbor Brakk (Nangma Valley). They then attempte...
Thui I, Hindu Raj. Our expedition was composed of Hideo Mutoh, Yasumi Narita, Miss Kimiko Nakamura, Hiroshi Yanagi, Miss Akemi Takei, Masayuki Nakanishi, Pakistani liaison officer Major Shaukat Hayat and me as leader. We approached via Chitral, Ma...
Annapurna South Face Attempt and Near Tragedy. Franc Knez and Slavko Sveticic attempted to complete the route on the south face of Annapurna previously tried by Beghin and Lafaille. Accompanied by Andreja Knez, they left on August 23 and a few day...
Citadel, Capricorn, Southern Section. On August 3 Kristian (Del) Langbauer and I landed by float-plane on the west end of Lonely Lake. We made new routes on the east ridge of Citadel (NCCS III, F7) and the north ridge of Capricorn (NCCS IV, F8, A2...
Mount Forel Attempt. The Isortoq-Mount Forel Kuummiut '95 Expedition consisted of Jan Mila (Norway) Nels Niemi (Alaska) and Hans Christian Florian (Greenland). The objective was to travel in the previously unexplored area from Isortoq to Mount For...
PETER LIMMER, JR.1920–2000While not a member of the American Alpine Club, Peter, as assistant to his late father and with the help of his late brother, Francis, shod scores of us. Born in Vachendorf, Bavaria, a small town he would describe as bein...
Mount Buckner, North Couloir Correction. Walter R. Gove points out that he, John Holland and three teenagers whose names he does not remember in August 1967 climbed the north couloir of Mount Buckner but did not report it. This was given in A.A.J....
Haystack Mountain. On September 10 Mike Ermarth and I completed the first three leads in the obvious crack which goes vertically up the center of the huge west face of Haystack Mountain, all fourth class; we left one fixed rope. The crack, which w...