Cho Oyu Attempt. Matt Baker, Ney Grant, Ron Reno, Kirk Swanson, Dr. Rich Gerhauser and I as leader, accompanied by Base Camp helpers Sue Baker, John Bell and Mona Livingston, attempted the so-called traditional “southwest” ridge route from Nepal, ...
An Unrealized HazardA Sermon for Mountaineers*Frank E. GaebeleinIN the little town of Moose, Wyoming, there is a log chapel. A small building, it is known far and wide, because behind the altar there is a spacious window through which the worshipp...
THE High Sierra has two outstanding big-wall climbs: the west face of Mount Conness (12,590 feet) and the east face of Keeler Needle (14,300 feet). Both faces were first ascended by parties led by Warren Harding in successive years after his ...
Tsaranoro Massif, Various Ascents. Just after the departure of the Polish group (see above), the six-member Slovak group of Alexander Buzinkay, Ivan Doskocil, Vladimir Linek, Rado Staruch, Rasto Simko (as a climbing cameraman) and Ivan Stefansky c...
Cololo, Palomani Grande, Huanacuni and Nubi, Cordillera Apolobamba. David Tyson, Pamela Holt and I climbed on both sides of the Peruvian-Bolivian border during August. We had Base Camp for two weeks at the head of Lago Nubi, from which we climbed ...
Valle Pirita, Pirita Right, Voces en la Noche. While exploring in 2008, Josh Beckner glimpsed a large granite wall in Argentina’s remote Pirita Valley of the upper Rio Turbio drainage. On February 26,2009, Beckner, Jared Spaulding, and I crossed L...
Naming America’s Mountains—The CascadesFrancis P. FarquharThe Cascade Range is defined by the United States Geographic Board (Sixth Report, 1933) as "limited on the south by the gap south of Lassen Peak and extending northward into British Columbi...
A High-level Glacier Route from Jasper to FieldOne of the features of classical mountaineering in the Alps was the development of the high-level route between Chamonix and Zermatt. As originally laid down by Jacomb,1 in 1862, this required four da...
Kumbhakarna (Jannu) Attempt. On September 25, Rob Mahoney, Kevin O’Meara and I established Base Camp at 15,000 feet on the Yamatari Glacier on the south side of Kumbhakarna. On October 1, we moved to Camp I at 17,000 feet. Camp II was established ...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, OVERCONFIDENCEColorado, DurangoAfter 17 years of rock climbing, bad judgment finally caught up with me. Don’t let it happen to you. Climbing near Durango, I was on a route well within my ability and moved about...
Nanga Parbat, First Ladies-Only Ascent. The first all-woman expedition to Nanga Parbat successfully climbed the mountain. The party consisted of Poland’s top women climbers: Dobroslawa Wolf, Anna Czerwinska, Krystyna Palmowska and Wanda Rutkiewicz...
Berchtesgadener Alpen, a collection of articles, issued by the German Alpenverein. 232 pages, with 100 illustrations, and a sketch map. Munich: Bruckmann, 1950.Certainly very few mountains in the world have been so intensively climbed over as the ...
Agujas Saint Exupery, Rafael Juarez, and Poincenot, traverse. Beginning on February 18 Jonny Copp and I enchained Saint Exupery, Aguja Rafael Juarez, and Aguja Poincenot in a 52-hour roundtrip from Polacos high camp. After oversleeping we left Pol...
California, Yosemite, Washington Column. On 4 September Ralph Love (36), and Rex Allen Spaith, Jr., were attempting the South Face of Washington Column. Ralph led the pitch off Dinner Ledge, and was at the base of the roof, trying to figure out ho...
This is the twenty-seventh annual Report of the Safety Committee of the American Alpine Club and the fourteenth in conjunction with the Alpine Club of Canada. Its publication was delayed by human frailties; the Committee expects to do better next ...
AVALANCHE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, POOR POSITION, FAILURE TO HEED FORECAST British Columbia, Rocky Mountains, Mount Field, Silk Tassel FallsOn February 2, 1992, two parties of two set out for Silk Tassel, a grade 4 ice climb near the Trans-Canada Hi...
Mount Huntington-West FaceDavid S. RobertsIT was darker than dusk. The two of us stood in the gloom of Alaskan midnight on the last day of July. Ed said, "How do you feel?”"Pretty tired. I feel I’m getting overcautious. How about you?”"No,” he ans...
Bright StarEdward WebsterBright star, would I were steadfast as thou art— Not in lone splendor hung aloft the night And watching, with eternal lids apart,Like nature’s patient, sleepless Eremite,The moving waters at their priestlike task of pure a...
Fitz Roy, Guided Ascent. Possibly for the first time, a client was guided on a major Patagonian route. In the 1992-3 season, Italian guide Marcello Cominetti first hoped to lead Cesare Sartori up the Maestri Compressor Route on Cerro Torre, but th...
Early in the day on May 25, several groups went for a summit attempt from the 17,200-foot camp. The Alpine Ascents guide stopped by the NPS tent to let Rangers know that they would be attempting to summit. At 2315, NPS volunteer Mik Jedlicka ...