Mt. McKinley, Zanto’s Riches. Torrey Riches and I summited the North Peak of Denali on May 15, via the Northwest Buttress. We spent 11 days acclimatizing on the West Buttress and three days climbing the Northwest Buttress. Our original plan was to...
While planning a trip to remote Tower Peak (11,755'), on the northern border of Yosemite National Park, my interest shifted to an unnamed subpeak ¾-mile north, locally called the Watchtower or Watchtower Peak (10,820'). My research found no ...
Climbing: The Complete Reference. Compiled by Greg Child. Facts on File, New York, 1995. 264 pages, 60 photographs. $39.95.This is a schizophrenic encyclopedia. It seems, at first glance, to be a valuable collection of fascinating and relevant mat...
Dhaulagiri IV. Unsuccessful post-monsoon parties have sometimes, while blaming the bad weather for their failure, explained that virtually no gap occurred between the ending of the monsoon and the onset of the winter snows. Certainly the weather i...
Lidanda Peak, on the Northeast Ridge of Himalchuli. The expedition of the Royal Netherlands Alpine Club consisted of a trekking group and a mountaineering party. Its original aim was to climb P III (“Dakura”), the last elevation of the long east r...
Hayes Glacier, various ascents. From April 30 to May 15 Uwe Nootbaar, Thomas Speck, and I made four first ascents on unclimbed peaks or points and climbed Mt. Gerdine (11,258', fifth ascent) by a partly new route. The peaks are shown on the USGS T...
FALL ON SNOW, INEXPERIENCE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, FAILURE TO FOLLOW ROUTEWyoming, TetonsOn July 26, 1981, Keith Walton (27), a relatively inexperienced climber, made a solo ascent of the Southwest Couloir on the Middle Teton. Descending the same r...
The Alps, by R. L. G. Irving. 120 pages and 130 photographs. New York: Charles Scribner’s Sons; London: B. T. Batsford, Ltd., 1940. Price $3.00.In this small book, illustrated with numerous fine photographs of a loved and familiar region, Mr. Irvi...
Mount Hunter, North Face Attempt. An attempt was made on the north face of Mount Hunter by Charles Fuselier, Laura Johnson, Joan Nester, Guy Waterman and me in May. An unusually heavy snow fall occurred during the winter of 1970-71 which may have ...
When we first saw Saser Kangri, in 2001, we didn’t even know its name. My partner Mark Wilford and I snapped a few photographs of four massive mountains to the north as we shivered that early dawn in our high bivouac on Yamandaka (AAJ 2002). Lat...
The Tragedies on the Grand TetonOn the afternoon of July 7th, 1934, Chris Duehlmeier called at Jenny Lake Ranger Station to express anxiety concerning the safety of two friends, Fred Ohlendorf and Helmuth Leese, who had not returned from a mountai...
Unnamed Peaks, Western Truce Group. Lured by unclimbed peaks in the western Truce Group, Gretchen Schoenbohm and I joined Bruce Beck in an attempt to climb two peaks called “X” and “Y” by Beck. Beck had made ascents of two unclimbed peaks in the a...
Pt. 6,000' of Mt. Yukla, The History of Things to Come, and The Positive Side of Negative Thinking. After many failed attempts, with several partners, I finally got up two new routes this winter, 2006, on the northwest face of Mount Yukla (7,535')...
ROLAND PALMEDO 1896-1977Roland was better known in ski mountaineering than in technical climbing circles. His activity in developing interest in skiing during the 1930s was exceeded by no one, probably not even equaled. In the incorporation of The...
Baltoro Kangri on Skis. Baltoro Kangri, formerly called the Golden Throne, has five distinct summits, the highest of which is 23,880 feet. It was climbed by Japanese in 1963 and 1976 from the Duke of Abruzzi Glacier via the prominent col to the ea...
This My Voyage, by Tom Longstaff. 324 pages, with 23 illustrations and 14 sketch maps. London: John Murray, 1950. Price, 21/-.This remarkable book of adventuring is the autobiography of a recent past-president of the Alpine Club who is still going...
The Committee thinks it desirable, before making specific recommendations, to point out certain conditions pertaining to mountaineering in our time which may have had unfortunate effects. These comments are not based exclusively on the foregoing l...
Frontier Group, various climbs. In the Frontier Group of the Waddington Range, Bob Hamilton, Billy Hood, Neil McGougan, Dave Ritchie, and we did several climbs, all except one of which (Bottleneck) we believe to be new. Our thanks to Don Serl and ...
LOSS OF CONTROL—VOLUNTARY GLISSADE, INEXPERIENCECalifornia, Mount MalloyOn a Sierra Club trip to Mt. Malloy on July 21, 1985, a woman (35) was unable to self arrest a sitting glissade in soft snow down a 30 degree chute while descending the mounta...
Mountaineers. The Mountaineers enjoyed a successful year in 1949. Membership is now almost 2000, with the main group in Seattle and smaller branches in Tacoma and Everett. Activities range from musicales, old-time dances and a yearly outdoor play ...