Mount Mitchell, Northwest Face, Cirque of the Towers, Wind River Range. Molly Higgins and I made this climb, starting on the far right side of the northwest face. It is easily identified by a slab that leads to a straight one-inch crack in a right...
Charm School Boutique, repeat. Between The Journey Home and The Cruise on North Chasm View Wall, Jeff Achey found an improbable line called Charm School Boutique (5.12 A2+; AAJ 2004, pp. 180-181). In May, Steve Monks and I free-climbed it, with th...
Mounts Logan, Steele, Wood, Augusta and Upton, Icefield Ranges. During the 1987 climbing season there were 14 groups that climbed in the Icefield Ranges, as well as five that skied. Most of the expeditions were on Mount Logan. Canadians Steve Lang...
Shipton Spire, East Face. Charles Boyd, Greg Child, Greg Collum, and I arrived in Islamabad the first week of June. Our good friend, Gullam Rasoul, traveled for several days from his home village of Hushe to meet us and help us go through the absu...
This is the nineteenth report of the Safety Committee and the sixth in conjunction with the Alpine Club of Canada. A number of accidents that had not been previously reported or included in the statistics have come to the attention of the Committe...
STRANDED, PARTY SEPARATED, MISCOMMUNICATION, EXCEEDING ABILITIES Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount RundleA. and T. (30) began the ascent of the southeast end of Mount Rundle on Wednesday morning, April 8, 1983, with the intention of traversing the ...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE BELAY/ANCHORBritish Columbia, Squamish, Stawamus Chief, ExasperaterD.G. (41) fell 30 meters to his death while rock climbing on the Stawamus Chief on May 31. D.G. was an experienced climber who was roped into a harness at ...
Mount Everest, Winter Ascent. The Japanese Lhotse expedition mentioned above, led by Kazuyuki Takahashi, acclimatized by making the successful ascent of that peak. They then climbed Everest by the South Col. On December 16 Takashi Ozaki, Noboru Ya...
Heiss-Spitz (13,251 ft.) was the next first ascent accomplished by Messrs. Long and Nelson. This mountain is not in the Grenadier Range proper—it lies to the south across the valley of Ten-mile Creek. Its ascent was not particularly difficult.
Everest, Winter Attempt, 1984-5. A 13-man South Korean expedition attempted to climb Mount Everest by the South Col route. The leader was Oh In-Hwan. The highest point reached was 7850 meters, about an hour below the South Col, which was to be the...
North of Scorsbysund, Liverpool Land exploratory ski-moun- taineering. We aimed to investigate the ski potential of the coastal peaks of northeast Greenland. Liverpool Land was chosen for its interesting geography, high latitude, and relative acce...
Spitsberen, Various Activity. Spitsberen is a group of islands north of Norway (78°N); Longyearbien is the capital. They were originally discovered in the 17th century and used as a base on a number of attempts on the North Pole by Nansen and othe...
Cashan Este, Southwest Ridge. An Andes [commercial group] expedition, led by Martin Akhurst, was in the Cordillera Blanca in June. Between June 23-25 they made an ascent of Cashan Este (5,716m) by the southwest ridge (from the col with Shacsha). A...
LOSS OF CONTROL—VOLUNTARY GLISSADE, UNROPEDWyoming, TetonsOn July 7, 1984, Jean Nuetzel (29) was walking down Hanging Canyon Trail with an injured hand when I made contact with her. She explained that she had been practicing self-arrest with an ic...
High Drama Mountain Rescue Stories from Four Continents. Hamish MacInnes. The Mountaineers, Seattle, 1981. 208 pages, black and white photographs, maps. $12.95.
Mount Brooks. On June 14 Mark Bondurant, Reinhold Seyde and I reached the summit of Mount Brooks (11,940 feet). On June 11 we left Oastler Pass, crossed the Muldrow Glacier and climbed up the north ridge on loose rock and snow to 7000 feet. After ...
FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUT, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, LOOSE ROCK Colorado, Pikes PeakOn August 30, 1986, Richard Andrews (42) was climbing a 15 meter pitch on Tenny Crags. He was belayed by his daughter (13). He was two to three meters above...
Nanga Parbat Attempt. The French couple, Liliane and Maurice Barrard, did not succeed in getting to the summit of Nanga Parbat in June, but they made a variant on the Diamir route. They climbed a gully and couloir to the left of the usual route an...
Autana Tepui, first ascent of southern aspect. This tepui, 400 miles south of Caracas in the Orinocan jungle, was climbed in March by a team of aid climbers and another of free climbers. The route up the southeast face was 2,400', 25 pitches. It w...
Das Buch vom Wilden Kaiser, by Fritz Schmitt. 328 pages, with 24 illustrations. Salzburg: Verlag “Das Bergland Buch,” 1953. Price, $4.00.As an example of what a regional book for mountaineers should be, this can scarcely be excelled. These peaks, ...